cruiser54

Also, before I did anything else, I would complete Tips 1 through 5 on my website.

What if the ground for the fuel pump behind the left taillight was crappy? CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING THE FUEL PUMP GROUND JANUARY 3, 2016 CRUISER54 51 COMMENTS The fuel pump and fuel tank sending unit ground at a sheet metal screw up behind the spare tire on an XJ, and behind the driver’s taillamp on an MJ. Not only is a sheet metal screw a lousy way to ground things, this ground path is long and travels through some connectors that are prone to corrosion and moisture. Locate the black wire on the HARNESS side of the fuel pump/sender 3 wire connector. Remove a 6″ length of the split loom covering. Strip back about 1/2″ of insulation from the BLACK wire. Take your new ground wire, preferably at least 14 gauge and 12 to 18 inches long as needed, strip it about 3/4″, and wrap it around the exposed part of the harness plug wire.Solder the connection. Tape it up and reinstall the split loom covering. At the other end of your new ground wire, add a crimp on eyelet. Attach the eyelet under a bolt that goes directly into the chassis. Be sure to clean the attaching point til shiny and apply OxGard to the contact surfaces.

Isn't a new late-model radiator rather inexpensive? Kill 2 birds with one stone?

Yes.

They rarely fail and are easily tested. I've got a bunch of them. Used

That could be the issue. Incorrect IAT sensor.

clean the iat

This^^

Make sure the CPS harness is routed correctly, and not laying on or near the exhaust manifold. Wouldn't hurt to do Tip 2.

test it when it won't start and find out.

.5 and above is wonderful.

I had it on an M543A-1 military wrecker crane!!! It wouldn't stop til the 28,000 pound six wheel drive came to a complete stop. E ticket ride for sure.

Here

Nothing is gonna be the least bit easy..............

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS CONNECTOR AND RELAY/RECEPTACLE REFRESHING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 28 COMMENTS I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.

brushing it doesn't help unless you remove it for the brushing. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING THE FUEL PUMP GROUND JANUARY 3, 2016 CRUISER54 51 COMMENTS The fuel pump and fuel tank sending unit ground at a sheet metal screw up behind the spare tire on an XJ, and behind the driver’s taillamp on an MJ. Not only is a sheet metal screw a lousy way to ground things, this ground path is long and travels through some connectors that are prone to corrosion and moisture. Locate the black wire on the HARNESS side of the fuel pump/sender 3 wire connector. Remove a 6″ length of the split loom covering. Strip back about 1/2″ of insulation from the BLACK wire. Take your new ground wire, preferably at least 14 gauge and 12 to 18 inches long as needed, strip it about 3/4″, and wrap it around the exposed part of the harness plug wire.Solder the connection. Tape it up and reinstall the split loom covering. At the other end of your new ground wire, add a crimp on eyelet. Attach the eyelet under a bolt that goes directly into the chassis. Be sure to clean the attaching point til shiny and apply OxGard to the contact surfaces.

Renix CPSs generate an AC signal. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS RENIX CPS TESTING AND ADJUSTING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 113 COMMENTS Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS itself as shown in Figure 2 as Connector A, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from NAPA or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8″ from the stock 5/16″, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Another little tip to save tons of aggravation is to stick a bit of electrical tape to your 11mm socket and then shove the bolt in after it. This reduces the chances of dropping that special bolt into the bell housing.

Here's what I recommend. but, a small amount of sealant would be good. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS THROTTLE BODY TO MAP SENSOR HOSE FIX JANUARY 23, 2016 CRUISER54 43 COMMENTS The Renix throttle bodies have a strange and failure prone connector on the side where the MAP supply originates and then runs up to the MAP sensor located on the firewall. This hose/pipe assembly is no longer available for purchase. The real kicker here is how critical this line is in supplying the correct vacuum signal to the MAP, the most relied upon sensor for the ECU to read regarding air/fuel ratio. Any cracks, melted spots, or loose rubber connectors can cause major starting and driveability issues. There’s a simple fix though. All that’s required is a 1/8” NPT tap, a new throttle body gasket ( Napa FPG 60742 ), a vacuum fitting (Napa 05703-B102), two vacuum elbows (Napa CRB2670), and a length of new plastic piping (Napa CRB2672). Remove the throttle body and take it to the workbench. Using an oiled tap along with a driver, carefully thread the lower of the 2 holes of the throttle body where the old fitting was plugged in. Don’t go too deep. These are pipe threads. Flush the hole with carb cleaner and inspect for any left over cuttings. This is an excellent time to do a complete throttle body and IAC cleaning. See Tip 11. Take the vacuum fitting (05703-B102 ) and apply a LITTLE bit of thread sealer on the threads only. I prefer Permatex #2 but almost anything is fine. . Carefully screw the fitting in until snug. Install one of the vacuum elbows on the MAP sensor so it points toward the throttle body, and the other vacuum elbow on your new throttle body fitting so it points up to the MAP sensor. Cut a length of the new plastic tubing (approximately 13 inches) to fit between the vacuum elbows and install it making sure there is enough slack for some engine movement. Route it according to the photo. We don’t want any rubbing or chafing with engine movement. Not a bad idea to use some contact cement or Gasga-Cinch sparingly on the tubing to elbow connectors. Revised 2-06-2016

The dizzy should be indexed at some point, but not now. The MAP sensor has the biggest effect on richening the mixture, followed by the coolant temp sensor. The CTS can be monitored by the REM. EGR, if it isn't partially opened causing a vacuum leak, leave it alone. Sure the line from the throttle body to MAP even flows air? If it's plugged or kinked/collapsed, the MAP thinks there's low vacuum and asks the ECU to richen the mixture.

1-Intake manifold for the ground is just fine 2- Excellent idea. 3-Great 4-Is what necessary? The idea behind the Tips is to fix things before they can fail. 5- That's fine. Do the values change if you wiggle the associated wire harnesses?

None of those sensors work worth a $#!& if their ground path isn't good. Tips 1 through 5.

what engine is it? LOL.

Yup. No 110 ft/lbs for me!! I've used my 3/8 drive impact also. No worries.

The reason they loosen up is the torque spec was too low at the factory. 10 more foot pounds added to that low spec ain't gonna help. During the PDI, we used a foot long wrench and hung our whole body weight on it while the Jeep was on the lift. I weighed 185 pounds back then. I weigh that today also..... The bolts moved about 1/4 turn.

Then read that Tip backwards!!!