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    Akron, Ohio

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keeponjeepinon's Achievements


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  1. 5.25" BS is equal to a +32mm offset on a 7" wheel. Offset is just the number normally used on the car side of things
  2. It's a pretty simple mechanism, I've done it a couple times because it keeps getting stuck. I replaced the rivets with small bolts. I just don't pull it out anymore.
  3. Thanks. Yeah, I just haven't had time to deal with them yet. CC worked after I bought the truck, but then quit a couple weeks after I put a WJ booster in. They're not high on my priorities though. I was the same way about using bedliner, but wasn't about to spend 8-10k for a paintjob, and I figured it's way better than a Macco job.
  4. I finally finished this a month ago, but here's some pictures from replacing the rust in my MJ. The body count stands at 7 XJs, 1 MJ. It didn't look too bad before I started, but I had bought a TDI to replace the MJ for daily duty, and decided to start tackling the rust during quarantine. Taking the paint and bondo off, but mostly bondo: I started with the bed rail, and the spots in the bedside and the rocker. Summit only had a driver side rocker for an XJ, so I cut it up to make it work, and replaced what I needed to. I found a 89 in the Pullapart in Indy last summer, so I drove 6 hours there to cut parts out of it. Was able to get enough to work out the cab corner and the bed corner. Got the passenger side done, then the floors. I started to get rid of the bondo on the driver side just before winter started. Once it got warm again, I fixed the driver side. I couldn't find a Comanche wheel arch anywhere, but I was able to make 2 XJ quarter panels work by pie cutting the angled part from the passenger panel and making it flat for the fwd driver side. It is narrower, but I was able to make the fender fit with some persuasion. I also fabricated some pieces of the inner fender on this side. Got everything done, and started doing some of the bodywork, along with JY fenders I found that were mint. About this time was when I started going around to body shops and they all wanted way more than I was prepared to spend. They probably didn't want to deal with it. This brought me to the idea of bedlining it. The good thing about bedliner is that it hides a lot, so I really only went to 120/180 grit to get the bodywork close enough. I rolled Monstaliner's primer on shortly after this, then color matched jamb paint. Then I started with Grabber, since tintable Monstaliner has a specific dry/recoat time and it worked out better than starting with the bed like I was planning to. Then it was the Gray Matter stripe along the bottom and the Eliminator stickers once it dried for a few days. I put the 4 pinstripes a little lower than they're supposed to to help hide the little bit of a jagged line that I got when I pulled off the tape. The tintable stuff dries very fast compared to the black and it makes it hard to get a clean line with the extra time rolling takes compared to spraying. I would definitely spray if I were to do this again, but I didn't have the compressor for it. Then finally the bed after a week or two. And now it's done, until I decide to do the axles. Honestly now that it's done, I like the bedliner better. (And I was tired of only owning black vehicles) I'm also not going to sell this now, as that was originally my plan since I graduate this coming May, and I can only move 1 vehicle. I'll just move across the country in a 32 year old Jeep with cc and ac that doesn't work.
  5. It might pick up some data, but it could also be formatted differently from the Renix and the REM won't know what it's saying. The connector is probably a parts bin connector that AMC put on everything. Isn't the Eagle a computer controlled carb?
  6. Still in operation as a CJD dealer now, as far as I know it's the same spot. I moved away a few years ago, but maybe I can find what their Jeep Eagle sticker looked like
  7. Wouldn't be too hard to do, download Fusion 360, make a drawing with the plate flat (not bent), save it as a .dxf and send it to a laser shop
  8. This got me thinking, because my motor mounts are old and I was thinking about the brown dog ones. Rockauto has these polyurethane ones in the performance section, has anyone ever tried them? Seems to me like it could be a good middle ground between stock mounts and the hard mounts
  9. Interesting little bit that I didn't know, I used to live in that area so I know exactly where that dealer is. Some of the old receipts I have make more sense too, it must've been shared by 2 families down there for a little bit, possibly a time share.
