92xjcowboy

http://scranton.craigslist.org/pts/1801250909.html Not mine but it could be a good donor for someone. If I didnt already have 3 jeeps and a van I would buy it.

Recently I ate the most expensive sandwhich ever, a roughly $5000 Rueben. Had an accident while making it where a co-worker's knife had a fight with my hand. The knife won in the end. Good luck and I hope everything gets better before to long.

I'm in the middles of a H.O. Swap in my 86. I have 1 complete H.O. Donor XJ that I am taking the entire Dash, Cab/engine wire harness, ECU and TCU, engine, trans, motor mounts, cooling system (open), front driveshaft. I am going to need to buy or make: 92 MJ 4.0 H.O. Fuel pump Rear wire harness to fuel pump, Tail lights, license plate light Rear driveshaft I might be forgetting a few things. I am going a slightly different route than most with the radiator so I won't need to change the radiator support (2.5 and 2.8 applications only) and I have a late 86 with the firewall fitted for the 4.0.

I think I am in love with this. (everything but the toyota front end) TNT Do you have any info on this? I pulled it from your Photobucket. Image Not Found Image Not Found

Been there, done that, shoulda got a t-shirt. Be sure to follow the doc's instructions. don't overstress the tendons early or you'll be back in surgery in no time. I'm tryin not to stretch it out I don't need to be out of work for much longer.

I believe its July 17-18. don't ask about the shovel. It had its uses. All I can say is I never new the rear quarter windows were so strong on a Cherokee.

I have good reason to have such slow progress with no updates. I had a little accident at work and 2 of the tendons in my hand were cut. I won't be able to use my right hand (I'm a righty) for a month or so. I am lucky enough to have a good friend that is willing to help me get the jeep on the road. Radiator/Fan with the mount being built My massive D-ring that will go on the front end This is what it looks like when they reconnect the tendons in your hand New parts keep accumulating New parts and a few of the things that keep this build going The tools that were used to take the Jeep apart

Good to know thanks. The old unpainted patch panel. (just placed there by the looks of it not even screwed in) Looking to the rear on the passenger side uni-rail This is my progress on the engine bay. I still need to get in with some sand paper to get the rust out. This is what it looked like before. The rust does have one use. Hunter is working on the dash here and w/o seats this is just as good if not better. Anyone want to buy a bench seat? To do list/Parts list

I'm not sure on a motor color yet but I'm pretty sure I don't want it black. I have untill I pull the engine to decide what color the engine bay should be. I only got a couple hours in at the shop today. I got everything that could be in the way of removing the engine disconnected or removed. I also got the fenders off so I could paint the inner fender and fender well. Not bad for 5 hours work total and considering half the fender bolts wanted to strip for me.

Very true and that would help it look cleaner longer.

I am swapping the 4.0/AW4 from my 92 XJ and the 231 from my 90 XJ into my MJ. I am basically condensing all my vehicles into 1 because I can't keep 2 on the road and one in storage. I am taking the lift and tires off my 90 XJ along with the bucket seats and any interior that will swap in and turning the back half of the 90 into a trailer. Details of my thought process can be found HERE But don't worry I will post everything else here I don't think I need to clutter this thread up with that though. I had a few ideas that will make this swap so much easier than it was going to be. The first and probably most important one is instead of redoing the entire front clip/radiator support/frame area to fit a 4.0 radiator I am going to do a bed mounted radiator. If I use a grand cherokee radiator with a taurus 2 speed fan it will help keep that 4.0 nice and cool. If I mount the radiator at a 45 degree angle and about 8" off the bottom of the bed I can still put a long piece of steel or lumber in the back if needed. The second Idea is to mount the Battery in the bed and put it inside a water proof box of some sort. These would help unclutter the engine bay and allow me to just drop the 4.0 in with minor massaging of the fire wall.

Today I started tearing down the MJ. I got the entire engine bay stripped down and all its waiting for is an engine crane. Once its stripped down I want to clean the engine bay and paint it either Black or Desert tan (not sure which) because I want to paint the whole vehicle Desert tan before the Pa All Jeeps show. I am going to do the Inner fender wells black but I'm not sure how an entire engine bay would look black. Here are some pictures of the progress. Boxes of front clip parts and random hoses and tubes. Why are there Ford vacuum hoses on the MJ and my 90 XJ?

I just got back from picking the Jeep up and will upload some pics later tonight. I am heading out to work on it a little and possibly drive it home from the shop. Edit: Here are the pics: Cab corner Drain plug at cab corner Are you able to tell from the picture if its a metric ton? I don't think it is because I have a D35. D35 with Torx bolts? You can see the sorry excuse for a drive shaft in this picture. Did the factory ever apply bedliner to the rockers?

Are you planning on swapping the 8 lug 3500 series axles with 10 lug 4500/5500 series axles? Other than that detail its a very nice build and it looks good. :chillin:

Go Cowboys! :waving: :peek: If Dallas can keep themselves healthy and focused then they might have a chance to win it.

If your planning on chopping behind the cab then there isnt a whole lot that a write up can do for you. Everybodies setup is going to be different and depend on their specific plans and ideas. You should just look around on different 4x4 sites and see what people have been doing and work with a calculator (or not) and build it.

