Coyote

Thanks for the tips on the speedo and tcase linkage.

Didn't think about that. That's exactly the type of gotcha info I needed. I'd assume that I'd need the RENIX style TV cables. Should be easy enough to figure out when both tranny's are out next to each other. Looks like the NSS is the same for '88-'96 so I should be in luck. Will look at both plugs later tonight.

That link is money. Exactly what I needed to know. Thank you.

Thank you. 😁

***DISCLAIMER*** Before I get flamed for asking a question, I have done a general search of all sections and looked through all 19 pages of the DIY section and can't find what I'm looking for. Closest thing I could find was an '88 Eliminator 2.5 manual 4*4 conversion, but that just links back to the index page and does me no good. Maybe I'm using the wrong terms? If so I apologize, please point me to the right link. ***DISCLAIMER*** I have a '88 Eliminator 4.0 AW4 2wd (no lift or suspension mods). I'm trying to convert it to 4 wd. I have a running '92 Cherokee 4.0 AW4 4 wd (242 transfer case, also no suspension mods). The plan is to take the AW4 and 242 out of the Cherokee and bolt it up to the 4.0 (RENIX) in the Comanche. Not interested in using the 4.0 HO engine, my 4.0 RENIX is running strong 😁 I already have a AW4 in the Comanche so it should be the correct crossmember. I understand it'll need a new longer speedo cable and I may have some problems with the 4*4 shifter (read Novak cable shifter has issues). The front drive shaft should be fine, but I'll need a new rear drive shaft. Is it really as simple as bolting up the new tranny and transfer case to my engine? The front axle should be a piece of cake. Looks like a straight one for one swap. Only issue may be the flex brake lines to the newer calipers. The whole thing looks pretty simple. Am I missing something? Trying to make sure I have all of the parts before tearing into anything. Nothing like running into a surprise on Sunday night when your truck is scattered in parts across the garage floor 😂

Has the filter ever been changed? Don't laugh, alot of people just drain the fluid and refill without ever actually changing the filter. The filter and gasket are pretty cheap, it's the 9 qts of tranny fluid that gets expensive. If you're going to drop the pan and change the filter, go ahead and replace the solenoids at the same time. They come in a 3 pack with upgraded grounds. Made my '88 shift smooth as silk.

Found a solution to the sun visor clips. Ordered a new set of 93 -98 Jeep Grand Cherokee sun visor clips off of eBay for less than $20 delivered. They are an 1/8" wider and 1/8" shorter than Comanche clips and you'll have to cut the back plastic prong flush. Took less than 10 mins to modify and install both clips. Not a perfect fit but definitely functional and don't require any mod to the truck/mounting plate. They'll keep my sun visors from flopping around until I'm lucky enough to stumble across that gray factory Comanche sunvisor clip unicorn in the junk yard. 😁

Thank you. Didn't realize there was an option for overhead console, mine doesn't have one. Just thinking, but if there's an over console option I'd assume it would be the same one the XJ Cherokees use. If that's the case it may be possible for me to get my hands on an entire overhead console and sun visors assembly. Has anyone done this or know if the XJ Cherokee overhead consoles and sunvisors are compatible?

Of course there's two different sizes, why would that be standardized? Lol Been striking out on eBay for the clip, but I'll keep trolling. One has to pop up at a decent price sooner or later. If the sun visors are salvageable I'll hit up the headliner guy. At least it would match the headliner.

My sun visors are shot. Not only is the covering bad, but they must have gotten wet at some point. The backing (fiber board?) Is broken in several spots, warped and expanded/coming apart (like fiber board soaked in water). I'm planning on getting the headliner redone and would like new or good sun visors too. Basically the only thing salvageable is the mounting bracket and metal rod. Is something in that shape rebuildable? Or does anyone have a source for sun visors? Also, the driver's side retaining clip is broke. Anyone know where to get one of those?

Going to do the oil pan and rear main in mine in a month or so. I know it's only been a month, but did the carbon paper and Apex seal fix the leak?

I've replaced 2 windshields in a '96 Cherokee and 1 in an '88 Comanche all within the last year. They run $250 each, installed in the middle Georgia area. Not sure what the prices are like in different parts of the country.

Might not be the cause of the over heat, but a clogged heater core definitely won't help. Easy to clear the heater core. Just pop the lines off of it where it goes through the firewall. With low pressure water hose, alternate between the top and bottom tubes until it runs clear (might take multiple times and let it run for a few minutes).

