Incommando

That is was elevated this ad from me just rolling my eyes and moving on status to " OMG I have to share this" In a separate ad this same guy has a stock open D35 with the perches cut off for $450...because it has factory 4.56 gears he thinks.

http://dayton.craigslist.org/cto/2857102642.html :nuts:

I was almost afraid to open this one... :brows:

12 step??? :D

Although I am a huge proponent of States' rights vs. Federal regulations, I would love to see some standardization on this so a person who is perfectly legal in one state doesn't get jammed up because they crossed a state line. Ok, back to topic:

It may or may not be an AMC/Jeep 304. International made their own line of engines and they also had a 304 CID V8. It gets screwy because IH did use some jeep engines at times including the AMC 401 in place of the their own 400 when they couldn't make enough. IH used AMC Inline 6's. IH thermostat housing are square or rectangular while AMC one's are round. They share no parts but this has always been the "quick and easy" spotters tip I have heard. Both have the distributor in the front. Although any thing is possible in a vehicle that is over 30 years old, I would check out what actual engine it has and for sure which axles: unless swapped in they would be D44's with a 5x5.5 lug pattern instead of the 8-lugs the D60's used.

Enjoy

yes The were a old Fiat design ( IIRC) and many of the parts had been sitting in warehouse before the Commies bought them and assembled them. They made k=new, to put some of the parts were 15 years old on the "new" car. I was waiting for the 4-door version..the Wego.

And goodness knows that every internet posting about such things are always 100% factual and never the result of trolls who have an ax to grind about a certain brand posting it. I personally find it curious that your original anti-Glock rant was only about the used "hundreds of thousands of rounds" gun exploding yet when pressed the far more damning allegations that TWO new barrels failed on your immediate family in less than 500 rounds was trotted out. A 100% failure rate per your stats of new Glocks. See? It is an internet posting that 100% Glocks' barrels fail withing 500 rounds! It MUST be true! My phone call to a group that has purchased and issued over 9,000 Glocks since 1988 with most having been fired thousands of times with factory loaded ammo has shown exactly ZERO barrel failures. Luckily they did not wind up with 9,000 barrel failure within 500 rounds as your data suggests. While not saying your story is made up I will put out that this at least tells us something about statistics and how the can be used. The fact that you went back and edited your original post TWO DAYS later and and after being called out is, to me at least, strange.... And why wasn't this tid bit " skidoo_j: "I even had a local glocksmith look at it and he said they'd say it was over breech pressure and blame the round not the gun" in the original barrel failure post if you had that info yet "over pressure loads" were never mentioned ( or even thought of?) until I posted about them. In the original barrel post which I qouted on the 8th it was "Also as far as glocks go, the factory barrels suck. My father likes glock (i have know idea why i think because they were cheap when he got them). needless to say hes had a 23c, 17, 19, 27. we've blown up both barrels in the 23c and 27. they're both 40s&W glock would not replace them because they said the breech was not covered if they felt you used hot ammo. ie +p etc... well we had not but of course they said they did, It was GLOCK that would not replace them, not a gunsmith saying that over pressure loads were involved. Hopefully any future readers can look at everything presented here in this thread and draw their own conclusions about the posts therein.

No, he faced the reality that if he didn't deal with them on his own terms now someone else was going to deal with them on their terms later.

Excellent post. If you and everyone with access to the weapon is not prepared to use it, it is probably a greater liability than an asset! ( I often carry a Taurus PT738 .380 as a pocket gun despite my appreciation for Glocks)

Well we did play that song, because they were just Remington 40 s&w from bi-mart. The same rounds that went through my Sig p239 time and time again. But you also fell under this part "Buying a used gun with no real knowledge of its history assures that the person suffering the alleged failure has no idea what type of loads had been run through it before even if they aren't using re-loads themselves..." and although you were 100% honest the PO may not have been.