  10. Yeah it seems like it's that way. I might just do the rear when I do the 8.8, then measure and make the front level, since I want to replace the front axle with a single piece d30 anyways. I'm not even sure when I'm going to do any of this, I just had to spend $2k on my TDI for a new clutch/dmf because the extra torque started making it chatter under WOT, right as I was buying the parts to do the timing belt.
  11. Ok. So they'll both sit at the same height? Wasn't sure if the spring rates were different
  12. I want to do an 8.8 swap at some point in the future, and my springs are pretty rusty and 1 of them sags a little so I've been looking for new ones. General Spring has 2 options for us, 3/1 1280lb capacity, and 3/2 1700 lb capacity. Would the 1700lb one be what a 4x4 would have? I have a 1990 4x4 Eliminator, not sure which one would be right for me. I'm keeping it spring under and don't want to go above 3'' of lift.
  13. 1990 Comanche Eliminator 4x4 4.0L RENIX / AW4 / NP231 / d30 / d35 / SWB Build date: 1-90 Current Location: Akron Ohio Status: Just finished restoring. I cut up 7 XJs and 1 MJ in the Pullapart yards to get enough metal. Notes: Bedlined with Monstaliner because bodywork would have cost more than the truck was worth. I used Grrrrabber Blue and Gray Matter. Now that it's done I think I like it better though, I just keep on buying black vehicles for some reason. (The MJ, my Golf, and my FZ-07 were ALL black) Truck was flat towed from Detroit to Florida by original owner every year, 150k showing. Dome lights were broken, so I took some out of a MK5 Golf since they fit the same hole. WJ booster/master cyl, looks like a 2'' lift, I put on Rusty's LCAs to fit 31s without rubbing. Pacesetter headers, 4 hole injectors, Flowmaster Deltaflow 70, JWS headlights. A Ford 8.8 and d30 with a 1 piece axle are probably coming sometime in the future. Current owner: Me
  14. My MJ is decently rust free for being from Detroit, but the rust it has is mostly concentrated to the back half of the truck. I decided to start with the spare tire carrier and tailgate handle, since they were easily removable and the cable must have broke at some point before I bought the Jeep. I was able to fit them in an 18 quart wash bucket, and filled it with 2 gallons of Evapo-Rust. I've used this stuff before, it's non-toxic and given enough time to chooch, will dissolve all the rust away chemically. From what I've been able to find, it is a chelate, which is a large molecule containing a ligand that is attracted to iron, and pulls the iron out into a sulfur solution. The attraction is only strong enough to pull iron from oxide however, leaving the base metal intact, clean and rust free. (Forewarning, it will also remove any sort of zinc/oxide coating or bluing from a part, if you want to keep that coating) 2 gallons covered enough of the carrier to do about 3/4 at once, I just flipped about 24 hours after I put them in. The stuff will last as long until it turns dark black and smells like dirt. After about 3 days, I pulled them out and only the hardened areas were left, which were mostly solid still, so I'm not worrying about them. If I had scraped the part first, I might have been able to dissolve these too, but I forgot. 3 days later, this thing actually still had paint on it! At this point, I manually scraped and sanded it down, then painted with some rusty metal primer I found at Tractor Supply, then with black paint. Since the cable broke, I was missing the bracket that holds the tire up, so a trip to the junkyard to pull one from a Dakota and doing the same thing to that solved that problem. To attach it, I picked up some 1/8 inch ferrules and fender washers from TSC, and used a swaging tool to crimp them to the cable. It installed much easier than it came out after some rust removal and painting under the bed, and looks much better. All I need to do now it put the spare back under, but mine doesn't hold air, and I'm finding out they weren't meant to be serviceable, so no one will touch it. I'm thinking about getting a full size 31x10.5 spare, and supporting it with ratchet straps if it will fit.
  15. There's a good table with Ultimate/Yeild Strength and Young's Modulus for all sorts of materials on https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/young-modulus-d_417.html
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