JACKED88

OUCH!!! My nephew built a metal 40x60 building including the slab for about $15K. Granted he/we plus a few other family members built it ourselves. (except for pouring the slab) It really wasn't that hard. Worst part was getting the c-purlin beams 18 feet into the air. Yeah, its tall. Top of the doors are 14 feet. Building it shorter would have been much easier. I'm thinkin you need to shop around. It doesn't sound like your family friend is cutting that good of a deal.

How far off would I be if I said that looks like Colorado Springs Garden of the Gods area? A while back we took a little road trip from Denver to Colorado Springs then north into the Rockies completing a loop as it was making our way back through The Eisenhower Tunnel and returning to Denver. Although short it was an awesome trip through some beautiful county. One that I'd love to make again.

Awww, give tha kid a break. At least he's trying to learn and is doing his own work. Thats more than you can say for all the other spoiled brats that expect mommy and daddy to by um a car and pay to have it fixed. Your doing OK Brandon. But try not to advise people on things you have little or no experience on. Just because you read it somewhere (in which I think you do a lot of and thats good) doesn't qualify you to advise others based on reading alone. You'll gain knowledge and experience as you go along and with that gain the respect you'll deserve. Keep up the good work. Sorry for highjacking your thread. I now return you to your normal B/S.

Of course it doesn't make since. We're talking red neck engineering at its finest. It never seems makes since but somehow it miraculously works. No more pain in the a-s manual labor of sloshing, shaking, rattling and rolling a gas tank. With a little red neck engineering you can have your very own tank tumbler. After you've put whatever cleaning concoctions you've come up with into the tank and taped up the holes, all ya gotta do now is wrap your tank in a pc of old carpet and then ratchet strap it to the outside of one of your tractor wheels. Jack up the rear end of your tractor, fire it up, put it in whatever gear gives you a nice tumble speed and let it tumble for as long as you want. (in both forward and reverse) No, this won't work on all tanks. Best tanks for this are somewhat square. Length doesn't matter. Long flat tanks don't work as well unless you strap it to the wheel at an angle ( / ) and flip it over for the second half of your tumble time. Square tanks need to be rotated a quarter of a turn half way through your tumble time. Wrapping the tank with carpet is optional. (but it sure does cut down on the noise) If you don't wrap it , you'll still need to use some carpet or some other padding between the wheel and the tank. It protects the tank and helps hold it in place. Yall thought I was kidding didn't ya. I guarantee 30 minutes done like this works better than hours of shaking, rattling and rolling one by hand.

Last couple of tanks we cleaned we a used a tractor. :huh???: Yeah, thats right. I said a tractor. (and a 10 lb bag of lava rocks)

Yes!!! Yes it does. :rotf: Back in our late teens a buddy of mine had a white one. I think it was a 1974/75. (+/- a year) He dresses it up with some chrome wheels, a/t tires and a camper shell that had 4 bright a-s baja lights on top of it. In its time it was actually a pretty nice looking truck. Having done a quick search, picture this one in white with chrome wheels, bigger a/t's and a light bar on the camper shell. http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... 16&bih=579

No guarantees but running a little sea foam through one surely wouldn't hurt anything. Replacing injectors/poppets is a little more work than on a 4.0 but I don't think its anything you couldn't handle. Other than a few parts that have to be moved out of the way, the plenum itself only has 10 bolts holding it down. Once removed the injectors/poppets and their lines are in plane sight. Pc of cake. Worst part about the whole thing is having top climb up in the engine compartment to reach everything. Tip of the day ....... whenever your working under the hood of a truck and have access to compressed air, let the air out of the front tires. It makes reaching stuff a whole lot easier. :thumbsup:

Yeah, there's no doubt the mili-port runs better than the TBI. Good know you understood my saying they suck was referring to their performance. The TBI isn't a bad system it just doesn't compared performance wise to a muli-port system. I agree with what 86FUBAR said about the little "poppet" injectors being prone to clogging. Been there, done that. The reason for that is carbon and or varnish building up on the ends. I've also encountered leaking problems. Here a link to a pretty good article on that injection system. http://www.underhoodservice.com/Article ... nosis.aspx Pay no mind their talking about a 4.3 engine as the 5.7 uses the same system. It just has two more poppet injectors. Don't let any of this discourage you from buying a Yukon or Tahoe. None of the problems stated above are hard to fix. As for that article saying you have to replace the whole system if any part of it fails is not true. I've replaced leaking individual poppets with ones I removed from a junkyard engine. And yes, they are available from your local auto parts store for about $65 bucks a pc. If worst comes to worst, you can replace the entire injection system with an upgraded version that uses individual electronic mini injectors for about $300 bucks. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0024 The only other problem I've encountered with this system was having to replace is the fuel pressure regulator. (the round thing shown in that O'Reilly link) I think it was $50 bucks. Too bad that 96 is sold. Oh well, there's plenty out there. You'll find another one. BYW, looking at craigslist vehicles you'll pretty much have to throw patients out the window. Anything on there thats worth a crap and priced right usually sells really fast.

