JEEP_cannible

Yeah there the older plates cool.I'll see what I can dig up.Any CA plates I find will probably be the old Blue,and yellow plates.

Did you get both of the AZ plates? I know mine will be the red AZ plates.I moved here from AZ,but grew up in CA.

I'll do some digging at the place in the country on Tuesday.I may have some different plates there CA,or an AZ.If you need one.I'll get back with you after I dig around alittle.I'll PM you before I send these out,and let you know what I find.If that's cool

Sounds cool I'll send you an extra OK plate maybe you can trade someone else if you want just let me know.I noticed after the picture was taken.I only have one of the new plates so I can't really get rid of that one yet. lol

anyone that you have extras of would be great V,WV,OH I don't have any of them.

You need any plates from Oklahoma? I have a few extra I'll post a picture on Monday for you. I think I have two different types.The old ones,and the new ones.

I think were getting old Pete.Yeah I don't get it either Google search is on every phone,and for the most parts one of the start up apps.How things change ?

Never mind I hit the search bar for Death wobbles,and found my info.I even think I found the problem already. Worn lower control arm bushings,and a bent control arm.One question are the lower control arms on a ZJ the same as the MJ,XJ ? Or do I have to locate another lower control arm ?

I've had the same problem with my XJ DW's. At first it started out small,and I thought it was one of the drive shaft's.Replaced all the U joints,(didn't help)it came back.Greased the tierod ends,and it got worse.Replacing the damper didn't help at all.I drove like Shelbyluvv for a couple of years,and even put new tires on it(didn't help).I have plan.s on swapping to newer steering parts off my ZJ with new tierod ends.Anything else I should look for ? The last time I drove it I had the 31X10/50's on it.Its was so bad it felt like the hole Jeep was shaking apart,and it didn't want to stop shaking untill I stopped completely.The DW's are a serious issue with these things.I haven't had any problems with the MJ yet,but I would like to be prepared.With the 6inch lift,and the bigger tires it dosn't sound like much fun to me.

I can't lie I liked see that truck fly too.I think one of my fav's is the blue truck It looks like something I would drive.I'll post a DD from back in the day.These were some of my daily drivers.The VW'S are actually the same car rebuilt,and improved.When the LUV was done it was a stepside,had a relocated gas tank with filler's on both side of the rear,and two spare tire carriers over the top of it.Battery was also relocated to the bed,and had a small ammo can toolbox.3 shock on each corner with an optional 4th at the rear.Last seen in Riverside CA being driven away by a 16 year old as his first car.Wish I could find the finished pictures.

I haven't looked through my pictures yet.I'm sure I have a few pictures from the Mickey Thompson stadium races in CA.The Craftsman trucks were actually built for short course racing.If I remember right there were 2 built for desert,and 2 for short course events.One of the (short course),drivers recently put his truck up for sale.I think I even saw pictures of it either in here or in the NAXJA forums.He's changed the paint,and it no longer has the Craftsman logos on it.Its really a shame,because the Craftsman jeeps were the most popular Jeeps in the series for about two years.They were pretty easy to tell apart back then.SCORE rules said that they had to have steel body's to run the 7S class,and all the stadium trucks ran fiberglass front fenders,and bed sides.

First thing I would do is take the tire off the side it pulls to.Make sure the brake isn't dragging,and there's no bad bearing's on that side.Those are the things that body shops over look.If they didn't have any problems with the alignment they probably got overlooked.

Here's some pictures I wanted to share most are from the 80's.Some people saw there potential right off the bat.A few are a little newer some people are finally coming around.

Pete's right on that one.The MJ roof is nice,and flat if you use the right stuff to seal the sunroof it should never leak around the sunroof again.Then is on the seal,and the hold downs.The XJ's you can seal if you know the tricks of the trade.Most were installed with Silicon,and will never seal right,because of the corrugated roof.Not to mention most sunroofs are flat faced. Easy fix most don't know. Put a small strip of the tape between the corrugation(the same old window tape),maybe two your trying to build the roof level. Then put your tape around the sunroof,and press it into the hole. This is were an extra set of hands comes in. While you are pressing the sunroof down.your buddy puts the bottom ring in place lines up the holes,starting at the corners,and work to the middle of each side. Putting the screw's back in. You should notice that as it gets tighter the tape will squeeze out.When he's all done take a small awl or screwdriver run it around the edge of the sunroof.Peal the extra up,and roll it into a ball.Then you can throw it away,or at your buddy your done. Great thing about MJ's you only have to go around the sunroof,and fallow the other step's.

