gl1200aman

From what I have seen, The caps made for a specific vehicle mate up better than that. To me it sounds like they bought that cap because it was available, cheap, or both. It all depends on what the person is willing to accept.

A little pricey but it looks like a great comanche. It would be nice if it had air. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-Comanche-4X4-PIckup-All-Original-Long-Bed-/220665619678?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3360b224de

pm sent.

Now that you have solved the overflow problem, once you replace the bottle and cap you can work on the cooling problem in slow / stopped traffic. Earlier you said that you replaced the water pump and thermostat and the fan clutch being weak but did not mention the condition of the radiator or the lower radiator hose. If the radiator is clogged or dirty it can restrict the flow and as posted in another thread if there is no spring in the hose it can sometimes collapse restricting flow. I have an 88 with the 4.0, 5 spd, 4wd, and a/c (not working but connected) and when I replaced my radiator I put in a 2 row core. Mine also has an additional electric fan that was rewired to a toggle switch and had to be on all the time. I reconnected the wiring to the fan sensor so it works automatically. When I hit stop n go traffic in construction or rush hour in 85+ heat my temp gauge dos not go up and the electric fan has not come on yet.

Have you checked all your ground wires?

Maybe stating it a little different will help you understand. The bottle should only get filled half way so that as it heats up and the coolant expands it does not overflow. If the cap is not fitting correctly and loose the system does not work as designed and the coolant begins to boil at 210. Between the lack of pressure and high coolant level your cap is popping off. Until you get the proper fit and working coolant bottle and cap this will continue to happen. You say it takes a little while to heat up and then spikes. You need to remember that when cool it takes a while to heat all that coolant to normal temperature. Once the coolant reaches 210 it does not take long at all to boil over. 70 to 210 is a bigger diff. than 210 to 280. You say the head is cracked. Your symptoms or effects from the crack will vary depending on where the crack is. You may not get oil and water mixed. The compression in the cylinders is way higher than the coolant pressure. Maybe when the motor heats up the crack opens and allows pressure to enter the cooling system. Without thorough testing and maybe tear down you will not know the definite cause and corrective measure but if you continue as you are it may cause more damage that is way worse.

Listing ended with no bids. Hmmmmm yea think it was way over priced? Nice truck but not worth it.

If you have larger tires then your speedometer and odometer are registering less than what you are doing. Depending on what you're difference is you may be getting better mpg. Like the others said, the larger tires are causing your engine to work harder and less mpg.

When you replaced the plugs, did you check the gap?

very nice but also very pricey.

wouldn't the larger 5/16 hole make the walls too thin and allow the walls to crack?

When was the last time you did a tune-up? plugs, wires, rotor, cap? May help. Have you looked at the plugs? The condition of them can tell a lot about how the truck is running. With the reformulated gas, 10% ethanol, it may clog/varnish some parts so you may want to try carb, injector cleaner or seafoam in a few tanks. You need to do some basic checks to see what is going on. My 88 4.0 with 296k 5 spd 4x4 in 2wd gets 20mpg at 65-70 and 21+ at 55-60.

If you have the e-brake adjusted and they don't work that well either it is inside the drum. Pull the wheels and drums and see what you have. Pads or drums may be worn, check to see if the star wheel is working (each turns a different way), or parts missing. There is the flat bar between the pas that may have slipped/fell out.

Have you checked the star-wheel adjuster? That adjusts the bottom of the pads out as they wear. the cable and hydraulics can only move the pads so far and the star-wheel adjusts to compensate.

did you get the right water pump? others have mentioned that there are a clockwise and counterclockwise pump.

It would help if you tell them/us which one. Are you looking for the bottom one screwed to the floor or the top one attaching to the console?

I have not seen any. You will have to try the junk yards or other members. Try posting it in the wanted section.

Valves? Do you mean the complete fuel pump assembly with the sender unit? If yes, is it an exact match for the original tank or is it from something else and you are making it fit? If it is the original the closest that I found is available here: http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?InventoryId=94775 Others have said that it is not the exact same but it does work. You just need to experiment with the fuel level and gauge reading to know if the gauge is correct and before you run out.

Duct tape? That would work but was hoping for better. I found one for a 69 camaro on Ebay that looks close so I'm going to gamble on it.

Does anyone have or know where to get a good shifter boot? I need the one that screws to the floor under the console. The metal ring and screws are there but the rubber is completely gone letting alot of heat enter the cab and in winter it will be cold air.

What is a map holder? Do you have a picture? Are those the plastic pockets on the lower portion?

Are you talking about the window wipes? The rubber strip that attach to the door along the bottom of the window. If yes, this place has them but there was a thread a while back and someone said they found a place that was cheaper. http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/cgi-bin/partsSQL/search.cgi?query=window+wipes&catid=95

Too much thinking in that post. I think i'm getting a headache from reading all the thinking he typed.

You are always safer to have the towing vehicle heavier than what is being towed when using a rear hitch. If you are using a gooseneck/fifth wheel type trailer it can be a little heavier. This is because with a rear hitch the tongue weight is at the back end and lifts the front of the vehicle giving you less steering control. Another option might be using a tow dolly for the cj and remove the plow during transport.

personally I would but a new or rebuilt one with a warranty and it won't be that much more than the junkyard price. If you get one from a junkyard you don't know what you are getting. Some will test it before you leave but as it is used you don't know how long it will last.