BeatCJ

Well, it's not charging, so replacing the alternator is next. I forgot to check continuity on the charging wire, so I'll meter that before I go buy one. I had intended to replace the wire, but I am still waiting on a fuse holder. Dang Amazon variable shipping. I may have to search some more, I don't even think it has shipped yet.

This morning I got my 8 year old granddaughter to help me bleed the clutch. It was a (Metric)ton easier than I expected. It took us about 15 minutes after I got the bleeder freed up. She was a great help, at that age, she's more than willing to just follow instructions. So we went for a test drive. Drove out to the local non-ethanol gas station and filled it up. Seems like the fuel gauge is fairly accurate. I put in 14+ gallons, the gauge was right on top of the red after dumping 5 gallons into a dry tank, starting and idling yesterday. Now it's reading just under full. And it's running like a top. However, I'm pretty sure the alternator isn't working. Oh well, it's what I expected. If I get all the worms gone by the end of summer, I'll be happy.

Just as a spit ball, but I would bet a CJ or YJ tank would fit, too. My CJ has a XJ fuel pump adapted to run the 4.0 fuel injection, I suspect it wouldn't be horrible to adapt a Comanche sender to that.

Google Delco 8077 or Delco 8078. Summit Racing has an SI to CS harness for $8.00. They also sell the harness with the appropriate diode for $25.I would copy and pasts links, but my tablet sucks rocks that way.

Did you find a plug? I wouldn't solder directly to the terminals. That looks lime a used alternator, did is come with your engine? Should be able to find a donor plug in a yard, GM built millions of those cars.

I just replaced the fuel pump in mine, got it from Summit Racing. It's the same pump that the company that refurbishes sending unit uses. It came with two bands that isolate the pump. They don't allow the clamps to work right, though. The OEM isolators on mine were soft, but not sticky, so I reused those to get things to clamp in place,then added two nylon cable ties. We'll see how long it lasts, I may have to revamp it before long. US Motorwerks, or something like that. If you want, I'll look up the part number.

Woot! It started! I swapped the old injectors because the O-rings leaked like a sieve, and low and behold, it fired right up. It actually sounds pretty good. And, the clutch slave might be OK, and just needs bled. It doesn't disengage enough to allow you to shift it into gear, but when it's started in gear, pushing the clutch in keeps it from stalling.

Added Edit:Now I feel stupider yet. The problem wasn't the quick disconnect, it' the fact that the steel fuel line is rigid. And with careful picking, the steel spring wire clips just slide out of the way. But mostly it's the rigid bolted connection. Ok, I feel stupid having to ask, BUT.... Pride is less important than breaking an unobtanium part. First. The plastic clips on the quick disconnects for the fuel and return line? Just squeeze with pliers and wiggle them out? It's only the newer style that uses the special tool? The plugs for the injectors. Do you use a pick and pull the wire retainer clip away before you try to unplug them? What other little gotchas are there? I think I need repair kits for my fuel line connections, and probably o rings for the joint at the fuel pressure regulator. It was bleeding like a stuck hog when I tested the fuel pump. I have already bled the pressure with the Schrader valve.

No email reply. I looked (e-stalked him) at Cherokee Forum: Hey guys, sorry but for the time being I am going to have to shut this down. I am dealing with a nasty cancer diagnosis and just don't have the time or energy to do the injectors and make sure you get a quality injector/rebuild right now.Hopefully down the road I can come back and get this rolling again, if not Thanks for all of the business. I tried to do a good job and make everyone who bought from me a happy customer.Thanks Again.Jeff I saw he had been on, and made some posts, but it looks like he is a little under the weather right now.

Wow, thanks, that was fast.

I got my fuel pump installed, and now when the fuel pump runs, gas hemorrhages from the fuel rail. Since there is evidence my truck may have sat for 8 years, I'm not surprised the o-rings are done. My throttle body is filthy, I suspect the injectors are, too. Instead of replacing the o-rings, I want to replace the injectors. I've seen a lot of info that says the Bosch Part Number 0 280 155 746 for Volvo injectors are the ones to use. But where do I get a remanufactured set? I really don't want to fight with Cheap Chinesium quality control and have to send a leaking part back. KSuspension has a lifetime warranty, looks like a small business, and is kind of localish (next state east). A little expensive, at $139. Suggestions?

I replaced the fuel pump. I ended up dropping the tank, because I was fighting the lock ring. Got the tank back in, and Woot! I could hear the pump run. But then, it wouldn't pump fuel. I pulled the line off, nothing out of the pump. I could suck fuel out of a 3/8 hose that I put on the output, so it was together. One of the things I didn't like with the new pump was that polarity wasn't marked, so I assembled it physically like the old pump. I didn't test that it pumped before I assembled it. Hmmmph. So I pulled the pump out, cut the top off an empty gallon oil jug, clamped it solid, plunked the sender assembly in, added enough gas to cover, and applied power. Bubbles. So I reversed the polarity, and the quart of gas almost disappeared into the can I had the hose in. There's that @$$ U ME thing jumping up to bite me. So, I thought to myself, "I'll give it one shot to put the assembly back into the tank. Sure enough, first try! So, I tried the key again, I could hear that the pump sounded like it was under load. I worked the key about 5 times to prime the fuel rail, and walked to front to see if there was fuel at the Schrader valve, and there is fuel all over the top of the intake. Well, Darn! I guess all of the O-rings on the injectors are shot. Looks like it was leaking where the fuel pressure regulator attaches to the fuel rail, too. As dirty as the throttle body is, I think I'm just going to install new injectors before I try it again. Recommendations on where to get them? I want to go with an upgrade injector. I have gotten through 1 - 5 on Cruiser54's list, throttle body cleaning, I plan to make my way through 11 before I get injectors. I also finished taking out the floor mats, and underneath, Surprise! Almost no rust, one spot that is barely surface discoloration. I'll go after that with a Scotchbrite and then coat it. I think I will go with a spray in coating, and some floor mats, so I don't risk trapping moisture. The potato cam photos make it hard to tell, but it's really amazing to me how nice this is for a Jeep.