:doh: Amazingly incorrect. The safety feature of the Glock is the two-piece trigger that makes it harder to accidentally pull the trigger. However, the main safety feature of any gun is the user. If you cannot be trusted to not fire a weapon you should not have the weapon. Period. How many "safeties" do you need for a revolver? :thumbsup: And besides, a semi-auto with no round in the chamber is a 2 pound club, not a firearm. How many police officers ( of the hundreds of thousands worldwide) do you think carry their Glock either openly or concealed without a round in the chamber? :nuts: I'll bet that the claimed barrel failures were from someone buying re-loads or packing their own re-loads "hot" and then playing the " the ammo wasn't labled as "P" song. The other factor is cheapo re-loaders re-using the brass casings. This allows the actual projectile to seat too far into the cartridge which compresses the powder ("overpressure" loads) and increases the "explosion" for lack of a better word. Decades ago when I played with the re-loading game "once-fired" brass sold at a premium for a reason: reputable reloaders would not use tired casings because they are dangerous. A Glock firing good ammo is good to go for hundreds of thousands of rounds safely. Buying a used gun with no real knowledge of its history assures that the person suffering the alleged failure has no idea what type of loads had been run through it before even if they aren't using re-loads themselves.(still betting on re-loads myself, though.) As to choice: go someplace that rents guns, or borrow one of each that you are considering, and decide for yourself. No one's preference should be your preference without testing. I prefer Glocks, having carried some version or another for over 25 years in many fashions both openly and concealed. It is a very simple, very reliable,very accurate with no need for "customization" like many famous high dollar pistols (afraid to carry it because a speck of dirt will render it equal to a hammer??), and very safe handgun. I have fired tens of thousands of rounds through a couple of them ( 22 & 27) without a hitch...far far more than the average gun owner will ever fire. I have seen specimens with hundreds of thousands of rounds ( all factory loaded 40 S&W rounds) put through them function flawlessly. The Glock is a perfectly safe weapon. If a cop accidentally shoots himself it is in the news nationwide most of the time. Hear of that very often? Glocks are ideal for people who are not really "gun nuts" who fiddle and clean their weapons whether used or not. They are very forgiving of inattention and even of outright abuse. I have personally seen one frozen in a bucket of water for a week & then thawed and it worked perfectly. I have seen them purposely run over with cars and they worked flawlessly. I have seen one dug out of mud and fired without a glitch with only the barrel cleared. There is a large body of info about how well they handle the neglect that renders the "sexy" guns useless. Do not buy a Glock (despite the way that it fills its purpose perfectly) because anyone suggests it, though. Try it and research it or any gun yourself. Some folks rely on the easy SA trigger pull to make up for a lack of accuracy in DA. Just learn to shoot and the DA-only is great. Doing away with the SA and they way outdated "cocked and locked" carry method increases the safety factor more than another mechanical safety would and is one less thing to worry about in a true SHTF scenario. It also eliminates the need for a decocking lever which is just another thing to snag when trying draw from concealment. The Berrtta 9 series, and particularly the 9mm 92, has a history of serious longevity issues, primarily the slide breaking with sometimes catastrophic results. As the 92F is a 9mm and you wanted a 40 S&W you would want a 96 version anyway. ;) If you need a safety "in case the kids find it" you have already failed as a gun owner. Remember my revolver comment? I hope you aren't relying too heavily on answers to a posting on a fairly small membership JEEP board for such an important (and relatively pricey) decision. There is a lot of good info out there. Good luck with your search!

KBB should start "Once upon a time..."

WJ, hopefully the XJ is soon to follow. Sold the WJ to a chinese guy who apparently can't drive......uh wut? must.....resist.....bannable.....comment

Go all the way: replace the front with 3.07's to optimize your economy! Putting 33's on the front and 28's on the rear should also help you achieve your goal. :wrench:

Any kit that uses any part of a Rough Country lift is at least partially a cheap P.O.Crap. They only thing that their fanboi's can counter with is that they are (A) cheap and (B) Rough Country often gives you freebies for all of the F-uped stuff they do/sell. I hate to see Hellcreek associated with them.