Looks good for its age. 180K miles might sound kinda high but on a truck thats 15 years old, 12K a year isn't really that bad. In fact, I'd venture to say it was driven easily. If everything on that truck checks out and it runs and drives good ..... I wouldn't hesitate to make an offer to buy it. However, having 180K miles does raise concerns on how much life is left in the transmission. Having had one rebuilt, I know E4L60 transmissions don't come cheap. In a shop you can expect to dish out close to $2000 bucks for a rebuild and new converter. Luckily my ins. co. picked up the tab. (less my deductible) All I'm saying is to check it thoroughly. If you know a trustworthy shop, take it to um and have um go over the whole truck. Good luck with it.

Agreed, do check all your vac lines. Its not a trans problem. Now that the weather is cooler your choke could be sticking. Once running try quickly popping/stomping on and off the gas peddle. (repeat 2-3 times as needed) Doing so will usually deactivate the choke. If not, remove the air cleaner and open the choke by hand or with a screw driver. The choke is the metal flapper plate located inside the front two barrels of the carb. On the side of the carb that black round thing controls the choke. It or the linkage to the choke can get sticky at times. Spray/clean everything with carb cleaner and see if that helps. If not you may need to adjust/back off on the choke a little. Its easy to do by simply loosening the mounting screws on the choke controller and rotating it a little. Can't remember now if you rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise. . I'm thinkin clockwise but you should be able to tell by looking at it. Don't know what else to tell ya other than not to junk it. Considering it runs and drives I'm sure you could sell it. The trans and t/c alone are worth more than a junk yard will give you for it. Hope this helped. Robert

TBI sucks!!! You want a 96 and up TPI. Other than that their good trucks. As with buying anything used, check all the usual things like if it'll pass emission test, exhaust smoke at cold start up, trans operation, trans fluid color and smell, oil leaks, exhaust system, front suspension/under carriage, brakes, check the brake peddle for excessive wear .......... you know the drill. We own a 95 with over 250K miles on it. The only major repair its ever needed was the trans having to be rebuilt at 170K. Only recently I rebuild the front suspension and steering components. Best advise ...... Be patient. You can find clean well maintained reasonably low mileage trucks if YOUR PATIENT. And ...... buy from an original owner who has or at least knows its maintenance history. Whenever you buy a used vehicle from an owner, have them drive the first few miles of the test drive giving you the opportunity to you focus all your attention on the vehicle. In doing so you should get a feel for how he/she drives the vehicle your looking to buy. Hope this helps. Good luck with it.

Agreed. I think they changed the spline count in 93. I'm talking about earlier yokes. 86-92 According to the shop thats gonna cut my shaft, Jeep used 2 yokes. A standard angle and a high angle. The slip part of the yokes are the same. The difference between them is what I was saying about one (the high angle) having a deeper u-joint cradle allowing for more shaft angle. The high angle yoke was primarily used on CJ models due to their short wheel base and even shorter drive shafts.

If thats true you've taught me something. I didnt know XJ's and MJ's used different yokes. Before sending this I did some research on XJ and MJ rear yokes and found then to have different part numbers. I'm not sure but the difference may be 2 and 4 wheel drive specific. I believe the slip part to be the same and its the u-joint yoke itself thats different. I think the difference between um is the amount of u-joint clearance and or how much shaft angle can be achieved without the shaft binding in the bottom of the u-joint cradle. I'd have to do more research (or ask somebody who knows ...... hint, hint) to know for sure what the difference is. Anybody???

