Grant

I lile it too. I agree with the 100.00 being a better value. My biggest complaint is that I like matching bumpers, front and rear. I guess I just like symetry or balance. Was there any talk of Hanson doing a matching front?

this is what I have dug up on the sensors etc for my 2.5. I am going to change all of them soon as I'll bet most of them are 25 years old Sensors Oxygen Sensor 5300-2106 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part#SG20 Microprocessor 5300-4763 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # EM4763 Throttle Position Sensor 3300-0169 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # TH31 Speed Sensor aka CPS t073-9789 standard PC87T Colant Temp Sensor 3300-2383 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # TX28 the factory parts pages show these 2 numbers for th 2.5l I can not find replacements for either Intake Air Sensor 3300-2382 "suposedly Standard ax9" Intake Air temp sensor 5300-3938 ?????

I had a similar problem. It was the tube between the air filter and the tb. I got 8" of 3" dia aluminum tube $3, 2 of the rubber collar/clamps used for cold air intake $14, and a 6" funnel $.99, plus the k&n air filter $38. I cut the angle on the aluminum tube at the tb end just so it looked right. clamped the tube in at both ends. then out front behind the grille next to the left headlight, there is the air filter box end that has a downturned opening Pic 2, I took this off completely. cut the funnel so that 1 1/2" would silde into the opening but not reach the cold start flapper valve, pushed a 2 1/4 muffler adapter into it to force the funnel out to the outer diameter, viola, ram air for my comanche. It makes a big difference in starting and highway speeds. going to see what it did for fuel economy now. the oem rubber tube had the inner layers all shredding and flapping around. I think there were blocking air, not passing it! http://www.massachusettsflagger.com/images/a001.jpg http://www.massachusettsflagger.com/images/a002.jpg http://www.massachusettsflagger.com/images/a003.jpg

I have successfully rebuilt my tire winch. it's not too bad to do. 1. drill out the rivits. 2. take the peices out one at a time. they will be gooey with old dried grease. that is part of what binds them. They will be all stuck together. Make sure the c shaped springs on the very bottom don't take off on you. Also look for the tab with the slot in it. remember which side it goes to. it goes back and forth like a sewing machine feeder foot. 3. ckean all parts, I used MEK to disolve all the old dried grease. 4. re grease everything generouslly, used NAPA sylglide as it is weather impervious. 5. cut out old cable, replace with new 1/4' cable. don't forget to really crimp the cable ferrell. I used 36". you'll end up cutting of a little bit after all assembled. 6. reassemble in reverse order. I used 1 1/2 stove bolts and nuts to clam it all back together. now I can spin it by hand. silky smooth. the whole process took about an hour! cost me less than $5.00 a whole lot better than modding a different one :)

Hello, My 86 rear bumper is junk. ruster through on the reciever plate and the bumperett ends mounting tabs. I'm looking for a matched set of front and rear bumpers that have a little bit of attitude, don't need loops, recievers etc. Just something plain and simple. More to meet dot in the state than anything. The "But" caviot is it has to pass the "Wife" astetic value as it is her DD!

Not me, I pair $250.00! I am looking for a bumper myself but an not interested in anything major. My MJ will spend most of it's life round town and highway. don't need towing cap either, have a ram for that.

The rough country kit #625 h/n is what I used. It was everything in one box. Needed nothing else. front springs, rear leafs, all the u-bolts and center pins. I bought the steering stab at the same time. I paid about 250 including the shocks although I did not go for the nitrogen shock upgrade. the whole thing took me maybe 6 hours. including drilling out a rear shock mount I snapped. as far as height goes. between the kit and the tires I gained just about 5" total height. I went with the 31" tires which are about 2" taller than the 225's that I had. here's one site I found who has a decient price. Look around pricing on the the kit is all over the place. I've seen it today 255-425! "research save you big money"http://4wdtruck.com/jeepparts/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=19582

all done. 3" RC kit is good. 31" Wrangler RTS's on Black Rock 975's 15x8 4'bs all I need to do now is set the toe. it's out an inch. Can't get it to break free. soaked the bejesus out of it and a 18' pipe wrench wouldn't break it free. it's scrubbing the drivers side tire pretty good. might be time for the red wrench! still looking for opening vent windows and a rear slider too. then it paint and done, just drive and enjoy!

