Big Dan

Yes sir, that's correct. Unfortunately, I'm an idiot and tossed the old radiator as soon as I replaced it. Edit - I bought an ir thermometer to test that out tomorrow. My gauge has acted weird before and it might have gotten worse . Previously, the gauge would read correctly with engine running, but if the key was in just the on position, it would max out. Maybe it finally crapped.

I've done everything I can think of. As mentioned previously, I've tried parking on a hill as well as removing the sending unit. I also tried squeezing all of the hoses to help air burp out.

Forgot to mention, I have a regular mechanical fan. It is not thermally operated.

Quick background, I have an open cooling system. There was a small leak in the radiator, so I put in a new one. Now, my vehicle will slowly over heat (takes about ten mins) until 260. Idle or driving doesnt effect this. I have a new cap, changed thermostats and checked the lower hose. Everything looks good. I've done everything i can think of to get any potential air out of the system (parked on a hill, remove sending unit, etc). I have NOT changed the water pump and if you all think it is the culprit, I will. However, fluid flows thru the upper hose and it gets hot to the touch. Outside of that, I'm really clueless on how to proceed. Any help is appreciated.

It's not a torx bolt that you want to remove. It's a 24mm nut, if I remember correctly, on the passenger side.

Anyone have any links for steering shafts for manual steering boxes (ie - not power steering) ?

In hind sight, I should have practiced, but no I didn't. I just learned what I could and went at it. You'll start to figure it out as you go. It's not like you can really mess up your floor pan any more than it already is.

The floor boards rusted out are pretty normal for most folks. The first welding I ever did was with the floor. Watch a lot of videos, do some reading and you'll be fine.

I do believe that's what it was. Thanks again for everyone's help.

Well, your alls help did it. Thank you. The constant was getting voltage, but apparently the was an issue with the wire under the dash somewhere. I ran a new constant wire and it the radio starts up perfectly.

Gene, This worked.. On both radios. So, I'm obviously doing something wrong underneath the dash. What doesn't make sense, however, is the voltage at the harness is correct -a little under 14 with the vehicle running. Is it possible I'm not supplying enough amperage? As I stated previously, the radio contacts on the fuse block were broken, so I am running the ignition line from the clock's plug in (on the fuse block).

Who knows, I might have to. That coax for the plug into the back of the radio is in the correct location (where the radio is). That line ran to the dangling end, however. I assumed that the dangling coax would hook into the antenna somewhere.

Double post Edit - to clarify the above post, where does the antenna wire connect into the physical antenna? That wire is dangling by the passenger side door

I RMAd the old head unit. Still no power up with the new unit. Ive tested the ground, constant and ignition at the harness and everything is good to go. After digging around the antenna to make sure everything was good to go with that, I found the following dangling. Someone mentioned that the antenna played a part in the ground. I can't find where exactly it plugs in. Any help would be appreciated.

Well, wired everything up. Constant and ignition voltage is good as is the ground. So, I guess the new head unit is dead on arrival. Ill return and go from there.

I found it, thank you. I'll run the ground to that location in my attempts tomorrow.

It may be my laziness and if so, I'll have to wait until tomorrow. I originally attempted to wire the new radio with just the constant, ignition and ground to ensure it would turn on before I wired everything else. I did not have the antenna plugged in. I just now plugged in the antenna, no change. With that said, the speaker wires are currently connected from the speakers to electric tape. If you theory is correct and they are still grounded (by being wrapped in tape) , I'll wire them up tomorrow and give it a go. This is frustrating.

Yes,the constant receives power as normal. I ran a new line for the ignition power and a new line for the ground. Still nothing. I'm at a loss as to where to go.

With that said, I still may have not been getting a good ground. The FSM does not show where the ground is located. Does anyone know?

I wasn't sure where the ground wire (from the original wiring) ran to, so I just ran a new wire from the radio to ground. No luck.

Long story short, my radio died (I thought). So, I bought a new one. New one wouldn't turn on. Fuse for the radio was fine, but upon further inspection, the actual contact on the box was broken. I ran a new line from the an open accessory slot and tested for power..it receives power. However, neither radio will turn on. Any one had an issue like this?

My 86 has the ax4 with an external slave. I am looking at potentially swapping in an ax5 for overdrive purposes (the ax15 swap is way about my skill level). With that said, does it matter if the ax5 I get came from an internal or external slave bell housing? I am assuming (I hope correctly) that if I reuse my old bell housing and external slave, the ax5 should bolt up. Is that correct?

Am I correct in saying that it's just the four bolts on either side that hold the bumper bracket on?

Awesome, Ill give it a try this weekend and see what I can do. Thanks for the help.

Ill give that a try. I was under the assumption that the hole for the bolt was threaded. Is that incorrect? IE - if I knock off the retaining nut in the frame, the bolt should come out?