RLCollins

thanks for the correction Eagle, I guess i just have worked with to much PVC glue in my day. :popcorn:

I was at the bone yard this morning, and spotted a 96XJ with a newer looking AC System. Would you change from a R-12 to a 134A? How is the cooling with 134A? My 1989 MJ 4.0 has the old R-12 system, After changing the blower motor and looking through the mounting hole, I noticed that the evaporator coil is clogged with dirt and probably cannot be cleaned, so it needs to be replaced, the old lines look questionable. Dryer probably needs to be replaced. There is still pressure on the system, its just lower on R-12. The site glass flashes when you turn on the AC and let it run. It seems to go off on the low pressure control. What would you do? Is it a direct change over if I take all the componets off the 1996 XJ. If you choose to do this job, what would you replace with NEW parts, like maybe the dryer.... what do you think? Will the condenser fit my MJ, will the 134A evaporator coil fit where the R-12 was? Just thinking out loud? What has been your experience? :idea:

What does your air cleaner filter look like? If it has oil on it, Check to see if your CCV AKA PVC hard plastic tube is clogged. :brows:

WOW - Gwlongshot - I sure wish I would have talked about my tire purchase before I bought them. I would have rather had 265's instead of 235's, I did not know they made them I wonder how much taller, and wider are the 265's? I have the same rims on my truck as you do. Did you special order these tires? If you don't mine me asking, How much did you pay for them? What did you have on before? :chillin:

What happened? I think jeepco was right by saying it was the starter relay, sound like it to me too??? :hmm:

A great vacation spot for the entire family to go to for firearms training is FRONTSIGHT in Nevada. This is very much a family afair vacation spot, with many families attending, so check it out. I think a shotgun is great home defense tool, just make sure that "IF" you are going to pull it out, make sure you intend to use it, other wise the THUGS may take it away from you, and use it against you. You don't have to be a marksman to use it. I like my COLT 44 mag, just the sight of it scares the hell out of them. I only had to pull it out once on a couple of thugs, once I pulled the hammer back and they heard it click, they knew I meant business and they took off for the hills. :yes:

Thanks for the information azscott. I too also live in an area that is HOT and rots everything. The SOUTH FLORIDA sun along with the salt air, living within a mile of the ocean is rough on everything, especially in October when the wind blows. My manual crank-up widow regulators are also shot, the exterior paint is shot, my wallet is going to be shot. So I want to do this one time. Let me know which rubbers work out best. This is my CHRISTMAS PRESENT. :brows:

I just bought 4 - Cooper Discover H/T 235/75/R-15. cooper is a good tire :D

Wait - someone has jumped the gun. its the eve of Christmas. So have a good night. And let it snow, let it snow, let it snow. :chillin: From Robert in South Florida Who's working on their Jeep tomorrow? :hmm:

Where can I purchase, door and window weather stripping? What works best? OEM, or aftermarket, than WHO? What has been your experience? :???: What about the caulking? :help:

Sounds like a winner :yes: Merry Christmas Robert

Yes 10 millibars. I Figured out my brake problem, I install the arm on the height sensing proportioning valve 180 degrees out of sink, changed it to the proper position and my brakes work fine now. After changing the blown-up transmission, timing chain, water pump, 195 degree thermostat, oil pump, rear main seal, hermonic balancer, oil pan gasket, change the cooling system from a closed one to an open one, complete brake job less the steel brake lines, clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder and three months of labor, it is finally back on the road. I still have small items to take care of like the bad head light switch, AC fan motor is shot with bad bearing, speedometer does not work?, back-up light switch in the transfer case bad, drives side window regulator Bad, maybe the passanger too? Should I buy new ones or are pull yard ones ok? need to change all the window rubbers, fuse panel is eaten-up with brake fluid from the hydrallic clutch master cylinder - any suggestions? , innerfender doghouses, tires, some of the sensors need to be changed that control the ECU, any suggestion? and a paint job. After I finish the rest of this list, It will be looken fine:yes:

Thanks for all your responses, I like thejum57 idea of bringing the football inside. Since I changed my cooling system from a closed system to and open one. I removed the pressure bottle and the self it was straped to, that was attached to the firewall. So I have room right there to install it, just above the AC fan motor, or the fender well. :chillin:

