coolwind57

Yes sir, you did well. Anxious to see what you do with it.

Yes, my junkyard mirrors were wired for electric too, but I use the ol "row-down-window-and push-with-your-fingers" method of adjustment. My wife has driven my truck like 3-times, maybe. I had to adjust my driver's mirror only a couple times now since the conversion 8-Months ago. So it turns out that my laziness in not wiring for motorized operation wasn't so much a negative. Hey, gotta love that. My original sweeps/seals were shot, with severe weather cracking and even large areas missing. Those early MJ/XJ ones don't stand the test of time. This simple mod goes down as one of my top 5 favorites.

I had the exact same setup. ...and I did the same upgrade to later XJ mirrors. I've never looked back (no pun intended, haha). Yes it was a little trimming required, but totally worth it. You also need a trip or two to get used to the divider (the vertical strip separating your window from your "smoker's triangle window") showing up in your reflection. After the second cruise, I no longer paid any attention to it. Insignificant disadvantage, really. Go for it. You'll be happy you did. Also while you're at it, pull the horizontal window seal from the later XJs while at the JY. Again, a bit of trimming at the forward edge but you'll have superior lower window seal than what came on your MJ.

Anyone have long-term luck with using epoxy to fix the oh-so-common fuel leak at the fuel sending unit feed tubes? i would prefer not to have to pull that sending unit to rebraze them. I've got this stuff at work: i've used the non-Marine formula of PC-11 for many many items and I love the stuff. Just curious if anyone has used an epoxy such as this or JB Weld and had it to hold up well in this application. My leak is minor, btw.

Yep. I'd just hate to lose my door-mounted armrest because I sit up too high and I'd also hate to sit at standard height, yet feel like the new center console is too high. We'll know more in a few days when I get some time on my hands to mess around with it. I'll take lots of pics.

Yep, feeling your pain bro. Sucks being poor. So, here's an idea I'm floating around....what if I cut into the jumper seat side sheet metal to allow it to sit lower on the tunnel. Look at the room under there: There's like 3-4 inches of metal you can remove before getting to the foam padding. Will probably lose the pull-out cup holder in doing this, so there's one possible disadvantage. If you can successfully lower this jump seat, then you'd be able to lower your buckets and keep all three seats at same level. Cutting into this thing would be pretty invasive for sure, but I think there's a good change one can pull it off well. I think I'll have some time to play around with mounting these Dakota seats this weekend. I sure would like to be able to use the existing floor mounts somehow. Looks do-able. Here's what the bench mounts look like and the Dakota mounts. Front MJ mount (Driver's): Rear (passenger, I think....but they look the same regardless of the side): And the underside of the Dakota seats: Like I said, I'll likely roll around my truck interior this weekend to see if I might want to tackle a fab project.

heat gun. Not a bad idea. I didn't even think about that. Hate to admit it, but I even thought about drilling holes on either side and running a threaded rod within to pull and hold it back into shape. haha....always many options if only my brain could function up to par.

I'm brain storming here, man. Thanks for sharing your method. I'm trying to figure out if I want to budget around $200 in GrayWolf's soon-to-be available brackets or figure out if I can cut up my MJ bench mounts to use with my Dakota seats and pull this off myself. More importantly than saving money to me is achieving max interior comfort AND getting that jump seat to match the two buckets as close as possible. GrayWolf, can you still toss your elbow out the driver's window comfortably while cruising? Or are you back a bit too far? Also, you look like you may no longer get any real use out of the door-mounted elbow rest. Looks like it'd be too low. Is this the case?

How did you attach your jumper seat? Drill holes and use bolts, I assume? Any "massaging" of the tunnel prior to?

My factory air box base (not the lid) is bowed out. I have to fight to properly place the filter into it without the filter falling from the lip along the longer sides. Looks like my filter box is deformed a bit--bulging outwards. My truck is an 89. There's three later model XJs at the local junkyard; a 96, 98 & 99. I know some intake parts are different, but do you guys know for sure if the HO lower boxes will fit my Renix? There's a nice, sparkling shiny-new-like NOS lower box on eBay for $65, but I'm pretty sure I can get one at the JY for maybe 10-15 bucks.