Is there no way to even get the title for the MJ? A truck in that condition and without a title is worth very little whole...parting it may be best. People do it all of the time but I would not invest 10 cents in a vehicle for which I could not get a title.

I have bought and sold a few things with this guy. Love his ads and this is how he posts on Ebay, too. 1987 Corvette 91K miles, all stock, new tires. $4499 I bought this for a good price on Friday 1-20-2012. The previous owner was an older guy who traded a Harley Davidson for this car in 2009. He put the car in his wife’s name. He did not like it as much as he expected because it was a pain to get into an out of. He parked it in his garage. He only put about 1000 miles on it in two years. He stated that he knew he was taking a beating on selling it for what he did, but he wanted it out of his garage. I bought it, we had the title notarized into my name, and I had it brought to my place. I vacuumed it and I washed it. I did not do anything else to the car. Due to all of the snow and ice on the road, I did not drive the car for any distance however I have no reason to believe that anything is wrong with it. The engine starts right up and sounds great. It has the stock exhaust on it. It sounds deep, but not obnoxious. It sounds like a V8 should. It does not have any exhaust leaks or rattles. The engine idles like it should, it does not smoke, or make any bad sounds. I’d rate the engine as a 10 out of 10 considering the miles on it. It has 91,000 miles on it. The car does not overheat—I had it running for at least an hour straight last night. The electric fan kicks on like it should when the temp gets to 220 degrees. The body of the car does not have any damage. I did not see any dents, torn plastic, or damaged fiberglass. The paint is original. It is still shiny. It does have various chips in it. The only part about the exterior that I do not like is the rear spoiler. This was obviously added at some point by a previous owner and painted to match the rest of the car. I’m sure it matched at that time, but the paint is now faded on the spoiler. Personally, I think the spoiler looks stupid anyway. Even if the paint was still nice on the spoiler, I would remove it and sell it to a ricer…or go hang gliding with it…or simply throw it in the trash. If for some reason I don’t sell the car, I’m going to remove the spoiler and put body plugs in the mount holes. At the price that I’m selling this car for, I doubt it will come to that. The interior of the car could use minor attention. The driver window motor barely moves. The passenger window motor mechanism is currently removed. The previous owner bought new (used from a junkyard actually) window motors for both side, started working on the passenger side and then parked it last year. At this time, the driver side door is still fully assembled. I have the door panel and all parts for the passenger side. The small headliner on the removable roof needs recovered. The carpet is faded in the rear hatch area due to the sun hitting it for 25 years. The seats show some wear, but they aren’t trashed by any means. Everything on the digital dash works. All of the gauges work. The wipers work. The heater & blower work. The AC will likely need re-charged. I did not try it. Assume it doesn’t work. The battery was replaced in 2010 (still has the tag on it), but it did set dead for quite a while. I charged it last night and the car starts fine now---but when a battery sits dead for a long time it does shorten the life. Everything under the hood is very clean. The tires were replaced right before the previous owner bought it, and they look to be nearly new, and tires for a Corvette aren’t cheap. I have a regular Monday-Friday job. I buy & sell cars, car parts, tractors, etc, on the side for additional income. I do not bull$#!& people when I describe the items that I’m selling. I believe in Karma. Treat people right, and you’ll probably be treated right in return. Screw someone over, and well---you probably will get yours sooner or later. Feel free to check my ebay feedback—it is perfect. My username is Roy61Deville. With most cars that I buy, I have zero interest in keeping them---I only want to make a few bucks off of them & get rid of them. With this car it is a little different. I don’t have to sell it, and if it doesn’t sell for $4499, I’d have no issues in fixing a few issues with it and using it as a daily driver. The title of this car is clear and was (legitimately) notarized yesterday afternoon. The notary checked our ID’s. I did not make it to the title office yesterday. If the car sells before Monday, we will have to wait until Monday to meet at the title office and get that taken care of. I work in the town of Cambridge (zip code 43725), so that is where you would have to meet me to get the title put into your name. This is a must, as I will not have someone driving around in a Corvette that is registered to me. In summary, this is a good deal on a 25 year old Corvette. There are nicer ones out there, and they cost about twice as much as this one. This is certainly not a show car, but if you can find another Corvette that isn’t junk for less than $4500, I suggest you go and buy it. NADA values this car at $7200+ in daily driver condition. Pictures: The pictures show exactly what the car looks like today. All pictures of this car were taken in my driveway on Saturday 1-21-2012. Price: The price of the car is 100% firm at $4499 cash. If you do not have $4499 cash, there is no need to contact me as we aren’t going to reach a deal. Will I hold it until you get your tax check, welfare check, or pending disability check? No. I will not hold the car for anyone or consider it sold until I receive a deposit. Cash or paypal only. Essentially, he who pays first wins. Thanks,