Thanks Pete PS With it being the size of a grapefruit, that's small, does it really make a difference? I figured the intake manifold has more volume than that grapefruit. :hmm:

Thanks for the information Pete Yes I realize that it is under negative pressure, meaning in a vacuum I don't have problem with it leaking, it has 15 pounds of suction, on both the line side and the load side. There is a check valve on the line side, if I am understanding it right? This allows for a period of time with suction AFTER the motor is shut down. Or why even have the football in the first place. Just tie the lines together and forget the football, if it really does not do anything after the engine is turned off. It seems that it should be under a vacuum for a certain period of time, if it is an accumlator of vacuum with this check valve. So if the statement above is true about the internal checkvalve, than it only make sense. :hmm: I have been wrong before. :chillin:

Was the motor cast iron?? maybe you got lucky. I won't know anything about that, It does not FREEZE much in South Florida. But we do use antifreeze for the HEAT. It should be snowing about now where you at, this is from the storm that left Florida soaking. Well; its time to work on my truck, the sun is shinning and it's about 70 degrees. Have a great day :yes:

The football I am referring to operates the AC, Heat, Axle shift motor on the 4 wheel drive, and cruise control. Did I miss anything? How do you properly check the football (Air reserve)behind the right bumper. From what I have gathered, it suppose to have a checkvalve in it? How long should it stay charged with air? :hmm:

Now that it has stopped raining here in South Florida. We needed the rain so I not complaining. Now I can go back to working on my truck. I feel SORRY for all of you in the northeast, you probably are getting hammered about now with snow. So much for global warming. :rotfl2: I want to thank Fiatslug87 for the Booster testing information - well; both the check valve and the booster pass the test. I lost about 10HG's in fifteen seconds. With the information you gave me it stated that a 33HG's loose was the cutoff line for being faulty. So thanks. :D I believe I have tracked my brake problem down to two areas, either the new master cylinder is bad, or the height sensing proportioning valve arm which I installed, is 180 degrees out of proper position, which is allowing the brake fliud to flow freely in the loop, without any resistance. :doh: Time to go back to go back to work, the sun is shinning and the temperture is probably about 70 degrees. I think that is good working weather, what do you think? :hmm:

Did you go for a dunk in the Jordan River? It a real special place. what about the Dead Sea? The Holyland is a very historcal place for ALL people to see. great pictures :chillin:

Sorry to here about your troubles, it sounds ccccccccoooooooollllllllldddddd? Here in SOUTH FLORIDA I have had to break out my winter gear - My winter shorts and a tee shirt, darn they look the same as my summer clothes. Can you believe this? the temperture has been 75 degrees and raining today. Boy - I sure glade that cold weather is staying up north where it belongs. :chillin: maybe it will warm up soon :rotfl2:

Thanks for the informatin. I will go back and bleed them one more time, and move the height sensing proportioning valve as well. I will also look at the booster more closely too see what the HEL is going on. i have done many brakes in my time, but never turn out like this :headpop:

If you remove the idler pulley, and go for a shorter belt. Won't this shorter belt com in contact with the thermostat housing? :idea: My mistake you are removing the fan, and going along the bottom

Cracker - I am sure there is no air in the lines. I have bleed them twice, thinking the same as you. :headpop: HellCreek - There is very little paddle after bleeding them twice. I have replace both proportioing valves and the master cyclinder, along with rebuilt calipers ,and rear wheel cyclinders, along with adjusting them till they had some "Dragging when turning to rear wheels. These brakes should have a firm brake paddle, and it does not - its like mush. This is why I am asking about the vacuum booster. How do you check it out? I tried the paddle test with the engine off, and than started the truck. The peddle did not sink any further to the floor. :headpop: How can I check out this booster? Which booster do I have in my 1989 MJ 4.0, I-6 4X4 How can you tell the difference between the single and double diaphram model? If it is bad which one will fit in my truck. :help:

Thanks Eagle and wildman for the informaion - I shall try it in the morning. :chillin: Sorry Eagle the reason I said pete, was the picture at the top of this thread with the MJ valve cut in half, sure would like to see an XJ cut in half. The XJ has a spring in the end of it. It would be nice to see the difference between to two :chillin:

It Seem like there is no difference in the brake paddle with the engine running, or not running?