Incommando

True

and again.... and again... :eek:

The ealry '02's were referred to as "pre-lowered" because most were built before they lowered them. The pre-lowered term is not very clear as to which was lowered and which was not. the '02s also got the better 45-series auto tranny versus the minivan derived 42 series used afterwards. Disc rears were an option in '02 but standard every other rear, though. Look here: http://jeepkj.com/forum/f202/how-tweak-your-keyless-entry-settings-25640/ I think you have to have the Electronic Vehicle Information Center ( EVIC) option to disable them. Your Limited probably has the EVIC

So I should put my "Project Yugo" on hold...... :dunno: ........ :rotf:

I need the shifter linkage to convert my MJ to 4wd. I need everything but the shifter itself. That includes the mount on the transmission, the body-side mount on the transmission tunnel, and the little flag on the transfer case. I have tried to remove 2 here but the tunnel bracket broke from rust ( or me being too rough) both times. Image Not Found I have 1-9. I especially need #31 & #14 which is the transmission tunnel support bracket with #16 attached. I also have 11,17, & 15 but if you want to include it all as a package deal with any of the attachment things you have that could work. Thanks!

I think maybe running stock u-joints with the alloy axles might give you a nice "fuse" to blow and protect the rest of the front axle components.

You could put $10,000 in restoring a Yugo. But that doesn't make it a $10,000 Yugo. 35" tires with 3.55 gears? Yep, that thar is sure nuff a "Baja Race Trophy Truck" like the deescription sez.

That is a ZJ rim. S10 rims would not fit as the have a 5x4.75 bolt pattern versus the 5x4.5 of our MJ's. They did have a very similar wheel, though. Same with those aluminum 10-holes. The gamblers have 5 holes. I am not sure what the ten holes are called but one of those linked threads probably has it in there.

Well we had a couple of hours tonight so we hit it as it is supposed to rain for the next five days. We removed the 2wd beam axle by disconnecting the shocks at the body, removing the calipers, removing all 4 control arms at the body, dropping the drag link at the pittman arm, and removing the body-side bracket for the track bar. The whole assembly came out as unit. Next we rolled the donor D30 in place. We assembled the new RE adjustable upper & Rusty's lower control arms on the axle. Then the new HD RE trackbar was attached to the axle mount and the new HD RE track bar bracket, necessary to run the double-shear RE track bar and eliminate the tie rod end the factory uses, on the body. The whole assembly was jacked into place and the control arms were connected. The track bar was secured into the new mount and the drag-link was attached to the pittman arm. We installed the new RE 5.5" springs last. We still have to install the quick disconnects, BPE's and then the new front shocks. We left it tonight still on jack stands awaiting both the shocks and the front brake pads, rotors, and calipers to be replaced. Here is the only pic that I took. The rust looks much worse in the pic then it actually is. I think that the flash did it. Still the axle will get stripped via wire brush & fap wheels and covered in paint before the final assembly.

Stock ratios are generally a compromise between power and MPG. Returning to a stock RPM level will return you to near stock levels in each but probably not completely. A taller rig is less aerodynamic. In addition larger wheels and tires weigh more and that weight is unsprung. Unsprung weight has the most effect on performance and MPG. A rule of thumb is that 1 pound of unsprung weight equals adding ten pounds of weight supported by springs. Basically that means that making a rig taller and heavier will make it hard to keep the same MPG. For a lot of highway driving you might go to 3.73's to lower highway RPM's. As you do mainly around town driving and if you were happy with the truck's performance when stock then 4.10's/4.11's look good. 4.56's should give you more punch light to light and off-road but at a cost in MPG. I don't think they make a 4.27/4.30 for a high pinion d30 but if they do that ratio would give you more punch then the 4.10's with less MPG loss than 4.56's. A rear thick gear set would save you a carrier swap in the rear but none of the gear changes would prevent the need for a front carrier swap. The "ratio break" for the D30 is 3.73. 3.73 and numerically higher gears take one carrier while 3.55 and lower take another. The break for a 44 is 3.92-up. You could go to a 3.73 and use a thin gear set on the stock carrier but that is it.

2.5" 'Rockfather" lift with 245/75/r16's M/T's.

There is no such thing as overkill when it comes to things like this.

It was a great buy.

A 15x7" wheel is fine for tires up to 31", which is probably covers the majority of our MJs. Anything larger an 8" wheel is best, like the Ravine, Moab, Canyon, etc. In don't think that the height of the tire matters for the width of the rim just the width of the tire. I would much prefer a 34x9 tire on a 15x7 vs a 15x8. I prefer stock wheels as well. I ran 15x8 Gamblers on my previous MJ. My current build uses stock 16x7 steelies. KJ with painted factory steelies Painting wheels tip: The new plastidip fad is not great off roads as it peels off easily. Heck some car washes will take it off. Rattle can wheel paint works and that is what is on the KJ. I did not like the finish. For good adhesion and longevity I use the Bumper & Trim rattle cans from the auto parts place. It looks good with a finish like plastidip but it lasts. It does not just peel off. Of course if you want to be able to peel it off that is a bad thing...

I had a lot of fun in my '05. Lifted it, locked it, and took it off-road regularly.

