Gouda

I came across an old TSB last night during my searching (Chrysler Service Bulletin 18-51-88) dealing with spin no start conditions like mine, so when I got home I ran 2 wires directly from the ECU to the CPS and voila problem appears to be solved. I had bypassed the C101 some time back so I think that I must have had a bad connection when I did it. I used solder heat shrink, maybe the solder didn't melt fully or cracked or something.

I'll definitely give this a shot tomorrow when I can bring some better tools home from work.

I'm having a weird CPS issue that I'm hoping something else has run into before. A couple months ago the original CPS wiring became so brittle that it broke off at the sensor. I thought "No big deal, I'll just replace it." Put a new sensor on and initially everything worked perfectly. A couple days later I go to use the truck and nothing, spin no start. REMII reading 0 rpm while cranking. Tested resistance and while it seemed good I figured maybe I just had a poor quality new sensor. Looked online and found a different brand high altitude CPS. When it showed up, after replacing the battery (someone may have left the lights on, one of life's little mystery's) installed the new sensor and again runs great. Take it for a drive and it runs like a scalded dog. A couple days later, spin no start again. REMII reading 0 rpm while cranking. Good voltage at battery, no voltage drop along cables, good grounds. Checked that I didn't have pins pushed back or spread in connector. Tested AC voltage coming from sensor, right where it should be. Tested voltage on harness side, and after that it miraculously cranks right up and runs without any issues. Next day spin no start until I test voltage and then it fires up. I'm perplexed to say the least. I was thinking maybe an issue in the ecu so I have one coming but I'm all ears if someone has any other ideas

I had a '77 Toyota that my grampa gave me years ago, I think it's rusted away to nothing by now

You beat me to it

I had an issue where I was getting very low voltage at certain fuses awhile back. I would suggest getting down in there and checking your teminals for corrosion and cracking. I had one that was very obviously breaking apart and when I pulled the panel apart I found that virtually all of them were coming apart to some degree. Even the terminals that looked fine began coming apart when I poked at them.

Just replaced all of the terminals in the fuse box, and didn't take a single picture

I have a grey LWB. I'll probably be going on Friday, I have to work Sat.

While I have plenty of Snap On and Matco stuff in my box, I have way more of the lower end stuff that I've been using without issue for years. I find that it's much less the quality of the tool than how you're using it.

New to the forum, I'm smack dab in the middle of Knoxville

From what I've read, The Dakota's with the 3.9 Magnum V6 came with the AX15 and all of the Magnum engines had the same bellhousing bolt pattern. So if you use that bellhousing you can bolt your AX15 up to a 5.2 or 5.9 Magnum.

Headlight relay harness is already on there. I haven't pulled the carpet yet, because I know what's underneath and I don't want to see it haha I did see a little rust under the driver side while I was under it one day, so that's gonna have to be addressed at some point

Let me start by saying that I have a Jeep problem So I was sitting at lunch one day just looking at all the Jeep junk for sale locally when I came across this beauty 87 LWB with 170k-ish miles, kind of brownish redish interior, 5 speed (BA 10/5), 4.0 The guy was asking too much money, so being the brainless Jeep fanatic that I am, I just threw all of my cash at him. (I told the gf that it would be alright because I'll just sell the TJ and make the money back... which only took 4 months ) For the most part it's been a great truck. I drive it to work about every other week and it's never let me down. Now this isn't to say that everything does what it's supposed to. The ac doesn't work because the line coming from the compressor to the condensor has a hole rubbed through it. I don't have any reverse light's because the switch on the trans failed. Fuel level sender is kaput, so I have to rely on the trip odometer and judge the sloshiness when I jump up and down in it. Parking brake pedal failed probably years ago and I just didn't notice when I looked at the truck because I was so smitten with it. The aftermarket radio has some funky wiring so if I let the park brake out none too gently then it will cut out. (Oh yeah, I fixed the parking brake at some point) The steering had a ridiculous level of slop too it, so one of the third things I did was to swap out the steering box for a spare adjusted one I keep around. Now let's ignore all of that important stuff for the fun things I did to it first The absolute very first thing I did was find a full gauge set out of a Cherokee, because tachometers are fun and make everything faster I've also swapped out the headlights for a set of Hella E codes, and relay harness from KSuspension fab, and I changed the oil and that's about it for now Future plans for it include an AX15 swap with a brand new trans that I bought from Novak I figured that since I own something nice for once, I should put nice parts on it. I also have a set of 4.10's that I bartered for some Currie TJ motor mounts. They're for a HP30/35. I'm thinking of doing a Truetrak in the dana35 and leaving the front diff open. I know that no one likes the idea of putting a dime into the 35 but I drive like an old man now, so I think it will be okay. I also only have a crappy driveway to work in so I can't very easily swap in a C8.25. Once I have all of that done, I'm planning on going with a 3" lift from Hell's Creek, along with some 31's on TJ Canyon wheels I have tucked away in the basement

I could maybe make this happen