Backroads

I said it up there...it was 4.5" springs with 2" spacer (no stock isolator) For the back I used the 2wd MJ main leaf, a 3" AAL from a rough country XJ lift kit, the 2nd leaf from the MJ pack, and 2 shorter leafs from a stock XJ pack. So 5 leafs, and it netted me probably around 6-7" its got a slight rake but I wanted it that way. I welded the perches on the rear axle to accomodate the higher stance, I don't remember the exact degree i set it at but it was like 4-5* pointed up over the stock XJ perch angle.

finally rolled out of the garage for some grown up pics next project first cut 2nd cut new helmet for the job going back together little body work just a cool pic and FINALLY this was from last night, getting a little primer on to check my lines and see what else needs worked yet. so from here, its getting painted next, then rustys flex flares put on, then wheel it and hate that it doesnt crawl low enough, then do the 231/300 doubler :)

its not quite done yet....soonish though

on to the rear axle. chrysler 8.25, 29 spline 410s and aussie. Did a spring over and set my pinion angle cut the perches off to reuse since I'm a cheap arse cleaned up ready to mock up 2wd scrap metal in the meantime found the exact tires i wanted for a great deal. 33 12.5 15 Kevlar MTR and my daughter had fun with them haha! axle done bastard packs shock mount trials....might come back to this one...again key word was being cheap...... ended up with good angles on everything diff covers at the right price time to go back in and add the spacers (left them out earlier so I could get the rear off the ground without it being too sketchy rear end all buttoned up just about little fender trimmage, and pinch seam re-engineer :shake:

Well its been a LONG time since this piece was updated. Short recap, I bought this from FIRE back in may?? It had a hole in the gas tank and a busted rear yoke in the driveshaft. So I towed it home, and put in a new tank and drilled out the yoke on the axle and fixed all that....drove it in its piss poor state of stockness for a while as I collected parts. Just gona be a recap as ive been workin at it for a couple months now. new tank this is where the magic happens pulled out the 2wd crap trans and pulled the pan to do RMS and other odds and ends while access was easy ugly oil pan fancy pan paint, easy to identify leaks :banana: new clutch, then AX-15E and 231 tc trans in... front axle ready to roll under....HP dana 30, WJ knuckle conversion, tierod/draglink flip, big brakes (akebono) 4.5" springs 2" spacer and long arms ready to rock and roll :clapping: good clearance with flipped tie rod, even on stock tires close up of front end. I took the tie rod completely off and cut about 1" off each side to deal with the extra length WJ tie rods have, gave me more than enough room to dial in the toe settings side shot, again stock tires...still a baby LOTS more to come just to catch up to today

^HAHA

If you can find it in your area, get some kroil. Its similar to PB, but the stuff works like PB claims to work. I soaked those exact bolts for about an hour today and they came right off. Granted they may have not been as rusted as yours, but salt in pa is pretty bad too.

Just converted mine to 4wd. Swapped to an ax15 /231 combo. While it was pretty straightforward it also wasnt a quick in and out kind of thing. Lots of small things like changing the mc/slave. Figuring out your clutch and bearings etc. Rewiring a little. Adding in shift bezels and 4wd lever. Ive been workin on mine for a good 2 months. 4wd swap plus both axles and lift parts. Just stabbing away at it a little at a time.

A V8 ZJ front shaft is longer and will work if its not too long!

Doing a spring over on my MJ and I want another leaf or 2 to add to the pack, anyone got ANYTHING. I would buy whole packs (not lift packs) or just maybe the main leaf with the bushings? I'm in SE PA, willing to come pick up and pay ASAP

bueler? I wanna drop this clutch and I wanna be sure of this before I do that. I found another response in searching that said it fits but not flush, just wanted to see what everyone elses experience was.

One last follow up question... Is this gonna sit flush w the end of the crank or stick out a little because its def longer than the original puegot bearing

So in case anyone else in the ax15 swap world wants to know... I ordered both the bushing and bearing rockauto lists for a 73 cj5 with a 304 v8 and even though they are 2 different part numbers and show different dimensions they are the SAME part in a different box and diff part number...... /mystery :)

don't rule out a bad T stat from the store....been there done that. Gonna have to boil it to really know and make sure its opening. Had a similar situation where it would start, and idle and the temp would just climb and climb, I killed it before it blew the rad cap but knew it wasnt right, turned out to be a bad Tstat. Only other thing I can think is a blockage somewhere. Those old rad hoses had the coil wires in them that are good for rusting and clogged stuff up.

