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IMHO the Dakota would be a poor 8.25 donor due to the bolt patter if nothing else. An XJ 8.25 is the correct width and bolt pattern, you just need to grind off the old axle perches and place them in the proper position for the MJ. Either SUA for stock or SOA if you wanted.

Sell them to your local scrap yard to be melted down if you need to recycle them....

My '88 Renix cranked for ever, too. The '91 HO also cranks for a second or maybe two, but not as long as the Renix did.

The one I posted above is a capture form the CL ad. I will snap a better one... maybe after I have the tires removed.

Image Not Found Picked up a set of 15x7 TJ Grizzly rims. I will probably run a set of street-ish or A/T tires on one set of the new rims and the TSL's on the other. Now to decide whether the Grizzies or the Eccos get the TSL's...hmmm....

Edit it to XJ/MJ page? I picked up a set of grey grizzlies today if you still need pics? I can get a better one tomorrow Image Not Found

The KJ base rim that is posted had the flat center cap like in the pic below it in the list, not a generic one like posted. Near as I have been able to find out these dimpled bastiges were an '02 only thing and possibly only on the 2wd's I have had a set for a couple of years and they have been on both MJ's and the KJ at some point.

From what I understand at 6" of lift like your sig line states an adjustable track bar would be pretty mandatory. As to whetehr that one is OK I would google the manufacturer. Some thing that was suggested to me when looking for reviews is to google " (insert product here) sucks" to help find negative reviews.

I had to get creative with ratchet straps when I changed out my control arms, too. For just changing soprings alone or added a ouck, I'm prety sure I would leave the arms attached in the future.

That FC170 is drool worthy

Indeed there are many reasons for auto's. One, as stated, is that they are easier on EPA testing due to the shifting characteristics. A computer shifted auto removes the variables of the clutch in/ free rev of a manual tranny during the testing, for example. GM hasn't offered a manual tranny in their full sized trucks in years. :no: I personally used an auto ( but without any auto shift ability due to an aftermarket valvebody) in my bracket drag racer for their ease of repeatability and the lessened drive train shock when dealing with almost 600 #/ft of torque. In a form I have bookmarked somewhere on one computer or another, 4wd 3.7/NSG370 KJ's made up 5% of the total sales of KJ's in 2005 :( .... but the 48:1 crawl ratio is really worth it if for no other reason. Many of us do not confine our "off roading" to unpaved roads and fire trails. Never overheated a manny tranny and cooked it and no coolers were needed...ever hear of anyone over heating and ruining an auto? Also more forgiving in deep water in most cases. . To each his own, but the skill and pleasure from shifting it yourself is a hoot. And it is one step further away from the "push button A to climb hill" that so many people seem to require anymore. Yes, it is harder to drive a manual well. But isn't that a point in and of itself? A repeatable 18/24 MPG from a lifted KJ with heavy tires and rims is another. :cheers: There are always envious jeepers when I fuel up half as often as much lighter 4.0/AW4 XJ's and the auto KJ's in the group. I do believe that the CRD KJ Cherokee sold outside of N. America was available with a manual even if us "soft Americans" were deemed to want only an auto. But this isn't about manny trannies per se, but diesel jeeps. I will start the pool by saying there will be no diesel Wrangler until at least 2014, if then. Any other prognosticators want to hazard a guess?

Strangely my biggest difficulty in getting diesel has always been in larger suburban/urban areas and not outlaying areas. And that is where I have found the price to be the worst. BTW: I did sign the petition. If Tony doesn't screw it up a decent diesel Jeep could be a hit, IMHO. Esepcially with a manual transmission ( my personal preference.)

Isn't there a way to use Google and limit it to a specific site? Like :site: in the search somewhere? I am computer functionally illiterate but I thought there was a way... EDIT: Found it! Type site:website (space) search term So here it would be site:comancheclub.com tj flare to search Google for a TJ flare posting here. Might help someone...

