mkbruin

What is your goal? What are you trying to do?

What we all thought was that this mechanic would not be competent enough to do the gear swap for you. Find a reputable 4x4 shop in your area to do it, assuming you go that route. They should know how to do a proper gear setup.

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant ... y_Code=PFX

3550 (which I don't have) is the NV jeep version of the NV3500, right, and basically the same tranny in its innards? Yes. 3500 and 3550 are internally the same. the difference is a one-piece case versus a removable bellhousing.

Ya mean just eliminate it???? Yes. Real easy to do. There are quite a few writeups on the board here to do it.

Yes, its a used part site that hits junkyard databases. Hard? Chose your year, make model, and part. Sort by price or location, and run with it....

You need to find yourself a local 4x4 club and offer free beer to anyone willing to come and help. A team of monkeys can do the swap in a handfull of hours. Worst case, shop around for a new "mechanic". That's absurd. Also, check with all the local 4x4 shops for their rates. Expect a minimal parts bill, and $75-100/hr for shop time. It really is an easy swap. Also, rear axles in PA: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=29860 viewtopic.php?f=3&t=30192 Again, to do yourself: -Place wheel chucks on front wheels. -Jack up the rear, put jack stands under the frame rails. -Take off rear tires -Put jack under rear axle. Lift so axle is being lightly supported at full droop. -Put coffee cans under brakes, open brake bleeders and allow fluid to drain. -Un-do brake hard lines when fluid is done draining. -Disconnect e-brake cable -Disconnect Yoke straps at pinnion. 8mm. -Tape driveshaft U-joint with electrical tape once straps are removed. Either strap/bungee shaft up and out of the way, or place catch pan under t-case and pull the shaft completely. -Un-do u-bolt nuts (4 per side) or use sawzall/grinder to cut the u-bolt. -slightly lower the jack, and pull the axle. Install is opposite of removal. -position and lift using a jack, line pads up to leafs, and position spring pin inside mounting hole. -Add new u-bolts. -Reconnect brake lines. -bleed brakes -reconnect driveshaft.

If you're gutting everything, why not do the load sensing bypass too? Seems silly not to take that out of the equation.

Most companies won't list their spring rates. Factory rates at this link below: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27675 Aftermarket usually are ~180, to account for bumpers, winches, etc. If its sold as for the XJ, it should have an appropriate rate.

car-part.com You should NEVER pay more than $100 for a 35.

Free height is about the same, but TJ coils have a much lower spring rate. That, however, does not stop some lift manufacturers from using the same coils for TJ/ZJ/XJ.

You can use any year MJ rear 86-92 for bolt-in, but will want to make sure you match gear ratios to what your front is.

A lot of the chevy guys say "its doing fine behind my xxxxx" so you might get lucky. Either way, you'll be at or near the max for the power rating of the trans, so don't beat on it too hard. The 4500 on the other hand will take anything you throw at it. Also, 4500's are A LOT cheaper and easier to rebuild.

Its not too difficult to make a SICK looking bed.... here's a few examples: Image Not Found

Forget the 3500 and go for the 4500. Max torque rating on the 3500 is 300 lbft. Or if you don't need the gears, but want granny and bulletproof, go sm465.

1) support the body with jack stands. Support the axle with jacks at each end, and as close to free-height as possible. 2) air tools are your friend. Use a breaker (jack handle, etc) to break the u bolt nuts free then air wrench them of. Or just cut and throw away the u bolts. 3) 8mm for the pinnion yoke straps. Put t-case in neutral (make sure wheels are chocked) and spin the shaft for best access to all bolts. Tape the joint with electrical tape as soon as you pull it, and don't lose a cap. 4) Undue all brake lines. 5) using the jacks, roll it out. 6) Install an MJ rear. With an XJ rear you may have trouble with e-brake mounting and will need to weld new perches. If you are going to have to weld new perches, go with something better than a 35. 7) make sure the brakes are bled REALLY good. 8) always use new ubolts. They are cheap. 9) use jacks under both ends to locate the axle under the springs, jack up to free height to settle the spring pin in the hole. Should be straightforward. There's not a lot to it.