It won't work. Think about the Diff cover fill hole. Its designed to put a certain amount of fluid in the diff and if you lower it by flipping the axle it won't hold as much fluid and you will burn the gears. Also you have the axle breather tube that will be facing down and dumping fluid.

More pics from the seller. I am waiting on the money from the person buying my truck and this will be all mine to start playing with. Anyone want to buy a red interior?

The MJ is going to be the test bed for the engine, Meaning that I am going to build it in the MJ and run it in the MJ untill the buggy is ready for it. Once it is broken in I will be swapping the engine back into my 92 XJ with all the bugs worked out. I have yet to decide what engine is going to go into the MJ afterwards maybe a V8.

Okay thats what I thought but I wasnt sure. as for the aw4 I am going to build it using the supra parts and possibly working with some manufacturers to make new parts to hold the power. (If it can hold a hard launch with 800hp then it can hold a DD driven stroker. Main reason is that I like my AW4 and it has alot of potential if done right. Thanks Matt

Well I should be picking up an 86 MJ from a guy out in Lancaster on tuesday for $400. It has the gutless 2.8 with an auto tranny (Is this the torque flite a904 or the AW4?) and is 4x4. (if its an AW4 will it bolt up to my 4.0l? I want to have the second AW4 trans for my 92 XJ Buggy.) I say this is the test vehicle because I am going to build/breaking in a special stroker motor using the MJ. If you read JP magazine I am going to try to build and run their Insane Inline 6 engine (693hp 777lbft) Only I want to break the 800hp goal they were running at and throw it in the 92 Buggy. I plan on racing the 92 in all the major offroad/rock race series that I can. My friend builds engines for his race car and others so I will be working with him to build this and a few other specialized parts like the titanium driveshafts, AW4, and 609 axles. Craigslist ad: Email from the seller If I do get it the first thing I am going to be doing is swapping my Engine (4.0 H.O) and trans (AW4). From what I have seen this is (off the top of my head and a few reminding comments) a list of things that I should be swapping right away: Engine -Wire Harness -Computer -Accesories -Fuel pump (gas tank also?) -Motor Mounts -Dash Harness (Ill swap the gauge cluster to keep an accurate mileage reading and to know that it works) -Radiator and mounts Trans -TCU -Wire Harness -Trans mount (Crossmember?) -Shifter assembly (everything involved) Transfer case -242 swap (because I like the full time option and I won't break it with my setup) Shortened driveshaft for the rear I would tackle the floors next, Beating sheet metal into shape and then bead rolling, welding, and coating with POR 15 and a bedliner. What bedliner do you use? I have used Herculiner but I didnt like how after it got muddy it never went back to black, I think I have seen a urethane coating that helps with this but I don't know if it works. What about 3M Rubberized undercoating? (for floors top and bottom) I also have the lift coils and shocks from my xj (3"). I don't have the leafs though as I sold them, What have people done for junkyard lifts (bastard packs) with the leafs? I plan on running 33" tires and 4-4.5" of lift. New brakes all around (remove the Load sensing valve) Fluid changes Rust repair as needed Next would come an updating of the interior/exterior: 97+ front clip (maybe) 97+ Doors (maybe) 97+ fenders (maybe) Bucket seats from something (leaning towards stock xj seats) 97+ center console w/cupholders :brows: Headliner (don't know what color/pattern) Window tinting Rear sliding window swap (I can't stand non sliding windows in trucks) Homemade offroad bumper. Simple strong and pretty (I have an idea for these I just need to draw them up. When I get back from Basic training in June I am going to do a desert tan paint job, get new tires for it, Lock it, Armor, And wheel the piss out of it. So what should I be doing and what should I not do? Matt Here are the pics I was sent:

Yeah, but then you would have had the fuel gauge polarity/accuracy problem unless you could find an MJ HO sender. And those are tough to find - only for two years were they made........... What if I have a HO XJ sender? I have a spare HO XJ in my shop that I am going to strip down for the MJ.

take a right in Allentown and follow that past small town USA and stop before you reach bumble****.

If you don't mind a slightly stiffer ride (the spring rate is 10lbs or so heavier) then I would recommend the Rough country 3" kit. which one you go with is up to you, I have the stage 1 with the AAL's and I love it. I would go with a full leaf pack next time though if I could get the money together. I know that Rough country gives a 10% discount to members of Jeepforum but I don't know about this forum.

Totally. With a 3" lift, most quality kits will provide you new coils, new front brake lines, lower control arms and maybe a new track bar (or relocate the axle mounting hole). The rear would probably get a new (extended) shackle and an Add-A-Leaf (AAL). It will take about four hours if you have never done it before and would require a front end alignment (I just use a tape measure). As far as steps...........your lift would come with specific instructions but basically unbolt all the OEM stuff and replace it with the new AM stuff. :hijack: what 3 inch kits come with front brake lines? i'm gonna be going with a 3inch, most likely a rough country kit paired with hell creek rear leafs, and i've been looking at all the major company's kits (rough country, skyjacker, crusty's, hell creek, etc) and i've yet to find one that comes with front lines, hell most of the ones ive seen don't even have the rear extended line... maybe i'm looking for lift in all the wrong places... :dunno: I think Rubicon Express comes with lines but they might be rear lines. (I'm also thinking XJ kit MJ might be different)