Grant

I too have a problem with my lights. I just bought the euromtec replacements. they are nice. The hole where my door jamb switches screw in are both stripped, way to big. What do we do? pop rivit in a peice of sheetmetal and redrill the hole? Thanks Grant

Hi, I just bought mine on ebay and did not see the comanche club discount. Oh well. I still like them. I just need to know the wiring from the mollex plug to the three seperate tabs on the back of the new lights??

I tested all the fusible links, there are 5 of them by the battery. The alltested 12+v on either side of the link. I have no ballast resistor for the fuel pump. doesent look like there ever was one. no cut wires, no old mounting location on the drivers frnder or the firewall. I tested the CPS with the ohm meter and it reads 22. I'm not sure if thats right ot not. they only info I could find was for a 3 wire 4.o cps. I only have 2 A & B. anybody know what the CPS is supose to ohm out to? Never the less, I still don't have any fuel pump initialization. The coil and the control unit are both New. The omnes I waranteed out were only a few months old but I traded them in anyway to be absolutely sure. Is there sonething with the actual ignition switch on the colum that I might be missing in my testing?

I undid, cleaned with my dremmel, and reconnected every ground. I tested both sides of the green and red fisable links with a multimeter. They all checked out ok. I replaced the relay too. Still no fuel pump at ignition on. I ran the pump with a long feed from the battery. That proved that it is good and it's ground is good. I added one to the bottom of the cab just in front of the gas tank. I'm stumped. might be the cps. I did replace it but this one doesnt seem to test out with an ohm meter now.

I scored a 110k 89 2.5 and swapped that out. did now clutch kit and had the flywheel ground(flat) it works fine. Now I'm siffering from no power tot he fuel pump. I've even spliced in a ground just behind where the wires come down through the cab. all sealled and everything. The tail light ground is also all clean and sealed. I sprayed them with rubberized undecoating. I need the testing sequence for all the fuel pump wiring. any got it? I have no voltage at the pump with the key on. No voltage at the relay, the orange/black wire either. where do I go from there?

I too am in the middle of a clutch replacement. My flywheel was perfectly flat all the way across, except for the 1/8 scores from the old clutch. I had it resurfaced. They grounds it, not a lathe. My clutch problem seemed to be the exact oposite. without any pedel pressure it acted like the clutch pedel was depressed. when actually depressed you could hear a ticking sound like the pp fingers or the disc springs touching something. I have the external slave and I did an all steel line to it. both the clutch master and slave were new last year. 15k miles max. the only difiernce is the flywheel on this motor an 89 vs the flywheel from the origional 86 motor. they were exactly the same so I did not swap them. anybody had this problem? I'm installing the complete clutch kit this evening.

there is a difference between the v belt setup and the serpentine. The vbelt waterpump fixed my cooling. it all good now. my biggest probles is that the clutch is like somebody is stepping on the peddle constantly. if I push it in, it goes so far that I get the clicking sounds. the clutch/pp/and bearing are all new. my slave is external on the bell housing. it eas not touched inthe engine swap. the new clutch disk was only an 1/8th thicker than the one I took out. what could cause this? no mater what I do the clutch will not engage.

I think I know what it is... my new block is from an 89. It had a serpentine belt. my 86 has conventional belts. I'll bet the waterpump is wrong for my belt setup. I think that serp w/p run backwards from the regular belts.

When I put the motor together I had the head done and all new gaskets, it pressure tested good. The rad is new as is the cap a 14lb lever release. All hoses are new as well. They only issues I can figure is maybe the waterpump or, the heater fuse was melted but not blown so I have it out at the moment. I was suprised to see the w/p is only 25 bucks and no core. I'm debating swapping the waterpump. It is the last old peice of the entire cooling system except the block and head!

Well I've never been sold on the accuracy of my guages as my tack reads 2k at idle lol I'm looking at the right sending unit then. Oh, a new 13lb lever type rad cap as well. I'm going to borrow an infrared thermometer tomorrow to see what I get for a reading at the thermostat housing and the sender. I'm just hopeing int not the waterpump.

I'm having a bit of a time with my 2.5L. I just replaced the motor since we lost the origional one to a blown head gasket. anyway, New hoses. new radiator, new fan belts. new fan clutch. still overheats. It's only 85 deg here. I'm also confused as to where the sending unit is for my guage. is it the little brass button sender with the brown wire on the back left end of the head?

I have scored a 89 2.5 w/ 100K on it. running, 400.00 delivered. it's on the rtuck now. I'm happy!

I might be rebuilding my 2.5L vin H. I had the head planed and pressure tested after an overheat. New gaskets etc. put it all back together and it smokes and runs rough. What should I test for the bottom end before I start looking for a used motor/jeep/ or rebuild?