A little searching showed the OZ Pentastar starting at $46K(aus) & the CRD at $56K (aus). :fs1: Even at 7 or 8 more MPG that would require a significant time to re-coup the cost. I honestly think if this ever came to market here, it would only be in the uplevel trims as I stated above. That being said they would be stupid to have developed this engine without the US market in mind... but there is no assurance in that article that this motor is legal for sale in the U.S. or if it would make the same specs if it was "federalized." Not trying to be a wet blanket but considering how this has gone in the past... Remember that Oz & Europe also has a much more significant diesel infrastructure. Even with the huge boom in the diesel light truck sales here, refueling in some areas can be dicey and generally comes with a pretty large penalty. I filled up with regular yesterday for $3.53/gal and the diesel was $4.09!! A major rip-off for diesel users. I also wonder at the TQ. It seems overkill for a shortish wheelbased vehicle with a uni-body. The towing capacity for the Oz pentastar is 2,268 kg (5000 #'s in US) and for the Oz CRD is 3,500 kg, the same as the hemi (which is 7,500 #'s US). Although it does make more TQ than my 12-valve CTD dually did, don't be mad if I wouldn't attempt to tow the same loads with a WK2 as I did with my CTD. And speaking of torque, just what axles are they putting under this thing? How long would the IFS WK2 front last under a bit of a bind with 400+ pounds of torque? Power is nice, but I think the Pentastar offers about the max that you would need/want in a Wrangler, for example. That V6 has better HP (290) than any jeep engine offered- even the top-dog 401 V8 (215). Rememeber that earlier, higher HP figures were calculated in a different manner and are not apples-to-apples with the figures from the early 70's to now. Slightly de-tune this diesel (possibly with an accompanying increase in MPG?) and deliver it in a modestly equipped Wrangler at a competitive price and Jeep may be on to something. But don't be mad if I don't hold my breath waiting for it, especially in that configuration. :wall:

That J10 is a 3/4 ton J20. The D44HD front and matching D60 rear are good swap material even if the front is a pre-'80 pass. side drop. They are not as wide as most trucks. Swap a D300 x-fer onto the back of a 4x4 AW4, stick those axles on... :wrench: I like the new mirrors. I see that swap in my future. Was it hard? I need to persuade you to cut off a pass side cab corner off of one of those rust-free jumkers and ship it to Ohio for cheap... :D

I wonder what kind of power plant they would wind up with if they ever did it? The Italian 4banger used in the KJ couldn't economically pass the '07 diesel regs and they are tougher now. The Grand's Bluetec Mercedes V6 was a dandy, but with ties to M-B cut, what would the cost for that be? We are anticipating a nice, simple diesel for enthusiasts and the bean counters will probably give us a luxo-barge with a $50K + price tag....sigh...

Beadlocks would definitely be better. In drag racing all of the force is in one direction. Low air pressure off-road would pull against the screws in multiple directions, including against the grooves, so I would think they would have a much higher chance of failing or pulling out. With good tubes my slicks would not lose air for weeks.

I have never seen it on the street but it is very common and perfectly legal in drag racing. Mr. Gasket, ARP fasters, several others make a kit with the screws and drill bit to do it. Here is my old bracket racer with drilled/screwed rear tires. 4,300 #'s running low 11's at about 120 mph on slicks. With good track conditions this heavy pig would pull the front wheels an inch or two with the factory suspension, and the screws never harmed the slicks. Imagine the force on the screws to wrinkle the slicks like that with that kind of weigh on them. (launching) (suspension at rest)

If the center hole is big enough many many rims would work. Stock steelies (not just rallye wheels) from 1/2 2wd and a few 1/2 ton 4wd trucks (mainly those without lock-out hubs, IIRC) from the early-70's until the mid 90's, Mopar police cars, and most any mid-to full size rwd Mopar car, from the Charger size on where 4.5" bolt circle. Some of the smaller ( especially the A-bodies mentioned above), older Mopars did have the 4" bolt circle prior to disc brakes but those are actually getting more scarce as they ended almost 40 years ago. Many Ford mini-trucks and cars also have a 4.5" bolt circle. Most RWD vehicles had less backspacing, around 4", than the FWD-ish 5.25" BS of the Comanche. But that makes the RWD rims on par with most aftermarket rims anyway.

Hasn't someone used old Mopar Rallye wheels? The bolt pattern is the same if the center hole is big enough to clear the hub circle. That would opena whole range of options that would accept those hub caps.

I am swapping in an XJ 8.25 when I do the SOA on the MJ. What would those who have done this recommend for degreeing the new perches in comparison to the location of the stock XJ perches, if at all? I am getting the perches welded on to the axle before the install so the "sling it under the truck and measure before install" will not work in this case. I am using stock 2wd springs so the total lift should be around 4.5 or 5". Any thoughts or experiences would be appreciated.

Not knowing what you are working on, if it is a carb-ed engine with a mechanical fuel pump the fuel pump diaphragm could be leeaking gas into the oil as well.

In the Fo' Sale section now. viewtopic.php?f=24&t=31110

Thanks! Getting closer to having everything for the front 4.5" and rear SOA lifts: Still need dakota rear and YJ front brake lines, fluids, and some welding... :wrench:

That bed couch is awesome! I am in the market for some build parts...like 29 spline 8.25 locker...D30 locker..off road bumper(s)....something like that... :wrench: But cash is always the right color :yes: Most jeeps, including MJ's, had rust as a dealer installed option practically before they were bought new anywhere near the Greal Lakes region.