IronManche87

A few more pictures! And getting ready to change the head gasket.. At least it's easier the second time around! Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it." My '88 XJ 4.0L is at 287,000 miles on the original lifters, rockers, and pivot balls. You have less than half that. If you're rich and enjoy wasting money, go ahead and replace everything, but the notion of doing unnecessary work to something you don't need to touch "just because I'm working nearby" doesn't make any sense at all to me. Just replace the guide seals and do the head gasket. Yes sir! I appreciate the knowledge!! I guess I'll just hang on to that stuff for later use! I knew they wouldn't necessarily be needing replacing just found a great deal on the rockers, pivots, and bridges. Last time I removed the rockers I bent every single bridge arm so one rocker would sit funky.. And although I COULD just rebend them, I'm iffy on doing that with something so volatile.. I'd rather just replace them and not worry about a rod slipping off or sending one through my hood lol probably really unlikely but I'm not trying to mess anything up.. Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk

13 years in visalia, ca does stuff to rubbers and things.. Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk

And also my tick on my mj developed as I switched to valvoline maxxlife 10-30w. It was on sale and I figured a synthetic couldn't hurt.. I'm actually thinking about running delo 400 15-40w and seeing how that goes. Others say it cures the tick since its a heavier oil but better for higher mileage engines.

To listen for tick I put it against the valve cover probing each cylinder. For pulley wear ( I had a bad idler and couldn't figure out the screening until I did this) CAREFULLY probe parts nearest you should still be able to tell by varying distances to triangulate the culprit! While it may very well be an exhaust leak, you said it was a tick so it's always an easy way to diagnose and only takes a couple mins and a long (woodhandle works best) screwdriver. If you don't hear it slamming (Should be pretty noticeable just like tapping on a stethoscope lol) the valve cover, check intake/exhaust bolts!

How bad of a tick?? What brand/weight oil?? On my xj the tick was a bent rod, on my mj it was cuz I switched from liquid dinosaur to synthetic even though they were both 10-30w x.x usually an exhaust leak sounds like a puffing?? If that makes sense?? A way to "probe" the engine is a long screwdriver like a stethoscope to listen for ticks and bearing wear. Easiest way to tell if you have an exhaust leak is to stick your head under there. While it's still cold feel around for possible cancer spots then while it's running try and listen for leaks. Good luck!

Thank you for the input!

That might be normal. It doesn't drive like a modern vehicle with fancy dampening crap. You have to ease in and out of the throttle if you're at lower RPM. But cleaning the throttle body, IAC, and all the sensor grounds isn't going to make it worse... Amen!

When I first got my truck it was doing this as well. It would start right away and would run for maybe 5 mins and would sputter out and wouldn't fire up for a few hrs. After some research on here, I tested the cps and low and behold my cps was deader than a door nail! Swapped it out she ran like a champ for well over an hr straight right afterwards!!

False alarm guys!! I'm just an idiot!! Also got my first experience with that plastic seat/seal lol thought it was a lip in the metal when trying to get that rear o ring and that deal came out too! Luckily didnt lose it! But thanks for the info!

Hi! Sorry to thread jack x.x but on the female line in the back of the engine, I pulled out a deal that was just behind the lip and I was wondering if it was just another o ring or if it was different???

Added!! This is actually really cool!!

Essentially similar to rustys "competition" kit but is there a more reliable/better quality one?? Thank you all!!