Glad it worked out well for you. I finally got around to doing Cruser's distributor index. My distributor was way off. Strangely it didn't make any difference performance wise, my 0 - 60 times are still the same. My knock sensor went way down (previous 30-50, current 0 - 5) so I assume that means the engine is timed much better now. I'm guessing the ECU was doing a pretty good job of correcting the advance and the MSD multi spark and super coil were making up for the bad factory timing. Lol

Looks super clean. I wish the paint and body was in that good of shape on mine.

Not the same for HO engines, they don't run an ignition control module. Much easier. On the back of the coil (mounted on front passenger side of the engine) there is a two prong weather pack connector. The ECU side is what you use for the MSD ignition pick ups. Use the same white and small red wires as the RENIX , but I don't remember which is positive and negative on the plug. The output side of the MSD box (black and orange wires) will go to the coil, once again I don't remember which is negative or positive. If you want to make it look nice pick up some GM weather proof 2 prong connectors to wire it up. That way you don't even have to cut the factory wires and you can plug it back into the coil if something happens to your MSD box.

If it's being sold as an Eliminator make sure it's actually an Eliminator package (somebody didn't just throw stickers on it like some "Rubicon"). Should have 4.0 and manual or auto, and most importantly full floor console and bucket seats. It may or may not have the Eliminator 10 hole aluminum rims. If in doubt you can run the VIN to check what it came out of the factory as vs what someone did to it.

Good call. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised with the look and performance. I've had 31s on my XJs and TJ with stock gearing and they still had reasonable acceleration and mpg. Once you go to 33s you really need to regear or swap axles and that gets exponentially more expensive and difficult.

Checked the REM this morning and you all were right. The diagnostics and gages only displayes the sensor values. The +/- thing was just for tires, speedo, fuel, wideband and something else (looked like burn rate maybe?). I stand corrected and apologize for causing any confusion. I still think it would be a useful tool if you plan on swapping injectors, using forced induction (MAP/baro readings) or changing spark advance.

I haven't needed to mess with any of the settings yet, but it has +/- settings for short temp and long term fuel trim stuff. Will have to go back and look at it tomorrow and see what else was in there.

Go for it, you won't be disappointed. 😁 It's pretty simple, but if you run into issues pm me and I can walk you through it. I set my rev limiter at 4800. Not sure if that's the ideal setting, but it seemed like a good compromise between red line (5k) and hitting the limiter all the time (4k). Maybe 4500 might be better? 🤷‍♂️ The rev limiter seems to be pretty accurate according to my REM. When the switches are set to 4800, it's 4800 dead on the nose.

I think you hit the nail on the head. The key is to make sure EVERYTHING is operating correctly. I've had 4 clutch fans go out on me over the years (2 different XJs, a TJ and MJ). It's not like the fan just dies over night, it's very invidious. You notice temps start creeping up till one day you realize that you seem to be over heating an awful lot lately.

Ogjeep, Looks good and nice video! I like that classic California low rider look on a mini truck. I've never played with the blocks before. Does that cause any issues with axle wrap? Have you looked at getting a RENIX Engine Monitor (REM)? I have one in mine and love it. If you're planning on adding a turbo you'll need different injectors. A REM makes it real nice to look at/adjust fuel trim, duty cycle, pulse width, ect.

That's a brilliant idea. Is that a regular remote oil filter set up or something specifically made for filtering coolant? It'd be nice if I could get one that used the same filter as the oil filter. I converted mine over to the HO style filter (what ever the threads are on that). I have multiple 4.0 Jeeps and it's easier to just keep one filter in stock for all of them, not accidentally put wrong filter on vehicle.

Thanks for the link. Those are really nice, but $160 is kind of steep. I paid $40 for my LED headlights and they are bright indeed. Maybe it my current ones burn out, crack, etc I'll bite the bullet and swap over to those ones. In the meantime, I'd think you could just tap off the front turn signal and run it to the yellow wire in the headlight. Wouldn't even need to do an LED flasher unless your turn signals were LED too. Not sure what would happen if you run the DRL white LED at the same time you're running the turn signal amber LED, but I don't think it will cause any problems. I'm running a 3 element rear LED tail light (had to replace bad factory sockets) with 2 of the elements acting as brake lights. Together they are very bright and for everyone behind me there is no doubt in their mind that I'm hitting the brakes. Lol