Yep, D35. Non-C clip.

I've been looking for an 89+ to oughtright abuse... but I haven't seen one posted in Denver for under $4k. I am looking for a sub $1k to lift and carelessly beat on.

Yes, the seals and bearings are the same as 81+ FSJ.... which are also the same as a D44 set 10. Part numbers below. See the manual for pics/diagrams. You can google search the part number to find it for sale, or a cross reference application. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-parts ... atalog.pdf Page 87 of 1741: DIFFERENTIAL AND GEARS, REAR AXLE AMC LARGE AXLE, NON-LOCKING COMANCHE # J3182601 NUT, Pinion # 83502058 YOKE, Pinion # 53002642 SEAL, Pinion # J3172135 CONE, Bearing # J3172134 CUP, Bearing # J3175971 SPACER, Pinion # J3205567 SHIM PACKAGE (18), Pinion *** # J3172564 CUP, Bearing # J3172563 CONE, Bearing # J8127072 GEAR SET, Rear Axle Ring and Pinion # J4486828 BOLT PACKAGE *** # J3235502 CASE ASSEMBLY, Differential # J8127092 GEAR SET, Differential # J3220250 WASHER, Side Gear # J3222999 WASHER, Pinion Gear # J3218195 SHAFT, Differential # S0455313 PIN # J3205532 SHIM PACKAGE (18), Case *** # J3172565 CONE, Bearing # J3172566 CUP, Bearing Page 88 DIFFERENTIAL AND GEARS, REAR AXLE AMC LARGE AXLE, LOCKING COMANCHE J3182601 NUT, Pinion 83502058 YOKE, Pinion 53002642 SEAL, Pinion J3172135 CONE, Bearing J3172134 CUP, Bearing J3185971 SPACER, Pinion J3205567 SHIM PACKAGE (18), Pinion *** J3172564 CUP, Bearing J3172563 CONE, Bearing J8127072 GEAR SET, Rear Axle Ring and Pinion J4486828 BOLT PACKAGE *** J3230153 CASE ASSEMBLY, Differential J8120326 GEAR SET, Differential J8120325 DISC PACKAGE, Differential *** J3205532 SHIM PACKAGE (18), Case *** J3172565 CONE, Bearing J3172566 CUP, Bearing J8121787 RING, Snap Page 89: SHAFT, REAR AXLE AMC LARGE AXLE COMANCHE 53001262 SHAFT, Axle J3220275 STUD 53000460 PLATE 53001953 RETAINER J3240086 SEAL J3230115 BEARING J3239074 RING, Retaining 53001524 SHAFT ASSEMBLY, Axle

Could not have said it any better myself.

The last time I ran RE was back in 98-00ish, when XJers had to use ZJ 4.5 coils for a 6" front coil (no one was making an XJ specific coil over 4.5 at that time). Good stuff at the time, but I heard they took a reputation nosedive over the past few years. Not that it affects me at all... my next lift is going to be IRO, TNT, or pieced together from those two or Poly/Ballistic, etc.

gotpropane.com has a kit for $850, but you have to buy your own tanks on top of that (~$140 for a new tank).

Hit up a local speed/drag racing driveshaft shop. When I SOA'd my 89, I had one custom built with a high-angle yoke for $125. Perfect length, fit specifically to my truck, and the shop built it to their high HP standards and fully painted/balanced. Its not worth going JY.

35 rear wheel stud PN 83503053 44 rear wheel stud PN 83503053 8.25 rear wheel stud PN 53008135 30 Front wheel stud (2wd) PN 83504792 30 Front wheel stud (87-89) PN J3238138 30 Front wheel stud (90-99) PN 53007463 30 Front wheel stud (00-01) PN 06036194AA

Hit up NAPA. Any parts jockey worth his pay should be able to catalogue it for you and order if necessary. It should not be an issue to locate.