^ sounds clear enough. I was partially assuming thats what everyone was doing, but I wanted to be sure because I sure don't wanna have to tear it all apart again because I wasn't paying enough attention. Thanks for all the help.

As long as the tank is empty, or can be emptied the tank down and fuel pump swap is not a bad job. Theres plenty of room under there to work with the driveshaft out.The 2wd and auto trans IMO are not the most desireable features of the truck, but I like a man pedal in my MJ. I think you'd be hard pressed to find one that doesn't have some clear coat peel, so thats normal. Same with the rust, just depends on how bad.

Geonovast... I looked at part numbers before and i see that the existing on is in fact a " ushing" with roller style internals making it all a bearing. But when i went to rock auto to get the bushing everyone mentions, they actually have a listing for EACH a bushing and a bearing. The diameters seem such that one fits inside the other. They werent expensive so i got both, That was what really through me off track.

I had a set on my xj for a while. I had rough country ones, bought them soon after their introduction at a killer price. I had about 5" of lift and since the day i put them on, they were a nightmare. They would hang up on every rock i went over for one, however they took one heck of a beating. I wouldnt even think of getting them without having both adjustable upper and lower control arms. Fighting with setting my pinion/ caster angle is eventually made me take them back off and be rid of them. I think with the offset of RC brand DB's you really need 6+ inches of lift OR use them with stock control arms. Now a buddy of mine has RE drop brackets and has never had that problem.

I'm into the swap for taking out the BA10 and replacing with AX-15. My truck is an 88, the trans is an external slave from 96. I pretty much know what I'm doing here (i think HA :yes: ) The only issue I'm stuck at is this pilot bushing/bearing. I think my big downfall is other internet posters loose use of terms and not noting a difference. I see people talk about cj5 pilot bushing needing replaced in one thread, and pilot bearing replaced in another thread. So the crank bore with exisiting stock bearing/bushing combo, is too small to handle the input shaft of the later year model AX-15. SO Do I leave the existing BUSHING, and pop out the bearing. Or do I take both out and replace. And which part am I using to replace it? A CJ5 bushing (my initial thought) or the bearing. I'm looking on rockauto.com at the parts list and they have both listed as separate parts. If I made this more confusing than need be, I can reiterate. Or just tell me if this is correct. I need to remove BOTH stock bushing and bearing, and replace it with JUST the BUSHING from the cj5 haha. Thanks guys :wavey:

Have you searched car-part.com? There are salvage yards that will ship.

Id be happy to squeeze a few more mpgs out of t. Been getting the worst side of 15 mpg is every other vehicle ive owned for a while now!

Ended up being the o2. I tested the sensor and it was reading a constant 4v so took the shot and got a new bosch. Drove it a few miles up to full temp and seemed to be driving normal. It was worse when it was kinda hot this past week and tonight its a nice 60' outside so hopefully that solved it! On a side note I'm sorta surprised that was it. Granted this was my first tank of gas through it but i managed about 18 mpg. I figured it would be a lot worse if the o2 was going out!

Thanks for the ideas. O2 sensor was another thought. Expensive sure but at least it feels more worth it than the same money for a stupid little tps! Egr seems like a major pain in the neck, hope its not that.

Just got this MJ. Got it from a previous member here, seems like at times he had the problem too... It seems that when accelerating, or holding a constant throttle position, it hesitates, surges a little...not quite bucking, but a mild version of bucking if you wanna call it that. It seems like the warmer it gets (engine temp and air temp) it gets worse. My first thought was TPS. Just swapped that out..with a JY part mind you so theres a chance thats bad too. I just can't cough up $100+ for a new one. Any kind of way to trouble shoot this other than throwing money at different sensors? I guess CPS is another possibility.... Is there any kind of diagnostic I can run on it? Its an 88 4.0 5 speed. 2wd if that matters. Thanks! Also, whats the best method for testing a TPS. I have a multimeter I just don't get how I can probe the connections when its plugged in, short of splicing into the wire to make contact.

Took my old rotten gas tank out!