Here's the funnel I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A6AS6LY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It was a great investment. I am not sure what you mean by "direct connect hoses." I have a write up in of what I did at Member's Project, "Coolwind's". Check out page 3 for the closed to open conversion and I think it'll answer most of your questions. Let me know if I can assist further. Good luck, Brother.

Yep, I'm not sure what to think now. GrayWolf is saying that the angle of his mounts place him back further and at 6' tall, he's comfortable. I'm 5' 11" and he certainly looks skinnier than me, so perhaps my lard a@@ will help keep me from being too high. I'll try his mounts out if they end up being able to build them for us soon. I may play around with my bench and Dakota seats to see if I can come up with a fab solution. I'll keep you informed.

By the way, where abouts in Indiana are you?

Ok, you're right INjake89mj, I'm tracking you now. I found this from GrayWolf on another thread: "Yes, they are three parts and bolt together. I had seen the post with the center section sitting higher and didn't want to do that. I bolted them together first, then blocked them into place and fabricated from there." I kept seeing comments about how others have the jump seat higher than the buckets. That was by mounting them separately, which you'd gain a little more head room. Gotcha. I'm up for GrayWolf's method.

Why is everyone commenting about how the jump seat is more elevated than the two buckets when installed in the MJ? You also see this in pics here on the forum.

No problem finding Dakota seats in Louisville Pull-A-Part. Seemed like practically every Dodge/Chrysler row had at least one Dakota with good seats in them. As for brackets, I'm thinking of waiting to see what GrayWolf comes up with the brackets that him and a buddy may be making. I'm out of MJ budget money for a few weeks anyhow, so I may have some time to toy with trying to fab something on my own. I'd love to see a full write up on what others did with these seats.

Are you referring to the buzz chime of having your key in the ignition and door open? As opposed to the the blue module's "oops, headlights-left-on" function? If I am annoyed, then I'll make sure I turn my headlights off so I don't drain my battery. That's why a forgetful old fart like me NEEDS this blue module.

I had just recently read about this headlight chime upgrade myself. A search will reveal more info on them--I need to go back and read up more myself. Too bad I didn't find any. They had loads of Grand Cherokees on the lot and they must had not come in them at all, as I found zero--just as in the 3 XJs they had. Yea, those Dakota seats hold up really well. There were probably 8 of these trucks on the lot and none of these seats within were sagging. This one was I think the only one that had a taller back (headrest). Not sure what is up with that. It came from a 1999 with extended cab. I prefer the taller back and hope that it won't be a problem fitting in my MJ. It shouldn't I would think.

Curious if you'd already added an additional ground near the blower motor. That's Cruiser54 tip #28, by the way.

Here's a pic. Fabric is dirty, but it is in fine shape with no tears or burns. I was trying to talk Pull-A-Part into charging me for a BENCH seat, but they counted it as two buckets and a "jumper" seat despite it all being bolted together. All in all, it cost me 70-some bucks. The blue chime module is attached to your fuse block and chimes if you left your headlights on after shutting down the engine. Suppose to be entirely plug and play. Here's a pic of it. Its the larger blue rectangular block to the left:

Welcome, friend. It's a fun addiction.

Not seen one of these. Man, I'd love to have this thing: https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/d/cherokee/6537123858.html

Trying to envision this, but your console is more elevated due to the tunnel. You had to unbolt once you had the seats situated inside, right? If it remained bolted together, then all seats would be nearly equal in height, right? Just bought my seats today and can't wait to hear more updates on the brackets. Thank you so much for taking the lead on this, sir.

Picked up some Dakota 40-20-40 seats today at the JY. Got some cleaning to do, but the fabric is in good shape. I noticed that there are two different seat heights on the late 90s- early 2000 model Dakotas. Most had seats that were shorter than these. Hope I didn't make a mistake, as I picked these because I liked the taller height. They came from a 1999 with extended cab. Anxious to install them, but it'll probably be a few weeks. I'm kinda waiting to hear more from GrayWolf with him and his buddy producing the custom seat mounts for these seats. Dude, they look SOOOO much more comfortable than my stock MJ bench.

I did find Dakota 40-20-40 seats today that I bought.