I just did the Rough Country 3" with nitro shocks. Got it from Red Rock for about 300.00 Thee kit was perfect. It took less time than anticipated, 3 hours all together. I'm impresses with the instructions as well. they were right on the money although I'd skip the undoing of the rear shackles, I just cut them off with a 4" wheel and spun the shock and shock mount out of the way. so much faster. I was sceptical about the rear leafs. It didn't look like it was going to add very much but it did add 2.5". Did the steering stab as well. now just waiting on the BlackRock 975's 8x15 to arrive monday so I can put on the 31" Wrangler RTS's I scored for 250.00 that were about a month old! I can't wait. now we'll see if the little 4 cyl can move this setup! lol

anybody know where the ecu hides on an 86 2.6L? I agree, it doesnt seem like a fuel problem. I did have a big vacuum leak, the brake booster check valve but that only cured the high idle, not the weird idle!

OK, voltage 14.75 lights on at engine block, firewall, fender, ground under the cab by fuel pump. ( the one I made ) lights off No Change. ?

i have cleande the block to cab ground. Made a ground from the fender to the battery. so with 4 grounds all good and clean it still does the weird idle except when the running lights or headlights are on?????

I'm going to ground the cab to frame, pu body to frame, block to frame, and frame to battery. All new ones. We'll see what that does.

I'm stumped My 86 2.5l had a no start contition. It was the feul pump not getting power, more specifically, bad ground. I cleaned up the one behind the drivers tail light and used aircraft connection sealer enhancer. Also added a ground just aft of the gas tank where the harness goes all the way back. also used the connection jelly then undercoated over it all. Now the truck will start and run as long as you foot is on the gas. when you take it off it goen into a 800rpm/0rom/800rpm cycle and eventually stalls. if you turn on the running lights or the headlights, it idles just fine? any Ideas?

I think I'm going to go with the Black Rock Blade series 975 15x8 4 3/4 with t he 31" Genneral Grabber AT2 tires. I think it will look cool. The wheels are about $60.00 Tires locally about $125.00 Need to buy 2 anyway so it looks like the time.

I believe this is the origional dash in the vehicle too? What would have caused this?

Trying to figure out why tach reads double? My 86 2.5l tack is way wrong. What should I be looking for to set it correctly?

cool, my last question then is the backspacing. stock call for 5.5" if I go 4.5 " then the stick out of the wheel wells further right? 3.5 would be even more? maybe even go to a bigger wheel like 5x4.5 17x8 4.50 ? what would that do? a little less tire but the same overall size?

so that would be 265/75r15 in metric?

i just looked at my spare. Stamped 15x7.0. thats cool. what would be a good all purpose 31" tire so i can start my searching? still go 10" or smaller?

I'm stumped on tires, wheels etc. I'm putting 3" f/r lift on my 86 custom 4x4 I'm told 32" 10" wide tires The rim width and backspacing confuses me. I have stock steel wheels . don't know the size. Woundering if I can use them? I'd like to make the tires look wider, hang out the fenders a bit so it looks right. Then, will my 140 ci 4 cyl have enough power for daily driving? Thanks Grant

Yes, The system never stays together or tight and it has only seen asphault! It is a cheap replacement system. I have spent more time on this exhaust in the year and a half we have had the MJ than I have on my Magnaflow exhaust I have on my ram that has 60k on the system now. It is possible my exhaust manifild has cracked as well. I have not been able to diagnois this as of yet due to the weather and work schedule the past week or so. I am also hopeing to gain any performance I can as it is about to get a 3" lift and 31" tires and I would like to to be able to move a bit faster than a seamroller! lol Are there any reasonable options?

I'm going to change my exhaust. Is there a decient performance exhaust, maybe with a header for this l4 2.5l 150ci monster motor in my 86 ? grin?

Tell me more about the rear shackles. What year chevy? I don't have an orileys in Mass. autozone or advanced ??

I too am looking to put a 3" lift in my 86 mj longbed. I'm looking at the rough countey 625 kit. I can get it for 250ish. Questions I have are will I need to do anything to the steering? I'm trying to lift it just enough without changing the geometry. What are the best wheels as far as size and offset/backspacing. I want to run 31" or 32" tires. This kit comes with springs all around. not the pucks for the front. Thanks