RLCollins

CW - going back to the ant and the grasshopper story - what happened to the ACLU - they are always in the middle of everything, even if it does not make any sense.

On that 3 inch lift for under four hundred dollars. not a bad price. One question that I would have, is about adding to the rear Leaf springs, If I understand what they are saying is - just by adding additional leaves to your springs means you are going to add 3 inches of addtional higth? or are there shackles also? Are the springs still under the axle? what will the ride be like? ROUGH? smooth or what? What's your experience been in doing this? :hmm:

Which year and model AX-15 uses and external clutch slave cylinder? :hmm:

I saw an 1987 MJ at the Bone Yard this morning. This is a short bed with tailgate and NO rust inside or outside the bed. The Bed in in excellent shape inside. There are some dents on the passenger side lower half in front of the wheel well, and one minor one on the drivers side high on the rear. It appears to have had a topper on it at one time, and this is why it is in such Excellent shape. The tail gate is straight and in Excellent shape also. The two front doors, and the two front fenders along with the hood have NO RUST, and are in Excellent shape. The entire truck was painted Red, and the paint job is still in excellent condition. If there is any interest call me at 561-588-3376 after 9:30 PM EST or PaPaZion@aol.com or the U-Pull & Pay yard at 561-793-3808. This place is located just 5 minutes off the Flordia Turpike in West Palm Beach, Florida. :yes:

Thanks for the information. Where is the fuel tank sender located? what is a b-pillar? What's so special about the fuel filler neck. People call me a RED-NECK, and I know what they are refuring to, a patriotic AMERICA CITIZEN who believes in the Constitution and what the intent of the Founding Fathers had in mind, when they created the Constitution, and will defend AMERICAN till my DEATH. :bowdown: But what about a Fuel filler neck? Educate me please :dunce:

After months of working on my MY MJ (MOOSE), I finally had enough faith on NEW YEARS DAY, to take MOOSE for a few hour distance drive for the shake down run. ON this drive It started raining, so I turn on the windshield wipers on high and they operate to slow for me. Some trucks, cars and other vehicle were just designed to be slower than what I want them to be. So; my question is, what do I do? What have you done to SPEED UP the process up? PS MOOSE ran great, and drove great, with NO PROBLEMS. This is the first time MOOSE has been on a distance road tip in over two years :D he just has a little to much vibration for me at different speeds, even in the sweet spot of 65 MPH, that I will have to look into, maybe new shocks will take care of it, WHAT do you think? The tires are brand new. The drive shaft is the same, but I did change the BA10-5 to ANOTHER PEWGOAT BA10-5, what a mistake :nuts: I did not know any better when I bought it at the bone yard. CC has straighten me out on the history of the PEWGOAT, an AX-15 will be the next transmission I install if I can find one, with an external slave cylinder :hmm: Vibration - where does it come from? what would you look at? The second account is WIPER SPEED - you think maybe a different wiper motor model from the bone yard would help my speed? what did you do? :headpop:

jakeman17 I had a harmonic balancer that looks similars to yours that I removed about six months ago. Mine was separating also, and the rubber clutch was hanging out. It looks like this problem may be another standard one with Jeeps, so it needs to be added to the list of problem areas :hmm: What do you think?

If you do not want to drill a hole, than purchase a OEM 1-83501426AC AKA SF 8952001797, which is the Part number stapped on the flange. This is a 195 degree thermostat with a small hole which appears to be a check valve, because there is a small silver ball inside. This hole is to be installed at 12 o clock position. I only paid $10.92 for it at Chrysler. :yes:

After you sand the rust off, Lubricate it with DE-OX before tightening it down. Read my thread "New Years" "TIP" and have a better day. :chillin:

YEP, I have to agree with sterling stinger, I want to know my MJ inside and out, so forget the mechanic and the dictionary. Spend your money on a factory service manual for your year vehicle :yes:

My NEWS YEARS resolution is to admit, and confess to eveyone that I have a problem, I am a MJ-oholic. To help my MJ recover, I have to map out a twelve step program for my MJ's rebuild. I need to make a commitment and stay the course, and complete the program in a reasonable of amount of time. This way I can come out and play. :chillin: Can anyone relate?

