ParadiseMJ

Don't know who has followed my overheat saga, more like an odyssey!! http://comancheclub.com/topic/38373-road-trip-a-little-hot/page-4 ...so here's the deal... I've been driving the Jeep over hill and over dale, pushing the ferk out of it for the last 2 weeks to shake it down for my upcoming Jackson Hole trip. Well, it's done great, running just under 210 under some adverse conditions. Towing a small but heavy trailer, wheeling up a steep slow n' go 15 mile dirt road, blasting around town, sitting in traffic, extended idling. No sweat. Absolutely NO hot temps. So today I decided to take it to work. 22 miles, 18 miles of it highway speed and FLAT. It was cool here this morning and the first 4 miles is all downhill. So, about 3 miles before I got there, the needle started climbing... Fast forward to the ride home...10 miles (on the flat) at 65 the needle started going up. By the time I got half way up the hill, I'm at the red. Pulled over, boiling over, towed home. My OWN advice has always been: Overheating at idle or slow n' go is an AIR FLOW problem (either a bad fan clutch or restricted air flow) Overheating at speed is a coolant flow problem (either a clogged radiator or a bad pump) I has discounted both of these since all the parts are relatively new (miles wise). I still don't think my water pump vanes are corroded, and the coolant has always been clean as a whistle. WHAT SHOULD I DO??

Yes, per your suggestion. I've already replaced the cat & muffler and added a flex pipe. I have to tune up one of my connections, not quite fitting, so it's kind of loud. My wife's employer went belly up so she's out of work, which has slowed most of the unnecessary expenditures (read Jeep) even so...I've yet to find a muffler shop that'll do it for less than $125. I'll likely open another topic on that.

The cooling system seems to be doing fine...on to the exhaust and a new downpipe.

I believe that's just exactly backwards...the nose line stays...the one that gets plugged is the forward line at the bottom.

I got the ones for my MJ off an XJ in the junkyard with all the factory brackets...bolted right up!! Even had the factory torx bolts/ $25

That'll work too. I have all stainless bolts on mine...but I also have the old brackets with the spot welds drilled out and put back on.

The fronts...yes. The rear XJ flares on a 2 door are the same as 4 door flares. So XJ specific. The OP would be better off fixing the brackets, and repainting the flares IMHO

The title of your post says it all. It's certainly sad when one of our trucks gets smashed up. Hope you or anyone else did not get hurt. T-boned at 50 MPH and the bed frame isn't bent beyond repair?? I find that amazing. I don't mean to be pessimistic but 50 MPH will do more damage than can reasonably be fixed. "depending on finances" .... You'll be money ahead looking for another truck IMHO. Sounds like an S-ton of work and quite a bit of money on a truck worth $3-5 grand...and with a salvage title at that. Got any pictures??

If you don't want to spend $300-400 on bushwhackers either go flareless and trim or replace the stock flares. If you didn't break the plastic stock flares you can either fix the hold downs with bolts & nuts or buy new hold downs, and repaint the flares. I regret the flare/fender "trimming" I did on my XJ. I should have kept it stock.

...and then at the bottom of the ad it says "Pictures are a custom installation of a 99 Mercedes E-300 210 Diesel".

I have a stock step bumper with a hitch receiver bolted to it with 3/4" bolts. I can easily tow my little utility trailer and/or my light weight canoe/camping trailer with it. The frame mounts look petty beefy but SHOULD I be towing anything else with just that set-up...or do I need to find a "real" receiver hitch? They are, so far, pretty hard to find and the ones I've seen bolt right into the same mounting holes that the bumper uses. I'm not so concerned with the "pulling" part as I am with the tongue weight support. I don't want to tweak or bend the bumper or bumper mounts.

...and I think that may be a winner..the truck did not have any antenna when I got it. Lots of things about the interior were...er...started, but not finished or just torn out and left. I think the PO lost interest.

Good. Also there was CB antenna wiring under the knee panel. Might have been for that. Not looking home made to me. Thanks.

At this point, I've taken it on a short drive, intentionally hitting it hard from 1800 ft. to 2400 ft elevation. Only about 8 miles round trip. It did fine BUT my top radiator hose is hard as a rock. It bubbled a bit into the coolant overflow (it's open system) but when I got home and let it cool off it sucked all the coolant that had been expelled out of the cap back in to the rad, as it should. I have a few days off, time for a road trip to she how it does. Just the hard rad hose has me concerned. I also have to add, my first compression test was done bone dry and cold. The newest comp test, the Jeep was warmed up.

I found this in my MJ 3 years ago when I was putting the interior back together. Anybody got an idea what it's for. I thought it may have something to do with factory mini-tweeters (which it doesn't have), but the wires for my XJ mini-tweeters (which it DOES have) look nothing like this/these. Whole thing One end Other end

If I could nab an 8.8 for $120...and it was in ANY kind of decent shape...I would have gotten it yesterday!! If you have to have 4.88 ratio it may give me a little hesitation but there are 3.73 D30's available for a song (around here anyway) The junkyard here charges a flat $180 for any axle...and all labor on me. As far as the D44/D60 combo I'd have to look into it a little deeper

Done with the head and all...although my first test drive I blew off the bottom hose, dumping all my new coolant. I didn't have the hose clamp all the way around...rookie mistake!! I'm driving it around letting it heat/cool/heat/cool with the system all buttoned up and coolant overflow ebbs and flows as it should. No explosions yet, no stray rags, bolts or nuts left in any pistons.

Almost. The head is done and back on, everything is put back together, exhaust, replaced almost all the vacuum lines and got the A/C fixed as well, cylinder compression increased slightly, from 119,120 average to between 125 and 129 across the board. I'm poking along at it as time and energy permits (I've worked 60+ hours this week and building an 80' fence at home...I'm fried). All it needs is plugs (actually only one plug which I broke) and coolant and I'm good to go...I think.

Thanks for the replies...finally found it in the FSM. Done. Overthinking it again. Last time I did valves was on my '69 280SE Benz.

Hey there, Valve bridges 19 FP...BUT... Any body got a step by step for tightening, torqueing the valve bridges? I know I'm not adjusting the valves. I need to know how it goes back together properly. Seriously, I need a step by step at this point...I'm having a serious brain cramp !!! Do I need to rotate the engine as I do it, how do I know if a valve is open or closed, tips etc???!!! THANK YOU

Have you ever been abducted by aliens? Visited by ghosts? Zombies? Do you believe in vampires? What if you break a mirror? Spill salt? Walk under a ladder? Step on a crack?

HOW OLD???

Lmao so first you make the truck bump, and now y'all make the house bump ...do your kids have to wear ear plugs at night? :rotf: :banana: Kids are gone, we have the place to ourselves.

We used to make our truck bump...but after 4 kids we gave it up for the house!!

I believe he's talking about the tranny drain plug (same as block drain) somewhere between 5/16 & 3/8, never measured it, metric or otherwise.