Torq_Shep

Also, and this is a long shot, but if I did this conversion I may pigtail the pins listed in 2000-2001 models for COP in case I want to try converting to COP for ignition timing. It looks like you can do it without needing the 00-01 CAM pos sensor if you just leave the dizzy in place (which also runs the oil pump).

I have not considered that but if I convert to OBD2 there is no reason I can't have Chris or Ryan tune it still. I just downloaded a 2005 TJ 4.0L tune file to look at and it is fairly sparse. Still would like to see a 1996 tune file as I bet it is even more sparse (no/limited spark tables). However, it has enough tunability to get the fueling and engine fan stuff dialed in. The other nice thing about OBD2 with HPT would be for data logging.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/884212465762405/ Its kinda cool? But I am not sure it is THAT cool...

I have seen that guys harness and although it is slick I don't really consider it a full conversion. More of a novelty that would allow me to pre-tune an ecu before doing the wiring conversion. Plus its kinda pricy (a little less than 1/2 of the terminator)

I 100% want to fully integrate it. It has to be easier than getting modern OBD2 engines to run in a test cell. Additionally, the 1996 ECU is tunable with HPTuners now which is a HUGE plus. The terminator X system is more appealing to me than getting another canned tune ECU. The jeep has a locked "tuned" ecu and it still doesn't feel quite right. I am very familiar with HPT and tuning engines for various functions so being able to tune the engine for reliability and drivability I think will not be an issue. It would however be nice to have timing control...

To my knowledge AX-15 was always 23-spline so 1994 XJ NP231 should be identical to any year AX-15 equipped NP231 MJ/XJ.

Probably. Early Aw4s had 21 splines. I don't remember the cross over year but I think it was 1990?

I am planning to do this to my jeep. Currently I have a 1996 OBD2 engine and dash harness, 4.0L MT ECU, does anyone have the wiring diagrams for the 1991 and the 1996 engines? Additionally, does anyone know what sensors need to be changed?

Gotta update your signature then!

Tweeters are responsible for the highs and sometimes high-mids on a stereo system. Many modern aftermarket speakers (cheaper models typically) have the tweeters built-in in the center of the speaker. Older vehicles either didnt have tweeters or they had them in one spot on "premium" sound. In the case of our jeeps, the lower kick panels have grilles for these speakers but they are hardly ever present unless you had an "accusound by Jensen" package. Even if they were present they sucked...

Dead Jeep has used ones for $25 so I just bought those instead =P

Dead jeep has used ones for $25 so I just bought those =P

So I bought all of my components from crutchfield. Morel Maximo 5 Component fronts and Morel Maximo 5 coax rear, TJ adapter plates, 16 ga copper speaker wire, Soundstream Reserve Mini 75w x4, Duetsch knock off disconnects for the speakers, etc etc. Y'all bought all the Team Cherokee tweeters though so now I need to rig up mounts for the tweeters...

DAMNIT Y'ALL BOUGHT THEM ALL. I just bought my components from crutchfield for the audio and went to buy these for the brackets and TC no longer has them. Should have known better. In any case I am now on the hunt for a set again =P

I have wrapped maybe 10 harnesses and I feel like every time I do one I wrap it slightly differently. I usually resort to 3m Self Adhesive at junctions, appropriate split loom, then self adhesive over the split loom. Sometimes I wrap long sections of the harness, put it in split loom, then wrap again. Sometimes I use the expensive cloth tape stuff. Does anyone have a tried and true "best" way to wrap a harness?

Its not super easy but it isnt that hard either. It just has one bolt (I think 7mm) holding the plug together but there isnt a lot of room to get down there.

I guarantee that the connector going to your under dash fuse harness is in identical shape just FYI.

Very typical. Most people delete this connector entirely. However, contact cleaner and a toothbrush can clean that up and you can put Di-electric grease back in the connector afterward.

So if I do them in the under dash panel I am willing to modify those brackets as well. The idea would be that instead of pointing them straight out like factory (vents are angled down but tweeters are pointed straight out, I would probably try and mount them angled slightly upward to combat the terrible positioning. I agree on the sail panels, I think I have about 2 extra sets of those, but then I lose the charming little adjuster knobs for the mirrors that totally function correctly :V In any case I will definitely be doing a build thread on this truck. I am in the process of reconstructing what I know was down by limey so that I have a good place to start. The audio is going to get done at the same time I install a rebuilt hvac box and install a re-worked harness, fuse block, with OBD2 provisions for the interior.

I am using knock off deutsch connectors for all of my stuff but otherwise this is my exact plan...

That was my plan as well...

I need to go through that and buy a bunch of crap from them...

Interesting. I am not willing to modify any of the metal or plastic in the truck (beyond the 4x6 speaker frames conversion to 5 1/4) so tweeters in an ideal location are not really viable. My current thoughts based on this discourse is coax fronts, component rear (5 1/4) and tweeters in the under dash kick panel. I think that is likely the best I am going to get utilizing stock locations. Again everything will be amplified and crossovers added where needed. Likely still use the KSC-Sw11 sub somewhere just not sure where yet.

Found a 170 on ebay that is listed as fully functional and looks to be in good shape physically. Bought it... We shall see.

I believe this is an Automatic Radio one not a RX-170/171