Thanks for the advice. I am more thankful than ever this is a California truck. It took me about 5 minutes to drop the tank. With it out and on it's side, things went together easily. I did use a light skim of Vaseline. Got the tank back in, and Woot! I could hear the pump run. But then, it wouldn't pump fuel. I pulled the line off, nothing out of the pump. I could suck fuel out of a 3/8 hose attached to the discharge side, so it was together. One of the things I didn't like with the new pump was that polarity wasn't marked, so I assembled it physically like the old pump. I didn't test that it pumped before I assembled it. Hmmmph. So I pulled the pump out, cut the top off an empty gallon oil jug, clamped it solid, plunked the sender assembly in, added enough gas to cover, and applied power. Bubbles. So I reversed the polarity, and the quart of gas almost disappeared into the can I had the hose in. There's that @$$ U ME thing jumping up to bite me. So, I thought to myself, "I'll give it one shot to put the assembly back into the tank. Sure enough, first try! So, I tried the key again, I could hear that the pump sounded like it was under load. I worked the key about 5 times to prime the fuel rail, and walked to front to see if there was fuel at the Schrader valve, and there is fuel all over the top of the intake. Well, Darn! I guess all of the O-rings on the injectors are shot. Looks like it was leaking where the fuel pressure regulator attaches to the fuel rail, too. As dirty as the throttle body is, I think I'm just going to install new injectors before I try it again. Recommendations on where to get them? I want to go with an upgrade injector. I have gotten through 1 - 5 on Cruiser54's list, throttle body cleaning, I plan to make my way through 11 before I get injectors.

Thanks, I will pop it off and look. Freaking lockring is fighting me. New gasket was quite a bit thicker, I didn't even try it. I think my problem is the the new pickup screen is slightly taller, forcing the mount to can't. Two of the tabs can catch, but I haven't yet got it under the tab closest to the back of the truck I'm afraid I may need to drop the tank, so I'm not on my back reaching up. Errrr

I am working on getting the new to me 1987 4.0 Comanche running. I have power to the fuel pump plug, I will be swapping in a new pump today. As I was checking, I measured the resistance at the ballast. I was reading ohms. What's the correct resistance at the fuel pump ballast?

I got my new battery cables installed, and yes, I did have power at the fuel pump plug. I popped the old one out, and the rubber line from the top of the pump to the hard lines was completely rotten. I did check, with 12 volts straight to the pump, nothing. I already purchased a new pump, so we'll see if it will fire up after I get it put together in the morning. What's the correct resistance at the fuel pump ballast? It was measuring 2 ohms.

The 17" take off wheels? I assume those are 5 on 5" lug spacing? What adapter did you use? Are you having any balance issues on the freeway? I've always liked the Rubicon Moab wheels, but the 5 on 4.5 spacing are harder to find.

My understanding is that the AX-5 really is no better than the BA10/5. It was stout enough for a stock 4 cylinder, but start adding more driven weight or input torque, you will most likely end up with issues.

Gas tank was dry, it was drained. I suspect that may be why it probably needs a fuel pump. I hadn't finished tracing electrical faults before I realized the battery cables were rotting. I plan on working on it this weekend, build new cables, clean some plugs, see if it has fire to the pump. I am also afraid it needs something for the clutch, the pedal feels like you're stepping on a rotten plum. I hate to swap out the slave, but it will probably be a while before I find a 4wd manual with an external slave. After I get it running, I will worry about that. I can hope it just needs bled, the clutch master was empty. Pretty sure it drained out of the bottom of the bellhousing years ago, but why go borrowing trouble? I did fill it up, it doesn't seem like the fluid level has gone down, so I will just try bleeding it, first.

Hmm, I just noticed the tag last night. This may have been sitting a little longer than I had thought.

Ok, thank you. It's 2wd. I got the seat out, seat belt bolts hardly fought me at all. Little bit of grief on a couple of the nuts, but the studs are still in great shape. Other than right under the driver's feet, the rubber mat is in great shape. And I only found 2 dimes and a penny. Pretty sure the original owner/ last driver was pretty meticulous.

We have had some rain the last week or so. Vinyl floor and padding are coming out. How do I get the console loose? I have the boot off, and see a screw on the right side, on the left do I pop out the little change tray?

I remember the 80 Buick Skylark my mom bought new with that engine. It was perfect for a 50 year old accountant. Biggest gripe was the lack of power, then poorly designed main bearings, and overheating/ head gasket issues. Well maintained, you could get by. Be prepared to have it towed some day. And be thankful if it never happens to you. And there is really no other sensible choice than to upgrade to a much better later model 60 degree V-6. GM increased them incrementally over the years, but 30 or 40 years of improvement goes a long way.

I think its not so much calibration as completely different technology. I don't believe they use a mechanical wiper on a fixed resistance wire any more.

How is the Fuel Pump working? I am pretty sure that I need one, trying to find the best available.