The drain is an option on the G2.http://www.barnes4wd.com/product_info.p ... ts_id=2424 The covers like solid, ruffstuff, etc...add another benefit as the act like a girdle or truss to help stiffen up the housing, an issue with the D30. I am not sure you get that with a diff. guard?

Before you spend twice as much on a G2 go to where they get them (and then slap their sticker on it) and pay 50% less.... $64 http://www.solidaxle.com/productcart/pc ... Category=7 I have the Solid on the front D60 on the CJ7 but a Barnes off-road shaved 14 bolt cover on the rear axle.

Not in my XJ at least, those are very attainable numbers for me on the highway. A pure highway tank gets me 24 in my much heavier KJ albeit with a different engine. Adding taller tires without a gear change ( probably the most common scenario) would cause an uncorrected MPG figure to be lower than it really is, yes? 23 highway in a fly weight MJ? Very believable.

Can't wait to see all of these 5 cyl swaps :wrench: and the methods used to to increase the mileage so much over the factory applications' numbers cited from credible sources. And I hope for a careful calculation of the total cost of the swap vs. the numbers of miles driven @ X provable MPG to see the length of the cost recovery (if any) in the real world. Even if the swapper values their time at $0 I like to see the total amount of time of the swap vs. an engine R&R. Should be interesting to see how this would go vs. an r&r using the 84,000 mile '99 4.0 available locally right now for $300.

36G (36DDD + a bit more) Do I be a man?

I understand that anything can be done but the why of most of it eludes me. I have seen several negative reviews of those engines. Despite the claimed numbers the 5 cyl has been considered fairly weak and longevity is an unsettled issue. Numerous head/overheating problems reported-at least with those old enough to have a few miles on them. GM's classic " (AB)use the customer to find and correct vehicle problems" may have taken care of many of the issues in the newer versions. I have read " all the power of a 4cyl with the mileage of a 6cyl" more than once. I get 17 city/24 Highway in a 3.7L/6spd KJ with a lift and 31" mud tires and an aggressive driving style . And it weighs at least 4,200 #'s, or about 1,200 pounds more than an MJ and 800 #'s more than a Canyon. The Colorado only weighs about 400 hundred pounds more than an MJ yet it's EPA figures are 15/20 for a 4wd!!! How is that impressive? I would almost doubt the Toyo swap guy's claims. :roll: An FJ80 and an H3 both weigh about the same but the H3 is estimated at 13/17 for EPA MPG so....another internet BS story? It is possible that he realized a performance increase as Toy's inline 6 is a poor performing, gas-guzzling turd. I am fairly certain my 225K mile '91 MJ gets around the 17/25 claimed MPG of a 5 cyl 2wd Colorado. Junkyard 4.0 around here is closer to $200-$400 dollars. $1,500 for a junkyard 4.0??? You can get a rebuilt longblock for about that. The "average" internet price for a used 5cyl is about $1,200 per Google. If you think you can buy the 5cyl fully dressed and with its electronics and adapt it to an MJ for between $300 and $1500 dollars I would like to see it. I think you are at least 75% below the actual cost of the swap for most people. If you want to do this swap for the "gee I did it factor" that is one thing but thinking you will recover the cost/time/aggravation on increased MPG in a reasonable amount of time ( if such a gain exists beyond the one Toyo dude's claims) is not realistic IMHO.