comanche12

:agree: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: lol

oh really, its should be visible on the bearing? which brand that you would recommend to get 79 tapered bearing? also where can I buy some? I never buy bearing before so yeah. I'm rookie with shopping sometime Once I knew that you will post up at this thread. thanks man! I'm glad to learn from your knowledge :cheers:

I know i have been ask alot of questions on mj tech but at least i start speed up to finish my mj asap sorry though anyway I noticed that my rear axle don't have any seal for shaft. so I went look up online. there pretty alot of different seals that look way different from different part numbers. Its 1978 ford bronco 9" rear with 31 spline and big bearing so can you guys help me find which seal that suit for my 9" rear? thanks again :cheers: the arrow that i draw on this picture is what I'm missing

Stripped the cooling system parts out Thermostat housing and guess what? Theres even no thermostat in it . :roll: now waterpump. antifreeze look good wirebrushed the surface before put new gasket on it Installed new waterpump and thermostat housing back on... so far no more leaking now rear brake got free vise grip that been clamped on my rear hose since i bought my mj. finally got it remove. Ill clean it up and grease little on part inside the visegrip this brackets r pretty beefy and fit perfect on my axle but unforuntely its not fit with my s10 caliper returned and order this one bracket. little thin than last one but its perfect fit to everything those parts r what I'm gonna use for my rear brake

done replace thermostat and waterpump... thermostat housing is now leaking. I already replace the gasket. :headpop: I did tighten them in TQ spec (14feet/lb) I'm think maybe thermostat housing is warping up so I'm gonna check their flatness with straighten ruler edit:just test it, yea pretty bad warped edit2: i just replace it with new one and new gasket(felpro this time, this gasket feel little more thicker than old one) so now hope this time no leaking. I just refill the coolant that i captured those from leaking. crossing my fingers edit3: i just checked it again. NO MORE LEAKING! :banana: now time to install belt back on then bleed antifreeze out by this method... 1) Park on a hill, facing downhill. It has to be steep enough that the back of the engine is higher than the front. 2) LET IT COOL DOWN! Then locate the coolant temp sensor on the back of the head. This sensor will have one wire attached (brown IIRC), and threads into the top of the head toward the drivers side. 3) Top off the tank/pressure bottle and keep cap loose. You will want to be able to tighten it down quick though, read below. 4) SLOWLY Remove the sensor from the head using a 1/2" socket. An extension and swivel can be handy here too. Be very careful to not lose the sensor, and keep it ready to put back in real quick! 5) Once coolant flows from the sensor location, re-install the sensor. (this will/should only take a second!) NOTE: the sensor can sometimes be tricky to get started, especially when plugging a hole where coolant is flowing out. You can slow the flow of coolant by tightening the pressure cap, just make sure it doesn't stop and suck air back in before the sensor is tightened down. Make sure your pressure tank remains full at all times! The last thing you want to do is suck air back in. Think of it like bleeding brakes.

thats exactly what i was confused about thanks! so now all i need is an xj proportioning valve? where can i find it? junkyard? autozone? all i need to reach that area is to remove the master cylinder?

does it look same as mj? therer two lines come from front to rear. so i don't know how its exact work with proportioning valve mind to tell me more about it? what about the rear height lever sensor? one of line go to proportiong, other line is go to front(master cylinder area- i can't see where exact it go), one line from proportioning go to rear brake. its pretty confuse so if you want me draw pic then let me know

nope water don't effect on cps since its only a magnetic sensor. only effect on it are dirt, metal contact, etc. same concept as with ABS sensor. correct me if I'm wrong.

I'm not happy with this part number that advance auto parts gave to me its gave me part with only two ports not three ports like my damage one. I need three ports. :headpop: I has been wait for few days for wrong part. the wrong part that I got look like this one do you think this one should be work since its have 3 ports http://www.ecklers.com/corvette-brake-d ... -1962.html I don't mind what size of brake steel line nuts since I'm gonna replace them all on rear brake anyway

thats what I was though 1o'clock or 11 o'clock is good enough its depend on caliper design with bleeder screw thank you man :cheers:

Anybody can be a engineer. It takes natural talent to be a good mechanic, er, grease monkey. True :agree:

Iwould clean those grease up off from ball joint before it starting catch(sticky) all dirts up if I'm were you. its my habit to clean them up after grease it up.

I just realize that my brother's first gen ram charger have similar our taillight so I'm starting try to influent him to do this diy on his ram :thumbsup:

be honest-I don't like Altezza Style. :ack: so keep the current one and try do this DIY- viewtopic.php?f=9&t=23023&p=242176&hilit=taillight#p242176 its come great and I'm still love that look for MJ style. sorry its my opinion tho. Its up to you man.

i know that bleed screw gotta be on top. thats reason why I'm asked questions to see if I have to put bracket on axle within an range angle degree. probably between 0*-80ish* is best way to have caliper install while bleed screw is still on top to able bleed air out. most i see the angle degree on pick up truck is about 45*-75* my goal is get its functional for bleeding and easy to access work on rear brakes in general.

Rear custom brake caliper brackets has finally arrived and its right size this time! :thumbsup:

I finally got my rear custom brake caliper brackets. So my questions are which degree should I weld my brackets on my rear axle? will top (90*) effect the bleeding? brake distance? I'm not engineer, I'm grease monkey. :thumbsup:

ah here you go, :) :cheers:

:agree: but with my Subie Impreza its even more ton fun. I know its awd but still slippary. still need winter tires. I hate how people be ego to try pass me on slick road like company van. I has seen couple crash from try to be faster in snow like try to pass me then zoom away. this one in colorado look kind same condition in my chicago area expect icy under the snow. my area keep plowing and add salt. My car is color black but now its almost full white now :nuts: :roll:

preparing the rear axle tube for custom bracket to weld on

done ordered it. its was last one around here. hopefully will arrive by tomorrow :banana: also can't wait for cj7 front rotor arrive tonight by 6pm :banana:

:agree: and make sure you do the right timing after install it

I hate to see sludge and mud in oil when I'm draining them down... lol :shake: my brother have power ram too but never ran it :nuts: haha have a pic of pink decal? my self love pink. I have strut tower bar that colored pink secretly install in my impreza :thumbsup:

thanks! there too many different block to pick. so thanks! BTW- are you sure its right one? there no pic for it and how do u know thats one is right one? yea its pretty cool, its allow us to able adjust the balance of brake pressure split to rear. full open is full allow 50%-50% front and rear. full close only let brake back to front. most of time brake pressure tend to be more than 50% on front and 40-50% on rear

:dunno: but first thing in my mind. that ship kind remind me from star trek's ship-i forget whats that ships name...lol