Incommando

That would explain it

The revised 4.0 in WJ's, TJ's, and later XJ's do not have the longevity that the early models had. I know they changed the head for '99 but did they change anything else?

Running 4wd when there is too much traction would do that in a Dana 20 transfer case. Has anyone experienced this on a 231? Does 4 wheel drive just quit working or does it pop the lever out of position?

Spicer

Can you elaborate on this? Is it replacing the stock pump with a high volume version, a high pressure version, or something else? Thanks

Try 20w50 as the weather warms. Things like Restore might buy you a little extra time. None of these will fix anything but it is possible to buy some time if you are lucky. As to 15w40 it is a weight that many of us run anyway. There is plenty of anecdotal evidence that switching an older and/or high mileage engine over to synthetic can hasten an engine failure and lead to oil leaks. I can tell you from experience that a seemingly OK 2.7 V6 ( admittedly a junk engine design even if it did have 145,000 on it) blew up within 1,500 miles of changing it to full synthetic oil. Much like "which oil or filter is best" there are tons of opinions on this. I think it would be worth a few minutes of anyone's time to research this to make a more informed decision prior to making such a switch. Remember that the vast majority of our 250,000 mile plus 4.0's have never seen a drop of synthetic oil and are doing fine. Being vigilant about oil changes is probably more important then the oil you use in these engines, anyway.

For a budget build I like Aussie. American built and reliable. A Chinese built version is cheaper and called Lokka... but it is made in China of Chinese metal.

^^^^ Another excellent post. Thanks for all you do.

But doesn't the fact that the axles are now pulling instead pushing correct that? They do not make separate gear sets for front/rear if the axle is identical. If the cut on the pinion and ring are the same front to rear then the rotation is the same. Usually "flipping" is just for changing the dropped side of the diff.? The pinion does not decide the direction the input from the drive shaft does. Doesn't the drive shafts theoretically change that as changing the direction that they face means in function they are spinning the gears set in the opposite direction? If you check those links, especially the various videos on the 'net, they do not change anything to make a front axle out of a rear axle center section. Just asking. The down side to this in L/P axles is that the gears now ride on the weaker "coast" side of the gears. That is why H/P axles are desirable in the front: it makes them stronger by changing where the pinion puts the pressure on the ring. Again: Just asking. I am not insisting I am right or anything.

As for this there is no "kit" to swap the gauges by replacing the original lights. If you want to add additional gauges it is as easy as buying the gauges you want in a 2 or 3 gauge set or even individually and installing them where ever you want them. Such kits are available from your local McAuto parts place or places like Summitracing.com or jegs.com.

Easiest/Cheapest. Grab the gauge cluster and the sensors you need from an XJ at the junkyard. IIRC you need a Renix set if you have a Renix truck and a OBD1 if you have OBD1. You need the sender located by the oil filter for the oil pressure. The one for temp is located on the rear of the head on the driver's side. It is very small. It is not the large sender by the thermostat. Get these from the donor vehicle as well as they are rarely go bad. From there it is plug and play. If you have an automatic MJ keep in mind that most XJ's are floor shift while MJ's are column shift. Using a gauge cluster from a floor shift jeep will mean you lose your gear indicator in the dash. I have never found it to be an issue but you can search for the harder to find and usually more expensive MJ full gauge cluster from an auto MJ if it bothers you.

I have seen factory training film strips and listened to radio ads. It is for sure Willis. That is also how the founder John Willys pronounced his name. I had links to the film strips book marked for years but the links are now dead. Read about half way down the page:http://www.public.asu.edu/~grover/willys/ws.html And from the home of Jeep, The Toledo Blade: http://m.toledoblade.com/local/2002/02/03/J-N-Willys-pronounced-his-name-Willis-local-Jeep-historian-says.html The company created by John North Willys was Willys-Overland. It is funny that most people correctly call it "Willis"-Overland but suddenly add a nonexistent apostrophe to make it the possessive "Willy's" for the jeep.

They are newish but have a good rep. They are a division of BDS and BDS has a very solid reputation.

Good call on the offset. For an off-roader replacing the tailgate would work. But I am honestly unsure if it would provide better sales potential. We are a relatively small market anyway and it is further divided among wheelers, posers, and those who use their truck as a truck. One that does not replace the tailgate may have broader appeal.

In have had very good luck with Autolite.

25 year old metal and a notoriously weak front unibody? They make several different pieces to bolster the various frame and suspension/steering components because they are needed. Just the lift and tires alone over stress the stock parts. Can do something and should do something are very different.

As for tough crowd there is one in every crowd. No worries.

That is so true of many modern engines it seems. Neglected oil changes ruin them. Oh for the good old days of running it 2 quarts low for 10,000 miles with no issue.... :doh:

Swing out with a stop. I can lift my 120# tire/wheel combo up but I am not sure everybody wants to do that

http://www.wideopendesign.com/Product/11415/14-Bolt-Steering-Axle-Assembly.aspx

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-19763386-gm-14-bolt-steering-front-axle.html http://www.powernationtv.com/episode/XO2014-16/rock-bouncer-rock-race-axles

This^. There is not an underdash port like for OBDII but there is a port under the hood by the ECM. Any McAuto parts place can loan you a scanner for OBDI

^that^

A big issue is not just the size but the design. A mild street tread or A/T will fit without rubbing the LCA where an M/T with aggressive side lugs will rub. I put 31s on an unlifted 2wd and they never rubbed but they were a street tread. For liability reasons those dealer sites will rarely suggest a non-stock size.

I am pretty sure 91 was the first OBD1?