Rymanrph

I sold my '05 SRT-4 to build the Comanche: Here is the TJ after the last time I washed it (way too long ago). Just picked this up a couple weeks ago (07 MX-5 with power retractable hardtop). Going to sell my TJ now :( .

The taillight wiring is done and last I checked, everything works. The only wiring I have left to figure out is the B-pillar lights. I can get them to turn on when I toggle them, but they don't come on as courtesy lights when the doors open. I've got three wires (purple, pink and yellow) and no combination makes them work with the B-pillar lights, but they work with the stock '97 dome lights. Other than that and lengthening a couple plugs, my wiring is done. So, here is my checklist on what's left: -Finish small wiring details -New brake lines from the '97 master to the '90 proportioning valve (and bleed the system) -Rear drive shaft (need to order) -Fab backing plates for the new door strikers and swap the doors over -Need to find an airbag clock spring and electric fan -Fix driver side fender flare -Paint red front pieces black -Fix emergency brake (even with all the adjustment, it never gets tight) -Modify passenger seat belt (already did the driver side) -Reassemble interior -Exhaust (not sure what i'm doing yet - I need to connect the new header to the old tail section) -Charge AC system I can't believe that this is all I have left. I cannot wait to drive this thing again. I just hope it runs well. It cranks fine and runs in the garage without a problem, but putting it in gear and taking it down the road is a whole different story.

Funny coincidence, I just bought a Miata. I'd love to meet for dinner, just let me know when you're finished. I'm doing a little every day to try and get mine driveable again.

Seeing your build was one of my inspirations for buying a Comanche. Congratulations Jeff!

Looks like Christmas.

Looks great man. I didn't get that detailed with mine. Sometimes I wish I had; maybe when I get around to painting it I will.

I see that the adapter you used for the gas tank sits pretty high. What did you do to clear the bottom of the bed? I'm jealous of the paint; my swap is almost done, but my paint is still very rough.

I got my spring perches from Summit. Part# DCC-4120074. $12.88 + $4.95 shipping. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4120074/

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2222464653.html Little pricey, but still seems like a nice truck.

I have the XJ pump/sender in an MJ tank. I haven't been able to cycle a full tank yet on mine, but when my gauges swept and dropped back down, the gas light came on with about 1/3 tank showing on the gauge. The truck was still running completely on E too. Once I get the truck driving, then I can give a little more accurate results.

Sent you a PM! As far as the length goes, just mock it all up with your slip yoke in place and measure. Just make sure you leave some slip room.

This weekend I worked on the wiring a bit more. My goal was to figure out the tail lights, but because of issues with a bad multifunction switch and flasher it took a while to figure out. As of right now, I know I've wired the running light/brake light and the turn signals correctly. I haven't got the reverse lights to come on yet, but there was only one way to wire that one, so my bulb could be bad or something. It's been a little frustrating, but putting in the new flasher tonight and having working turn signals and flashers really made me happy. It was a small victory that I needed.

I got mine from Tom Woods. It wasn't cheap, but it was quick and I don't have good access to a decent drive shaft shop.

Not sure if you've said or not, but what color are you painting it?

I have a similar problem. I installed a 8.25 and then bought a brand new shaft to fit. And then I swapped in an AW4 and a 242 and now its too long. Do you have an auto or 5 speed?

I disconnected the harness and put the key into the run position. Maybe 20% of the time (if that) I could jump the pins and get the gauge to go all the way up. It wouldn't stay but for a couple seconds and then fall back down. So, I decided to plug it back in and crank the truck. The gauge went all the way to full and then slowly came back down to E. The gas light came on (for the first time) at around 1/3 of a tank and then stayed on. I only put maybe 4 gallons in the tank (and some didn't stay when my fuel line failed) and I don't think the float is completely accurate, so I'm going to wait until the truck is drivable and then I'll fill up the tank. Hopefully then, I'll get the needle off empty. Also, now when I put the key into the run position, the gas light will come on. It didn't do that before, so I'm hopeful. Now I just need to swap the doors and figure out where to buy some weather pack connectors to lengthen the tail light harnesses. The rest is a bunch of details.

The needle is completely pegged on empty and never moves. The gas light doesn't come on either. How would I send voltage? Can I use a test probe or something?

The sender is in the tank and I'm trying not to have to drop the tank again. Do you know of any good way to test the sender? Someone at the auto parts store suggested bridging the pins on the connector to the gauge cluster, but I wouldn't know which pins to bridge and what to look for. I know the ground is good because as soon as I disconnect it, the truck won't start.

I got the front bumper on and the fenders loosely bolted on (they'll have to come off when I swap the doors). I just wanted to see what it would look like. I'll shoot them with some black paint when the weather warms up. I still can't figure out the gas gauge. If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears.

When I had my SRT-4, there were a couple styles and I didn't really like most, but I must admit that I had a pair on mine for the majority of the time I owned it. If you like them, that's great; enjoy em.

Too bad you couldn't use my header, but the new style looks good. Shoot, I'd trade you for the the '97 because mine is red right now. Looks good; I like the bar, but can't say I'm too crazy about the eyelids or whatever you call em.

I'm stumped. I've got the truck running, but I can't get any indication on the fuel gauge. There are only 4 wires coming from the pump/sender. Three wires that come back to the main harness and a 4th ground. I broke out my multi meter, but I don't get any indication from any of the pins (I'm sure I'm doing it wrong since I know the pump works). Any ideas?

Thanks guys! I got it to crank this week, so hopefully the progress with move along pretty quickly from here. After I get the kinks worked out and some of the wiring finished, my last biggest project is the doors and then the rest is pretty much cosmetic. I am so looking forward to driving this truck again.

It lives! Sorta. I was able to get it to crank and run today, but ran into a couple problems. The first is that I still don't have a fuel level indication. It's going to take some more troubleshooting to figure that one out. My other problem is that the compression fitting in my fuel line splice didn't hold and I sprayed a decent amount of gas onto my garage floor and the underside of the truck. I didn't try to see if it would move with the gas going everywhere, but this is the first time I've been able to crank it since swapping everything over, so I'm pretty happy. I'm getting there, a little closer everyday.

Well, I have half my problem solved. There was a ground in the tail light harness that I put to the frame and now the truck will crank and run (not sure if that was it or not), but I still don't have a functioning fuel gauge. Its sitting on empty, doesn't move and the low gas level light doesn't come on. Not sure what the problem is yet.