MJanky

If they were China made that is exactly what they'd be

^^does remind me of the h3t gog It's what I expected and pretty much the Jeep I always wanted especially after they teased the Gladiator concept so many years ago. And I like that it can be had with a manual trans. Alas, I'll never be able to afford one on my fixed income.

What year is the Dodge? I've heard the older ones had problems with the rear end

I've only used it to help 2wd vehicles get unstuck...though I have worked the brake and gas on FWD cars. Never had to use it with a 4 by.

I like having an ebrake because if you have an open differential you can use it as a poor man's locker to get you out of a jam. If one wheel starts spinning (on ice or mud for instance) apply the parking brake and it will cause the diff to send power to both wheels. Of course you can work the regular brake along with the gas but using the ebrake makes it so much easier.

If anyone wants it message me

I don't suggest you try it. I don't know what your skill level is but unless you really know what you're doing it is unlikely you will end up with a system as safe or reliable as the factory design. An in tank pump might appear unsafe but there is no oxygen when the tank is sealed, the danger is while servicing them and care must be taken. An external pump is actually more prone to disaster if not installed in a safe manner. I'm personally not a proponent of fuel injection for various reasons but if I were to use it I'd accept the fuel pump the way it is as the best design.

Which side did you break? I have a driver's side one but the lens does have some cracks along the edges

The short answer is you shouldn't, but if I knew why you want to it might change my answer

So what happened with the rear main seal? Did you have to drop the trans?

Something else I just thought of, check your motor mounts and make sure they aren't loose. That's a whole other issue with the 4.0. Sometimes they break and can change the angle of the engine which can cause the shifter to become misaligned. If you do find any loose ones I'd recommend changing them now to avoid future problems.

I also wanted to tell you, unless you found out something new you should drop your trans first and have a look at your clutch. Could be something went haywire on that and maybe you don't need a trans after all. It has to come out anyway.

The good news is you'll have an easier time with it since your truck is 2wd, no messing with the transfer case. What parts you'll need depends on the AX15 that is available and if it is the internal or external slave cylinder and if not do you want to swap it to one, etc. There's plenty of info on it on Google as it has been done many times. If you can find out the year of the AX15 then you can get an idea what you'll need, again depending on if you care about the slave cylinder or just getting your truck fixed. Of course if you're going to do the swap it's always preferable to have the external slave for obvious reasons. Now about that Peugeot, the one good thing I will say about them is that they are so universally hated you can pick up another one on the cheap. People are only too happy to get rid of them. If you can't find any locally, they are small and light enough that you can have one shipped for a reasonable cost. That opens up a lot of sources. I've seen them on Fleabay for under 200 and that included shipping. I throw this info out there just in case you don't wind up with an AX15 for whatever reason. I wouldn't try to talk anyone into keeping the puke goat. If I did have one on my vehicle and I was going to keep it that way, as long as I had a place to keep them, I'd keep a couple spares on hand.

The latest I read was that it is supposed to be a 4 door pickup based on the next update of the Wrangler...meaning nobody is sure yet if it will retain the fold down windshield or other characteristics of the current Wrangler. It is expected to have a more raked windshield and be similar to the Gladiator concept but with 4 doors and a different shaped front end. As far as mechanicals, dunno yet.

Yeah you might want to take off the shifter and cover plate too and see what is happening in there, might not have been engaging the gears all the way. At this point there's nothing to lose.

I wish there was a quick fix for you. You can try the easy stuff and you might get lucky. Check to make sure you tightened all the tranny bolts, if you left any loose it might not be aligned and would hang up. Drain the fluid and check for metal pieces in it, that may tell the tale. Dip a magnet into it to be thorough. You can also try rocking the truck if it is really stuck in gear it might break loose whatever is jammed in it. Try moving the shifter while rocking it. It's the part about the noises you say it made that is of concern. If you have broken pieces in it like a gear tooth or something you might be able to clear it and have it work but you can be sure there will be more trouble on the way.

