Blaine.D

I am looking for a Snap On MT2500 scanner to use on my truck and just to experiment with in general. The list below is what I am looking for and need to use the scanner on my truck. MT 2500 scanner Jeep-1 adaptor/connector Primary GM Ford Chrysler Jeep cartridge Troubleshooting GM Ford Chrysler Jeep cartridge Case (not nesscary but would be nice to get.) Also would be willing to trade parts for one. Thanks

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Are you just looking for the engine harness? Or are you also looking for the transmission harness?

I highly recommend doing it because it doesn't take a lot of modifications to do it just need all of the right parts.

Update got it 90% complete now just need to do a write up on installing the cruise control switch stalk. My experience with installing it on a tilt column is you have to remove the steering wheel and steering wheel lock to be able to thread it through the column.

Cruise Control Module Connect the module with the wide pigtail connector and mount to the lower dash panel with two bolts. If needed there is three adjustment screws to fine tune the cruise control, I will update soon on troubleshooting and adjustment.

Switches This is the vacuum switch for the cruise control, there is two styles of them. @eaglescout526 has the earlier style and the one in the photo right above is the later style. The later style can be also found in 80's Gm cars truck etc with cruise control. Both go in front of the brake pedal and the later style plugs into a wiring pigtail that is already there. The bracket mounts to the pedal assembly with one self tapping bolt. Next is the brake pedal switch. This is the same switch but has two additional pins for the cruise control harness to plug into. The two additional pins help to disconnect the electrical part of the cruise control when pressing on the brake. Clutch disconnect switch. This only needed in manual not autos. This disconnects the cruise control when stepping on the clutch. Mounts to the pedal assembly with a bracket and a self tapping bolt. To connect the switch to the harness plug the pigtail with two blue wires with white stripes. The cruise control wiring harness is the same between manual and autos except for a small piece of metal in the pigtail for autos to bypass this switch. simply remove it for install a clutch switch. Vacuum The bigger vacuum line on the right is wrap into the wiring harness. This line runs from the servo to the vacuum switch in front of the brake pedal. The small one on the left runs to the vacuum canister up front located behind the front bummer. Problem one is the vacuum canister there is used for the heater core valve and has only two ports. Here are three possible solutions to have vacuum for the cruise control. 1. Delete the heater value and swap the cruise control in its place on the vacuum canister. 2. Find another baseball shape canister and run a vacuum line with a t connector to share the vacuum between the two vacuum canisters. 3. Be lucky and find a football shape vacuum canister that does the same thing as option 2 but uses one canister. I went with option 3 for my install but all three options should work the same. I ran a t connector from the vacuum supply line to create two lines to go to both ends of the canister. Swap the football cansiter in place of the baseball shape one. One end connect the cruise control line and the other end connect the heater value line. Servo For 4.0L engines. The servo mounts on the firewall. Unmount bracket from the sevo and place it on the firewall approximate near the warning sticker about using the right oil filter. Use a paint marker or sharpie and mark the holes with the bracket. Then drill the three mounting holes. Install bracket with three self tapping bolts. Next install the servo on the bracket. Next connect vacuum lines and electrical pigtail to servo. Then guide the cable over to the throttle linkage through a hole in the bracket that the cable clips into. The end of the cable clips into a pivot point that does not have a cable on it. I am more than happy to take more photos or answer any questions about installing and troubleshooting.

@eaglescout526 Dang time has slipped from me. I apologized for the lack of responses and updates, other projects came first on the truck before i could get time to finish it and searching for parts. I will finish this thread up today since i recently got it done.

Thanks to fiatslug87 I have source a bezel and I am still looking for a 242 shifter or the shifter gate.

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I been searching at my local junkyards for parts to do the 242 transfer case swap with no success. Here is what I need to get to do this swap. 242 shifter or just the shifter gate. 242 bezel. Photos that I found that shows what I am looking for. Thanks

The one piece is stronger than the locking cad method especially if you get the later axle shafts out of a Jeep Cherokee with the bigger u joints 96+ from my understanding from looking into it for myself.

My plan is to swap in a one piece axle shaft to get rid of the cad. For me it's the best bang for your buck upgrade that deletes the Cad.

Ok thanks for the info. I plan on doing a Cad delete soon on my truck so that shouldn't be an issue.

I just want to double check this because I found no where saying this swap wouldn't work. A 242 from a 99 Jeep Cherokee should mount to my Ax15 from a 93 Jeep Cherokee with no problems. I know I need to change the shifter linkage, and shifter gate bezel. Thanks

You guys are good if I wasn’t lucky at the junkyard 2 weeks ago I would be doing the internal slave cylinder.

On researching into the Luk 05065, the release bearing has a plastic material for the surface that rides on the bearing retainer. Can anyone that have used this kit tell me about your experience with it and did you get another throw out bearing or used the one included in the kit. From the reviews on Amazon is the included one is trash and suggest getting an all metal one while there is a few forum threads that said that the kit one is better.

Np happy to help a fellow MJ owner out. If you need more help or more photos just let me know.

Sure. I sorry if the photo isn't the best but I can take another one if needed currently it's pitch black and raining. This is how I did the drivers side. I had no problems with the passenger so that side is just the oem spring.

I ran into the same problem when I changed wheels on my Mj that the drivers side e brake cable rub against the wheel weight. I got some springs from Lowe’s about $5 for a pack added one to the e brake cable on the drivers side that fixed it for me. I highly suggest getting some plastic tubing that they have in plumbing and add it to the drivers side because depending on load and where you put the spring the e brake cable will rub on the gas tank. The tubing gives a buffer and cushion between the two. Since I done this, I haven’t have issues with my e brake cables. I can get some pictures of how I did the springs on my truck if you need them to help you out.

I was thinking that was the case. Thanks for clearing that up for me.

@87MJTIM Got another question for you that I’m want to double check that I got the right info. Did you have to do any modifications to get the clutch master cylinder to fit? I don’t think that’s the case but somewhere I reading on one forum that someone was saying they had to modify the firewall to get the master cylinder to fit.

Ok thanks for the suggestion . Yeah I was kinda considering doing a Heavy Duty clutch set but also haven’t rule out a standard replacement.

Ok I just checked my input shaft and it is 0.75. Thanks for the tip on the pilot bushing . So far in my research I been putting in 96 Jeep Cherokee when I looking at parts(except for the flywheel- used 88 Jeep Comanche). Just curious @87MJTIM what did you go with for the clutch kit? I’m currently thinking a LuK 05901 or AMS automotive 05065SR100.