Don't know, I'am only the Electrician of twenty five years, and not the engineer. Try it out, and let me know what you think. There are other similar products on the market, but they dry out over time and become an insulator, instead of an inhibitor. DE-OX does not dryout, its texture is similar to petroleum jelly . Some things in life do not make sense, but they work well.Try the web-site below. or http://www.Ilsco.com and look-up DE-OX :brows: https://www.ilsco.com/ProductsDetail.as ... AduPeME%3d

Thanks; both of you for narrowing my focus on what I need. I am building a spare parts inventory while the quantity of JEEPS from the CASH for CLUNKER vehicles are still in the bone yard. It seems that these junkers are moving very fast, The junk yard has to crush them in a certain amount of time, and it seems that time is running out. So I am trying to build a surplus of parts for repairs. What would your extra parts inventory look like? Another words; what are the most problem prone ones that you would want on hand? :idea:

Have you ever had problems with oxidation on terminal blocks, splices or connection, that may not have total continuity? Maybe to the point of an electrical failure from the oxidation? Which acts like a loose connection? What about intermitted flow of electricity when you knew that you did not have loose connnection anywhere, and the grounds are ground down to bare metal and tight. Try a product called DE-OX by Ilsco, it is an oxide inhibator and it works wonders on ALL of you electrical connection. Even if the oxidation is not visible. This product will solve most of your electrical trouble :brows: I have used this product for over ten years, and it works great, even on light bulb screw shells, just apply a little on the threads before you install that new lamp. Also on small screws, bolt and nuts that you may want to take appart many years down the road. DE-OX is the other side of ANTI-SEIZE. DE-OX is approved for ALL ALUMINUM and/or COPPER TERMINATIONS. My Moose (MJ) loves this stuff on ALL of his electrical connection, including head lights, push-in bulbs, door switches, splices, terminal blocks which were not working properly before the DE-OX treatment, on my fuses, and fuse block. Screws that I want to take apart in the future needs DE-OX. I Use it around my home, and anything outdoors that is in mositure. You can purchase DE-OX in 5 oz squeeze bottle from your electrical supply house. This is a non-conductive product. :D

Thanks Cracker, Pete and deziped for the informaton. I have to move my fog lights to the bottom side of the bumper, along with finding amber lenses. Happy New YEAR, sure glade 09 is dead :ack:

So you are talking about jeeps with 4.0L engines manufactured between 1987-1990, or 4 cylinders btween 1986 - 1990 . Does this look about right? :hmm:

What year, and model vehicles, can we pull the ECU's out of, that will work properly in an RENIX system? :help:

mnkyboy - The camera works great at the home, but what about everywhere else? dunl - Great Idea - where would be a great place to locate this KILL switch? I know you though about it before you installed yours, where were you thinking at that time? PS I am not asking you where you installed yours - but just for your ideas. jpnjim - Another gret idea - What can you tell me about this "FUEL PUMP wire harness"? Where would be a great place to install the switch, again I'am not asking where you installed yours, but just the ideas you had at that time, when you were thinking switch location through mnkyboy - Could you please tell me more about these switches. jeepcomj - I like your door switch and horn idea. How did you wire it in?, and what was going through your mind when you were deciding where to locate this switches. Again I am not asking where you installed yours, but just the location you had in mind. wallisek - Great idea - what can you tell me about silent alarms? What is there useful range, Which one did you use? I like the shotgun idea, as long as the alarm will wake you up, and you can move faster than the THUGS. CW - you always come up with great ideas, and good minds think alike. I just installed an ahooga horn for effects. The battery kill switch idea is great, but I live in South Florida and these smart THUGS that want you MJ will watch you, to see where you are killing the power. I don't want to create a "HOW to DO IT" scene for them. I rather do something that looks normal from the outside world to see. Thanks for ALL your great ideas. :hmm:

what measures do you use to keep your MJ from leaving home without your permission? :fs1: If criminals want your MJ, they are going to take it, so - what do you use to slow them down? :hmm:

thanks for the encouragement. That fog is hell to see through :brows:

