Warren99

Ok I don't mid a little bit of hammering if it comes to that. And I knew about the shift levers but didn't think that would really be an issue. I was just gonna grab a tc shift lever from an XJ and either leave the YJ shift stick on the trans, find some XJ/MJ stick and swap it (assuming that's possible, or just get an aftermarket one. All I really care about is the actual shaft's dimensions, I'm gonna do something custom with the handle, not sure what though. My brother put a 125 and 250 two stroke piston on his toyota pick up's shifters.

When you say the clocking can be overcome, what exactly is your definition of overcome? Am I gonna be hammering or cutting out the floor?

Ok so my mind is off the axle now, I'm just focused on the trans and tc. One of the main reasons is because I don't have a hard time finding 231's but it's hard to find one that I know for sure was with an ax-15 or trans that shares the same input shaft. I've been waiting to find one like this, where it's an ax-15 still mated with the 231, that way I can be sure it's the right input shaft, and it's overall less work if I don't have to bolt the trans and tc together. I have a ba10 that's why I'm after an ax15. I'll just wait for an XJ axle, I hear the 4 cylinder's come with 4.10 gears.

Yeah I noticed the March date, gonna call soon about the trans and tc, not sure if that's something they can tell me or if I have to go look myself.

That looks like they just took a Saab J32, chopped it up, and redirected the exhaust toward the ground. Idk why they used a fc cab of all things, but it's definitely interesting.

Idk about the center console but I'd also be interested in the bucket seat. EDIT: I'm not sure how to delete the post so I'm just editing it but I realized I wouldn't be able to afford what those are worth, I'm on a small budget as I'm still in Highschool.

I'm doing a 4x4 swap to my 2wd MJ and I think I found a good donor jeep. Its a 91 YJ, it has a manual, which should be an ax-15 as that's the only manual the 4.0 from that year came with(according to wikipedia). Are there any big no noes about taking a dana 30 off a YJ that I should know about, or any of the parts I'm getting? I was planning on getting the Trans, TC, and front axle, I assume the driveshafts won't fit so I'm just gonna leave those.

Alright, yeah I never saw the tab on the left one for whatever reason. Thank you very much

Thanks, I'll go check now

Thanks, I forgot to mention a few things regarding that. I'm missing the bottom screw, and the top one is already out. I got it out of the pry tab from the right screw, I didn't notice if there was one on the top by the left screw, maybe and hopefully it's actually there and that's whats keeping mine so close to the fire wall.

I have fixed or figured out the issue with pretty much all of my messed up wiring, and it all always comes back to the fuse panel. In a few fuse slots one of the ends the fuse slides into is either entirely missing or is broken so the fuse can't sit properly. There is also at least one scenario where a wire is just simply cut and not connected to the back of the fuse slot. I'll give detailed explanations about each issue next to its picture, but that's not the main thing I'm here for. One way or another, I have to get behind the fuse panel to put in new wires or female fuse slots.(ACTUAL QUESTION) Is there any way of getting easier access to the back of the fuse panel that I should know about? I have had a hard time just getting a mirror behind it to see everything, if I'm gonna mess around with wires back there, I need to get better access. The pink wire circled on top I believe is supposed to run into the back of the HZ/STOP fuse so it can actually supply power to the flasher. I have jumped it to the front and the hazards work fine. Because the brake light switch gets it's power from the HAZ/STOP fuse too, the brake lights didn't work. The previous owner "fixed" this by just tapping off of the brake switches hot wire and giving it power from the front of the fuse slot. Here is one of the weird ones. The TURN/BU fuse slot, is missing the bottom female end. So how did the previous owner "fix" it this time? (bottom up fuse) They took the hot wires that were supposed to be in the fuse panel, and connected them into one and then connected it to the output side of the fuse slot. At least they included an actual fuse now. Lastly, the DOME fuses input side is broken and is pretty dirty. After some time and luck, it IS possible to get the fuse to sit just right where it has connection, but I still want to fix the bottom whenever I figure out how I am going to access the back.

Similar yeah.

I'm planning on making my own front bumper for my MJ. Here is a general idea of what I'm going for. Feel free to give critiques or suggestions.

I nabbed a random Comanche from google images and edited it as a concept for how I might paint mine in the future. As you can probably tell, I started with the SporTruck decals and worked from there. It was a pretty low res image so you can see some pixels if you look close. Tell me what you think!

Ok

Also, I'm assuming Pin A Pink, is on top, and Pin B LT BLUE/BLK is on the bottom, but I'm not going to try the other way around, or anything else until tomorrow.

The pink wire was the one not connected. I added it and nothing changed. I quickly checked the bulbs and they are fine. What exactly are the round relay things?

Just tested the HAZ/STOP fuse, it's fine. The brake light switch has only 1 of 2 prongs connected. There are all kinds of wire connections dangling around there. If let's say one of them need to be connected to the switch in order for it to work, then could that also be what's keeping the hazards from wanting to work?

The wipers and blower motor work.

Not sure. The thing that made the previous owner sell it was that it hit a deer. This messed with some of the wiring for the lights. I thought he mentioned something about him or some local shop trying to fix some of the wiring, specifically the turn signals, but maybe the missing fuse was all they were missing? I think I have a voltmeter somewhere, I'll go check it.

Also, my radio (which is some cheap aftermarket) never has worked, and I never thought to check it's fuse. Its fuse is completely melted on one side, it's the correct amp, 15, but that would explain why my radio has never worked. On the other hand, could the radio fuse melting have affected any of the other fuses maybe?

So the turn signals make sense, but shouldn't the brake lights and hazards work?

Update: The TURN B/U fuse was missing, but the HAZ/STOP was completely fine.

No, I forgot to mention those. They don't come on at all.

I haven't actually looked at it. All I know is that the headlights show up on the dash and turn on, but the blinkers and hazards don't work for the dash nor the actual lights.