ghetdjc320

To be clear, I am planning to recreate just the thin plastic overlay that has the switch icons and the on/off symbols. If anyone is interested any getting one please let me know. I plan on recreating the oem fog & cargo light to the left of the column and the transmission and sport bar lights to the right of the column. According to my research the sport bar lights has the icon shown below and is not the same icon as the fog lights

I’m working on recreating the dash bezel overlay for different switch options. As we all know, the cargo light and sport bar light options are almost impossible to find in good condition. I am wanting to see if someone can measure all the dimensions for the switch (see picture below). Need to identify overall dimensions, switch location and backlight location. The plan is to recreate them identically to the original with functional backlit logos for the different functions. My MJ is in the paint shop so I don’t have access to my switch panel.

There is one company I found that still makes the sports bars but they are mounted to the bed floor and not the wheel wells like the original ones. Was thinking of having one made here locally if someone can get me dimensions.

x3 I’ve been looking for one for ever.

Here is my build info as posted by @eaglescout526

Mine came standard with a floor shifter. Have seen many others with them too. Mine is an aw4

My MJ has a floor shifter for the aw4. What years were they column shifters?

True, but the intake at least lines up.

Somone had a renix engine in my 91 MJ eliminator when I bought it. It was just the block and head that were renix but it was running on the HO components. I know the renix intake manifold technically fits the HO head but it does not match up like it should and just installing the renix gasket doesn’t make up for the difference.

I swapped in a 96 XJ block which was the first year it was updated for “noise vibration and harshness”. It has more internal webbing along with a girdle for the crank mains. It was an obd2 engine but I didn’t reuse any of the electronics. I just wanted the block. Easy swap. My post was not intended to discourage you from swapping, you just need to know the WJ block doesn’t fit.

Are you referring to the load sensing valve over the rear axle? There is a distribution block on an mj but no proportioning valve under the hood

The 99 grand Cherokee is a WJ and I don’t believe it swap easily. Aside from physically mounting it you will have to address electronics. 99+ are coil pack engines iirc. Renix intake manifold won’t fit either. It is also an obd2 engine. Nothing’s impossible but it’s far from a bolt in swap.

Cool, that’s a nice kit! I have also been eyeing their electric e brake caliper

kit shows it’s the d154 2 piston calipers. How did you get the 4’s? https://www.wilwood.com/brakekits/brakekitsprodrear?itemno=140-12567-dr&year=1999&make=jeep&model=wrangler&option=dana+35+rear+w/o+abs

Wilwood front and rear are approx 1700 and will be 4 piston fronts and 2 piston rears. Blaine at black magic brakes has the rear d35/44 disk kit for like $425 right now with free shipping. I’ve not noticed better stopping power with just switching from drum to disks. However, the advantages of a self cleaning system that does much better at dispersing heat is what I am looking for. Easier to service as well. To me, the little single piston calipers on 11” disks are just not that big of a difference when for $300 more I could have the wilwood 12+” rotors with dual piston setups. And yes, I would want to do the fronts as well down the road. For now though, I am looking into doing an electric brake booster setup. The mustang rotors and srt8 calipers are a nice combo but will require spacers and likely the master cylinder may need to be bumped up to 1.25 bore for those 6 piston calipers depending on the bore size. If I had a hydroboost or electric booster setup than I could probably get away with the zj style disks in the rear. My ideal setup though would run the wilwoods and hydroboost/electric booster. Right now I have a 8” dual diaphragm booster with a 1.125 bore. My cam doesn’t give me much vacuum to work with though.

I’m running a built 4.0 and with 4.56 gearing towing a 1 boat/trailer around through the hills I want better brakes. I used to run hydroboost with wilwood brakes on my YJ and that is the sort of breaking I am looking for in my MJ someday.

I’ve been wanting to get the wilwood kit for the Dana 35 rear. Would have to be modified to fit the non c-clip d35 though. I know some may say its a waste to work on a 35 but my axle is original to the truck, fully trussed (tnt customs), revolution axle shafts, 4.56 gears and a truetrac. Only running 33’s so it’s a good setup for me. I want better brakes for towing though and the self cleaning feature of disks would be very helpful for where I live.

Ok, here are the results we’ve all been waiting for. Went to get it vacuumed and recharged today. The expansion valve will sit about an inch further away from the firewall than the original. The results are... phenomenal! I’ve never had such amazing ac in any vehicle. The temperature is super consistent regardless of fan speed. With the old system it would only be cold up to medium fan speed. I can now blast it on high and it is the same temperature as the low setting. I attribute that to a much more efficient core design. I’m sure that sealing the box and insulating the air gaps around the evaporator helped as well. The heat index was 97 today (actual temperature 85 every day of the year) and it didn’t struggle at all to keep the cab ice cold even in traffic. Please note for future reference that the temperature probe mod works fine and I would recommend the newer core design over the tube and fin setup but it will take some very light mods. If anyone needs this posted as a write-up let me know. Thanks

They had a bunch of sets in stock when I ordered back in June last year. I highly doubt they “custom make” any of them. Probably just put in an order and it takes a while to receive them from wherever they are manufactured.

The bushings in mine came completely loose and started clunking. I got the 3/1 springs and they were very stiff. Paint looked like someone had poured it out of a bucket. Got them for $160/PR plus shipping though. Ended up giving them away and getting some good used springs for my SOA

@Minuit I know this is a bit off topic but I though you would appreciate this being that you have a deep knowledge of how these dashes are put together:

Turns out I have a plate and fin condenser as well. Took me a while to get it all back together since I wanted to do some rewiring while I had it all apart. Now I have a fully restored and functioning cargo light! Taking the Jeep into the ac shop tomorrow to get the system vacuumed and recharged. Hopefully it works well. I worked a lot on the actual ac housing and sealed all the joints. Also replaced the foam in all the seals. I can say that I’ve never been in a car with this much air coming out of the vents lol. Smells much better now that I cleaned out all the crap that was in it.

I used 91 XJ bushings and they were an exact fit for spring eyes and shackle mount. I ran the poly bushings but would have preferred rubber if I could find them locally

Turns out the noise is my carrier bearing. They are new but it must have been damaged when installed or defective. Will get all the diff bearings swapped out

I’ll try try to get vent temps once it’s back together