Incommando

Love your build threads, and those tires/rims look great on there.

cool thread

The DD: on crappy Rubi MT/R's Another toy: '71 Road Runner bracket car

Those won't work. The front is driver's drop on your MJ while those axles are pass. drop, for one thing. You need '80 - newer FSJ axles.

i just got internet at home today and will be able to access my photobucket again. Thanks for the suggestion though the jeeps are kind of a nice diversion from thee deevorce. I have always had jeeps and gravitate to the unusual ones, like commandos.

Good choice

A bit delayed, but here is a crappy pic:

Thanks for taking the time to explain it a bit.

Pull all of the time or just in 4wd? Can you explain why? Maybe I could overcome it? A rear spool is easy as pie: very predictable.

I believe you are looking for an AMC Model 23, the one-piece axle unit with the better tubes. It was used under FSJ's and, IIRC, was the option under the early MJ. The Model 20 was the two-piece axle, thin tubed CJ version that I would hope they left out of the MJ. Center section stuff is the same for both.

Thanks and back at ya

Dang! You really follow that "I'll sleep when I am dead" philospophy, don't you?

My 245/75/16 versions on the KJ are an E-rated tire, and even if it is false hope, I am counting on that for a bit more puncture reistance and sidewall strength. Their wet pavement traction is amazing (to me) for a true M/T.

I have run spools in high-horsepower street cars ( even driving a 450hp Super bee all winter in Ohio with a spool) without an issue, but that of course is just the rear. But I have had F/R spooled D44's under a commando and drove it on pavement covered in several inches of snow by leaving one hub unlocked with no issues. Why would one use 4wd on the street unless it was so covered that you might as well be off-road? It isn't a FT transfer case....? Even open axles blow t-cases for people who use P/T cases and 4wd on dry pavement. I avoid 4hi even on snow covered streets unless it is so bad that the 2wd vehicles are not able to move. Some with hard off-road surfaces I admit to not being a huge fan of chain-driven/aluminum cased transfer cases in the first place, and even my kj has a 241 & not the rather smallish 231 that the MJ has, but I am hoping that the 1,000 # weight difference will keep the 231 alive.

I got a great (great!) deal on a NIB posi-lock set. So, instead of an aussie front locker, I am going to weld the front diff up and use the posi-lock to lock/unlock one side. This has been done many times before, I know, but I still think that for the money it is a cool idea. I know that it will not be 100% same as a selectable locker as only the driver's side wheel will have power in 4wd/unlocked mode. There will be no differentiation form side to side. The plan is 3" lift and 32x9.5's. The rear has a trash-loc that, against all odds, still holds bias under powerbraking on pavement. When it dies, I think I will go to a no-slip made for a D44 trac-loc as the trac-loc case is beefier that an open case. No gear messin' and it would be closer in strength to an actual locker. Now I need to find the 297-jointed '95 YJ axle to maintain my disco axle and still be able to upgrade the axle u-joints. I believe that I should also upgrade the shift fork? Thoughts? Ideas? Throw rotten fruit at me?

"I can build a flush mount one that would be even with the tailgate, and tuck up between the bedsides." That sounds great. And a reciever could be recessed to the point that the cross pin would be accessed from behind the bumper, with the front opening almost flush to the face of the bumper with just the larger square "ring" sticking out....

Sales for the Tundra & Titan are way off of predictions and were before the economy collapse. The next Titan is actually going to be a re-badged Ram as the Titan cannot stand on its own even sharing a platform with the SUV and, to some extent, the Frontier.

Dana 25....

I was so disappointed in the OE Rubi MT/R's I ditched them after 10K. They are not a great mud tire ( Goodyear stated MT was for Maximum Traction, not Mud Terrain). They sucked on wet pavement & winter conditions. And as I mentioned above the wear/balance issue rep. was well earned on these. I know run some Definity Dakota M/T's, an off-brand Cooper. They are heavily siped and are worlds better on the road than the MT/R's. They clean true mud very well. I do have concerns about side-wall strength and puncture reisitance, but not because of any issues known to me, just because they are an unknown factor for this tire. Their on-road performance on wet pavement and, according to friends, on snow/ice would make me recommend them for someone wanting an A/T for road manners but M/T performance. Believe it or not, the Goodyear Authorty, a Wally World/Sam's house brand, has been getting some good reviews as an aggresive AT at a reasonable cost. :dunno:

Yep... That sounds like the way to go. Max. clearance. The rear overhang reminds me off my FSJ's...toooo long.

FoMoCo still brought a knife to that gun fight :yes:

Joisey :rotf:

I have the factory step bumper and I am not happy with the departure angle hit the truck takes with it on there. If this improves much on that, please shoot me a price if you decide to sell the others you can produce.

OEM goodyears suck, but try to keep in mind that the vehicle manufacturers set the specs for those tires and they are often different then the same-named tire than is offered in the aftermarket. There is a large body of evidence that OE Rubi MT/R's do not last as long and have more balance issues than ones purchased aftermarket. I bought a -0- mile set of five OE Rubi MT/R's and they sucked very badly in wear, traction, and the ability to stay blanced. A buddy has a set of 265/75/16 MT/R's purchased aftermarket on his KJ and he has 40,000 miles on his without these same issues. A guy I know & have 'wheeled with has the Duratracs and can't say enough positive things about them. I can say that his tires at 10K are showing very little wear. They are much more aggressive than the hankook's linked above and they are still a good street tire.

If I am getting the message, you want to go SOA & not get any lift? If so, wouldn't you need a spring that sat lower than stock? I wonder if an XJ pack SOA on an MJ would get you close to the SUA height?