Snakedoc67's MJ is overloaded due to excessive tongue weight or a combination of tongue weight and load weight. That is evident in the pictures posted. Add in the possibility of a significant mechanical failure? I am sorry you wrecked the MJ but from here it looks like the MJ was an innocent party. :) The 5,000 towing capacity of an MJ was not with a D35, either. That may have helped it die. A quick Google shows an automatic Camry at about 3,200 #'s. I can't estimate the weight of the trailer. Your max tow capacity was 3,500 #'s *new*. I have no way of knowing if your truck was near "like new" condition but it looks like the tow rating was exceeded with the car & trailer plus any cargo. No matter the vehicle panic stops when loaded and/or pulling a trailer will be more involved than in an unladen vehicle. Does a D3500 make better panic stops unloaded or when pulling 30,000 #'s? Does an MJ make better panic stops when unladen or when carrying 1,000 #'s in the bed? Don't underestimate the advantage that a longer wheelbase will give you in towing & control of the vehicle. The WJ's is about 104-105", pretty short. The V8 in an of itself does nothing for stopping while towing neither does a non-or barely function brake controller so don't get hung up on those things being any kind of aid in your towing experience that time. A properly equipped MJ in like new condition should have no problem carrying a properly loaded trailer at the maximum recommended weight. For those of you with the owner's manual go check what that weight actually is. Now be realistic about your MJ when compared to a properly equipped MJ in like new condition.

My first guess is that torque converter is not fully seated onto the input shaft. It slides on then you have. to wiggle it around to get it to slip on fully. Even if properly seated it could have slid forward during installation. If that isn't the issue but you had the flex plate (flywheels are used on manual transmissions) off for the swap is it dished so that it would be possible that it could have been re-attached to the crankshaft backwards? I did this exact same swap last week and had no such issue. I left the original flexplate attached to the engine the whole time. The third thought is that the snout on the converter did not seat into the crankshaft and then you bent the flex plate back when you tightened the bolts. Sorry but it looks like the tranny will probably have to come back out.

If the drive train is original MJ stuff you need a front gear set for a high pinion Dana 30. They are also called "reverse rotation." The gears are not the same for a low pinion so if it is a 2000 you need a low pinion gear set. To go from 3.54/3.55 to either of those ratios you mentioned you will need to replace the carrier. You can get a factory carrier or take the opportunity to upgrade to a Truetrac or other full carrier locker. For the rear it should be a low pinion 44. High pinion axles are almost exclusively found in front axle applications. Normally you would also need to change your carrier for that gear swap which would cost you your limited slip. (In Jeeps the LSD is Track Loc. Posi is a Chevrolet term.) However for low pinion D44's you can get a "thick" gear set that would allow you to keep your factory LSD and save you few bucks in the process. If you want to upgrade the carrier to a full case locker like a Detroit, though, now would be the time. If you do you would then use thin gears. If by "full 2000 swap" you meant the drive train then the rear would not be a D44. If it is a Dana 35 throw it away and spend $100 on a used 8.25 and start from there. 8.25's use the same carrier and gear sets for all ratios. If you did mean the common cosmetic only swap please do not include that in questions like this as it is irrelevant and just causes confusion. As to ratio it really depends on what is more important to you. You can go to WWW.grimmjeeper.com and plug in the stock numbers in one column and then try different combos in the other column to see what ratios get you the RPMs that you want. To split the difference as recommended above remember that 4.27 & 4.30 are matching ratios. Those ratios may not be available for your particular application. Cheap gear sets like US Standard tend to make noise which is most often a whine that can get annoying. Better sets like Yukon generally do not. Companies like Motive have two lines as well. There are many brands so you may want to Google the rep of any set you are interested in. If your axles are swapped in all bets are off on this info. If they are and you can post info as to the original application or even front and rear pics of the axles we could make appropriate recommendations.

One thing you might eliminate first is your body-side track bar mount being messed up. It will cause that kind of pop, too. Too bad about Hi Country...nice looking product

Sweet

Hi Country 4x4 is apparently no longer in business?

Let's us know what you think of it. They seem to be a love it/hate it product.

Do one side at a time. Disconnect the shock. Jack up the body on that side to allow droop. The proper way is to use a coil spring compressor but just do it however you removed the stock spring when you did the lift. You may be able to compress the spring enough to slide the spacer on top and then re-install it all. If not remove the spring & put the spacer on top. Re-install. Check and see if the shocks are still long enough or if they need replaced/limited. Check alignment.

The nicer aftermarket bumpers re-enforce the steering box area. You can also buy bolt-in or weld-on plates to do that job. Replacement steel spacers are available as you found in that link. Here is an example of a brace that runs from the box over to the passenger side that is supposed to prevent the flex in the first place. http://www.quadratec.com/products/12590_0523_07.htm

Here is the new tire/wheel combo: They are 265/75/r16 Buckshot M/T's on 16" KJ/Liberty steel rims. Mounted on these 7" wide rims & they balanced up with minimal weight for a heavy tire & steel rim. The tires measure 32 1/8"s tall and the tread is 20/32's deep. I chose to use these rims because they are shaped kind of differently then most other factory rims as they have a raised ring around the center where the lug nuts mount. That should protect my center caps, lug nuts, & even the valve stems more than most of the flat-faced factory rims that you usually find with the factory backspacing of 5.5" or so. This photo shows the area I am talking about and it shows how the center cap is protected: I 'wheeled my Liberty quite a bit using the wheel & 245/75/r16 tire combo pictured in the post above these one. I had to replace several center caps over the rears from contact with obstacles. I am hoping to avoid that. You often hear that D or E rated tires will not flex or at least will not flex unless they are on a very heavy rig. That is not my personal experience with them. Pictured here are 10-ply E-rated tires at 20 PSI on a Jeep Liberty which is almost identical to an XJ dimensionally. Look at the right rear tire in particular: The heavier carcass of the tire would seem to aid in puncture resistance. The wheel/tire combo I am using on the MJ is pretty heavy--about 80 #'s each set. Although heavy wheel/tire combo's like these are bad for a performance car and will effect MPG additional unsprung weight can aid in traction. So everything is a bit of a trade-off. (BTW: the tires and wheels in this Liberty pic are the ones on the MJ pic with just the rear lift on. Here the have about 5,000 miles on them while they have over 40,000 miles on them in the MJ pic.)