Wasn't bad lifters. It was bad eye sight and feel 2 of the pushrods 1 on cyl 1 and 1 on cyl 4 weren't sitting in the lifters! It's much better but not real smooth like before the overheated. now it runs on all 4 cylinders BUT it smokes something fierce. Any ideas. I might be looking for a 2.5L short block vin "H" if somebody has one.

I did the visual vacume leak inspection. all hoses were back where I took them from. I thought about the propane detection system aka unlit burn-a-matic :) as far as all the sensors go, I'm sure they are all connected. just hopeing that I didnt cross any connection. I don't see how I could with the harness and the plug types the way they are though.

especially when you don't have any left over bolts, nuts, washers, or parts and it all goes bak together nicely!!

I had my head done after an overheat/head gasket failure. It actually ran prety well with the blown gasket, spit water out of the manifild side center though. The coolant was milk shake looking. the oil was untouched. The head was out .010 so it was planed, the presure test was good after. I took the opportunity to replace all the manifold bolts with new ss 1.25's and all new washers. The special belliview for the intake and the machined washers for the exhaust. it went together real well. no issues with the assembly. I did not disassemble the intake manifilod at all. Left it and the exhaust as one unit and put it back as so. Is it possible that I have wires from the harnes in the wrong spots. I don't think so by the different size connectors etc but who knows. Also the brass fuel fitting on the right side of the tbi broke so I had to extract the threads and replace. Whats inside that opening that might get damaged by an easyout? I replaced the plugs as well. that made it start better but it still have a big miss or two !

Ok, the head on my 2.5 pressure tested fine. It was out .010. Now that it's all back together, new felpro gasket set etc. It is running worse than before I took it apart. Is it possible that a sensor/sender could mKe it feel like it's running on 3 cyl? It doesn't look like you could plug the wrong plug on the wiring harness as the are all different?

Would they be the same these go on the B pillar? I have no idea whet they are worth. I would think shipping would be the expensive part? I'm prety flexible.

anybody have a pair of the Rear Speaker brackets? this is the factory brackets from the parts list http://www.massachusettsflagger.com/ima ... racket.bmp I have infinity Reference 9612cf 6x9's in the doors. 3012cf in the knee pannel, and want to put my 5712cf's in the B pillar. My MJ didn't come with the brackets! Must be the stripped down "Custom" version lol email me at glmacconnell at gmail . com if somebody has them. if not I'll have to fab something

I too have the same 3000 rpm at idle issue. I'm prety sure the guage cluster is the origional in the truck as the milage coinsides with all documentation. if it's a ground issue, how would your ground it?

I had my head pressure tested and plained today as the head gasket blew last week. Now I can fix the pesky exhaust manifold leak. I was missing bolt # 1 and could not get one in while on the jeep. I was also missing # 3 and 6. I opted to remove the studs and use 1 1/4 Stainless g8 bolts while on my bench. I have the manifold washer thing all figured out too! There are 2 different types of washers used on the manifolds. One for the bolts that only touch the exhaust manifold, and one for the combination bolts for the intake/exhaust. Hopefullt this will clear up a lot of leaks, cracks etc on the 2.5L we all love! see this picture :) http://www.massachusettsflagger.com/images/washers.JPG

And the tank it's going into: SENDING UNIT, Fuel *** 5200 3671 1 w/16 Gal. Tank - Carbureted Eng. - 7 Ft. Box - 1988 5200 3644 1 w/18 Gal. Tank - Carbureted Eng. - 7 Ft. Box 5200 3652 1 w/23.5 Gal. Tank - Carbureted Eng. - 7 Ft. Box 5200 3644 1 w/23.5 Gal. Tank - Diesel Eng. - 7 Ft. Box what about tbi? do they lump it into carburated?

My fuel guage seems to be way off. I have an 86 LB. did the tank measurement and capacity calculator which tells me I have a 27 gallon tank take out for the ridges and indentations 23.5. When the feed me light comes on, we can never put in more than 12-14 gallons. Factory specs call for either an 16,18 or 23.5 gal tank. sending units are 5200 3671 for 16 gal, 5200 3644 for 18gal, and 5200 3652 for the 23.5 gal ALL W/7' boxes. also, my tach is off by what appears to be half. Idles at 18-2000, runs down the highway pegged in 5th gear doing 65. By my 51 year trained ear I know it not even close. Any Ideas. The amp guage and oil pressure seem to be correct, but op started doing a weird wiggle thing once in a while. Temp never moves off the blue cold range even thought the heater works awesome.

I saw that. The only issus I have is that I don't need whinch provisions etc. My MJ is a DD and won't see anything but maybe a dirt road. I'm looking for something clean and neat, like this new rear they have come up with. smothe, clean, not provisions for whinches, bars etc.