What kind of shape was the clutch in when you replaced the slave cylinder? I wouldn't expect you'd have left it as is if it was marginal while you were in there. But one never knows. And if there is no fluid loss and the clutch pedal works I wouldn't suspect the cylinders. Are you aware of the Peugeot tranny's craptastic reputation? Horror stories abound of them failing even under light use. But if it was working fine before you changed the slave cylinder it would be darn strange timing. I'd think there'd be some indication it was going out on you, but then I've read horrible things about it. Check the actual transmission case. Sometimes there are visible signs on those when they fail...sometimes gears actually come out. Look for discoloration too. It might be obvious if it has failed. No matter what it is it looks like it'll have to come apart again. Good thing you really love your MJ!

Heh. They aren't relevant to anything on my truck either. Glad to see you got your issue straightened out.

Could your catalytic converter be plugged?

Your real problem is that you have the "puke goat" trans because you are stuck with the infernal internal slave cylinder which are a notorious PITA. It is common to replace them just to have them leak again. Most that can convert to the external slave cylinder once they go through it but the Peugeot trans never had an external one to use for parts to do a swap. Swapping to a different trans is possible but it is rather involved not to mention you have to source all the parts to do it. In the meantime I hate to be the bearer of bad news but from what I've heard about the internal slaves you're likely going to have to do it over. My advice is to see what the best made slave cylinder available is and make sure you do everything exactly right...like using new o rings and washers etc where people recommend it. I'd tell you if I knew but I haven't had to do this yet on my MJ. When the day comes I'll probably convert to external, but I have a 4 cylinder with the AX4 so it's an option. Internal slave cylinders are definitely a bummer, I can't stand them.

Oh and if you like the Weber you might be able to use a Holley 5200. I don't know if I ever saw someone use one on a Jeep but I've seen them used on other vehicles in place of a Weber. You can get one cheaper so it's sort of a poor man's Weber conversion. You'll still need an intake adapter since it's a 2 barrel.

I think by upgrade the OP means more simple than the computer control carb he has, not necessarily better performance. If looking for better performance then the Weber is the way to go IMO. But if you just want simple an old all mechanical one barrel will work.

The Webers are good carbs if you can afford one or find a deal on a used one. The ones they sell in kits are usually the same carb with slightly different jetting depending on the vehicle and the adapter plate to mate it to the intake. Then they offer a choice of choke- manual, electric or water. The main difference is if you choose the progressive or synchronous 2 barrel. The synchronous one will work on a stock engine but is really for performance out of a hopped up engine. If you plan to stay stock go with the progressive. I do suggest researching the Weber for offroading. I know they work good on the street but I've seen some gripes about them from the wheeling crowd, though many do use them. IIRC, they offer or did offer one set up for offroading but it was even more $

Yep I think the only Comanches that ever came with a carb were the 86 models with the optional 2.8 GM V6, the only year they used that engine. The Comanche came along a couple years after the Cherokee and the 2.5's on them were all fuel injected. I'm one of the few around here that even thinks "downgrading" to a carb is a good idea, but there have been others. You aren't likely to get much carb input here. You might try a YJ forum, more carbed 2.5's there (I think those even still had carbs thru 86) and I'm sure owners have dumped the computer controlled ones. When I carb my MJ, I'm sure as hell not using the stock XJ/YJ carb. But there ought to be plenty that will work. I do believe I've seen write ups for bypassing all the computer stuff on the stock carb if you are so inclined so that might be an option for you. I need a carb so I'm just going to get what I want to start with. I won't advise you one way or the other on if you should do it. Only you can decide if it is the right choice for your needs. I don't know how much having the computer control carb would help for offroading mostly because I don't care but it might so you may want to look into that before ditching it.

Asking about a carb sort a gave it away :) I can't tell you yet because I'm still working on other projects before I convert my MJ to a carb (too many projects) but the first thing I'm going to look into when I do is adapting a Carter carb from an old Willys L or F head 4 cylinder. It might already match the intake pattern, I'll probably just order a Willys gasket to check first. The linkage idk but it ain't rocket science. The jetting ought to be about spot on for the 2.5 AMC. One thing is for sure, it doesn't get any simpler than one of those. I'm thinking manual choke and everything. It does look a little tall though so it might need a hole in the hood with a hood scoop or something. I'll know eventually I just don't know when at the moment. It is on my list of things to do.