That's no problem Rubikahn. One of the side affects of being old bro. I'm getting ready to do the 2nd option here on an XJ. I was thinking about putting the sunroof back in after I cut through the inch of Bondo someone put on the roof to blend it to the sunroof.Hello the sunroof is supposed to be higher than the roof.It helps the water run off when its sealed right.This guy call's himself a body man too.I had to laugh,because they told us in school.Anything over a 1/4 inch will not last more than a year or so.This XJ is proof of that for sure.So I may have an extra sunroof in good shape if someone needs it to replace there old one.I have to see whats under the mass of Bondo first.

We used to install sunroofs in vans an trucks,and did some van conversions.For the dealerships around Johnston city,Tenn. If your sunroof is good its not that hard to seal,but you will have to take it out.In the 80's a lot of company's went to Silicone to seal them to the cab.This is a bad Idea in most states,( hot,cold,hot,cold) this stuff dosn't last.Peals up from around the sunroof,and starts to leak.The best stuff to use is an oldschool window caulk that comes in a roll,and dosn't dry hard.If its leaking around the glass seal use some petroleum jelly(water proof grease works too). Just put a good coat around the edge were it seals into the aluminum frame,close it,and wipe off the extra.Let it sit a couple of days,(not in direct sun).Then open it up and wipe it off.That should soften the old seal,and stop the leak.If the old seal is cracked on the outside from the sun your pretty much screwed,unless you can find a better replacement that's option 1.Your 2nd option is to take it out,and replace the section of roof.Option number 2 is never any fun.I hope this helps you out.

I didn't realize how many parts I can use off my ZJ jeeps to upgrade my XJ or my MJ. This list is great thanks Pete. I'm already making plans to take parts off my ZJ,and a list now of what I can use to upgrade with.

gogmorgo you mean I'll have three working headlights.Or I can just cut the extra one out of the picture.That sounds easy enough thanks for the insight.

Has anyone suggested the bar pin eliminators yet? It only gives you 3/4 to an inch of extra travel,but making it easier to change your shocks(priceless).That also adds to the type of shocks you can use.I also have a little trick I used on my XJ front shock mount,(top side).It should work on any MJ.If I can find them I'll post some pictures.

My truck didn't come with vents,but my XJ has a quarter under each latch.Its never leaked again,and I always have change for the fleamarkets.You would never guess what you can buy for 50 cents.

There's a guy selling OEM XJ bumpers on Ebay too.Thats the only MJ bumper I have seen in month's.If I was looking to go back to stock I'd be all over that.

Hey Pete M have you installed one of those head light harnesses? How hard was it.I think the connector is some were on the drivers side? I just got mine in the mail today.Haven't had time to install it yet.Looked like a good upgrade.

I had the same problem,but only on one side turned out to be a front turn signal.The large socket had gotten hot,and melted.Hot wire fell out an grounded out,and popped the round relay.I replaced the socket with a newer metal one,and replaced the relay.Good to go.

I was hopping to get some color on it this summer.The bed needs a ton of panels straightened out,and the drivers side front fender.Uniform might not be the word I would use.I was thinking BIG blotchy camo like an M1 hummer,but OD green would work.The back rack was built as a shooting platform,but its not floored yet with plywood.It also holds two mil.spec.intrenching tools(shovels).One high lift jack,and has camo curtains that role down to cover the sides.When I fab the rocksliders I have two M1 grab handles I'm using as step ups into the cab.Not to mention a bunch of old footman loops to put on the bed yet.Now I don't have to drive it I can get back to work on it.

This is what it looked like when I bought it.Except for the rims,and tires.There off my XJ I got it with 5 steel wheels with the small jeep hub caps(plastic center cone).The bottom one is from fabricating the front bumper.