What size H-3 lamps should I install in my Bosch plastic retangle bumper mounted lights. I may be traveling north to GA soon for work. There are places I remember driving in Georgia a few years ago that the FOG was thick when it rolled in. So what wattage H-3 lamps will work the best in heavy fog, without making it harder to see, and that won't melt the plastic housing? I personally have never driven with fog lights, so I don't know much about them. I just see a lot of people using them. Whats your experience been?:help:

Tell that to my neighbor, He is one of the ones that paid $17,000 for a STRIPPED Chevy truck with manual everything, that I could have bought the month before "CHASH FOR CLUNKERS" for $11,000 dollars without any stimulus money. He also recieved a 1099 that the dealer NEVER told him about, for $4,500 dollars, along with FIVE YEARS of payments, when in fact his old Chevy truck was paid for. The only reason I know this, he was venting real loud one evening telling me the story about how he got SCREWED with what he received in the mail which was a 1099 for $4,500, and how bitter he was about it. :(

More numbers for you. Ignore all the fuel saving, etc. and just look at how the car BUYER got taken to the cleaners If you traded in a clunker worth $3,500, you get $4,500 off for an apparent "SAVING" of $1,00. that is, you could have gotten $3,500 if you had just traded the car in. So you just really are $1,000 ahead at this point. However, you have to pay TAXES on the $4,500 come April 15, something that NO auto dealer will tell you. If you are in the 30% tax bracket, you will pay $1,350 on the $4,500. So, rather than save $1,000, you actually pay an extra $350 to the feds. In additiion, you traded in a car that was most likely paid for. Now you have 4 to 5 years of payments, on a car that you did not need, that was costing you less to run than the payments that you will now be making. But wait, it gets better; you also get ripped off by the dealer. For example, every dealer was selling the Ford Focus with all the Goodies including, AC, Automatic transmission, power windows, etc for $12,500 the month before the "Cash for Clunkers" program started. When the cash for clunkers came along, they stopped discounting the price and instead sold them at list price at $15,500. So you paid $3,000 more than you would have the month before (Honda, Toyota and KIA played the same list price game as Ford and Chevy) so lets do the final tally here You traded in a car worth $3,500 You got a discount of $4,500 Net do far $1,000 But you have to pay $1,350 in taxes on the $4,500 Net loss fo far $-350 And you paid $3,000 more than the car was selling for the month before. Net loss -$3,500 So who actually made out on the deal? The Feds collect taxes on the car along with taxes on the $4,500 they GAVE you. The car dealers made an extra $3,000 or more on every car they sold along with the kickbacks from the manufactures got to dump lots of cars they could not give away the month before. and the poor consumer get saddled with even more debt that they cannot afford. :fs1: How many of these people are going to loose their jobs before the first year of payments - How many REPOS will there be? I personally know someone this happened to with a full size Chevy truck I'll keep my MJ :D

GREAT site - GREAT people with a common interest. This sight Keeps my mind off life troubles I want to thank the staff for all their hard work, with steering us right when we are wrong. I have enjoyed this sight, and shared it with others for whom I know. Signed Comanche JUNKIE AKA Robert from Lake Worth, Fl :D

Thanks for the information Hellcreek and Knever3, I will do it, the Evaporator coil in my truck looks like some heat shink black plastic that had hair, that's how clogged it looks. Have you every seen a home AC evaporator coil with the return air located at floor level which has been run without a filter for a long time. YUK It will make you mad :fs1: It Looks like a DIRT test, to see if the coil can grow anything Thanks for the tip about the compressor length and the "O" rings replace, and Yes I kind of figured it was going to be a PITA. But If I do it right the first time, with a new heater core, and a new evaporator coil, than it will be a very long time before I will have to do it again. PS what about the expansion valve, it seems that has to do with that block of aluminum on the firewall where the high side and suction line pass one another. Is the electrical hook-up the same wire for wire? You guys give good tips :D Thanks