I can't tell you what to do. To do it right you should do what Pete said. Otherwise its just a guess. With that said, I still don't think 4.5" of lift is enough to warrant a full inch of additional shaft length. You could actually run a stock length shaft. Yes, due to your lift it would be a little short but depending on how you drive your truck it would work fine. Do it right. Go get your yoke from the shaft shop, stick it in your t/c to where you can tell its been riding on the seal and measure from center of u-joint to center of u-joint like Pete said. (+/- 1/8" is close enough) Who knows, you might end up with a measurement thats an inch over stock but wouldn't it be better knowing its right instead of guessing?

Don't feel bad. Better late than not at all. Even if its ..... 3 days. :doh: Ditto on the belated Birthday wishes. :cheers:

I have a big h/d Craftsman (don't remember tonnage) and its a pc of sh-t. First thing that failed was the bolt head it uses for the valve control rounded off making it impossible to open or close the valve by turning the handle. I had to use channel locks to turn the geared wheel that opens/closes the valve. Second is the hydraulic plunger started leaking resulting in having to add fluid just about every time I needed to use it. It now sits in the garage collecting dust. I'm currently using an aluminum low pro that works great. [Alltrade Trades Pro 3000lbs./1.5ton Aluminum Racing Jack Model No. 837000] Granted it being a low pro I usually have to add a 4x6 block of wood on top of it but other than that it's the best jack I've ever owned. And a lot lighter to boot.

Depends on if and how heavily you load your truck bed. For that reason I wouldn't go 1 inch longer than stock. 1/2" maybe but not a full inch. With a loaded bed your truck will be getting closer to stock height. As such if your shaft is 1 inch longer than stock and you hit a dip or whatever in the road causing the rear to squat down even more your likely to over extend the drive shaft and damage the trans/tc. Better to have it 1/2" short than 1/2" too long. So your not taking the word of just one person, I'm pretty sure some of the other guys here will agree.

Yep, here you come riding with a designated driver ....... RIGHT!!!

Your kidding ..... Right??? Most of you youngsters were still in diapers or not even born before they quit building MJ's. Anything older than a 2000 is old for yall. :rotf: Still wanna know how old I am? Do the math. I was 31 when they built my 88 MJ. :hmm:

There's more tires out there but here's a nice list of some to look at. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/wheels ... tires.html Hope it helped.

I need to remove a rear slider window. Whats the best way to get it out without bending the frame or breaking anything?

HO-HO-HO MERRY CHRISTMAS Lets not forget the men and women in the armed forces who've sacrificed being with their loved ones to keep us safe. Let us pray for their very lives and safe returns to their families. From our family to yours. God bless you all. BEWARE!!! We all know there's gonna be a lot of party goers driving on the roads. Knowing that ..... NEVER, trust the other guy. Please have a safe and happy holiday season.

Used to drive a purple 1972 Gremlin X that belonged to a buddy. Had a 304 / 3 speed on the floor. Only mods it had was a 4 barrel intake and duel exhaust. Ran great and was a blast to drive. Any of you know who Gary Wells is? He's a motorcycle jumper kinda like Evel Knievel was. Gary was sponsored by AMC. He tried to beat some of Knievel's jumps including one at Caesar's Palace Fountains in Las Vegas, September 15, 1980. He didn't make it. Broke bones from head to toe. http://www.cyclejumpers.com/garywells.html (note the cars he's jumping) Gary lived off Memorial Drive on the west side of Houston not far from a bio we used to ride our motorcycles on. We though we were bad on our little track. That was till Gary would show up in his stars and stripes custom painted 401ci Gremlin X with his bike in tow on a trailer. The boy could definitely ride. Used to go around our little track doing a one handed wheelie. Show offfffff!!! His Gremlin was awesome. Custom painted American stars and stripes, Cragar wheels, chrome side pipes, custom interior. Sometimes we'd go cruising around with him. Talk about doing burn outs. That thing could smoke the tires all the down the block. I can remember going down the Katy fwy / I-10 at over 140. Felt like it was about to lift off the ground and take flight. Even though it scarred the crap out of us, it was a blast. I've done a little searching trying to find a pic of it but haven't found one yet. I'll keep looking.

No guts .... No glory. I'd pack up and go anywhere in mine. (as long as somebody else was buying the gas) JEEP ON TRUCKIN!!!

Shoot, my bones are too damn old to be crawling around on the ground. I did something as simple as a rear brake job in the driveway the other day and I'm still sore from it. My nephews installation of a lift in his shop can't come soon enough for me. I'll be using it more than he will.