4.0forlife

Well guys bad news it's back and worse then ever I'm thinking the fuel pumps on the way out

thanks cruiser. i feel really dumb in hindsight being i was asked if it was a vac leak in the beginning. but i never expected it to be in the little distribution block on the intake.

Ok so the problem is still there after the plugs wires cap and rotor well i played with some vacuum lines and i think that the problem is solved my lines are pretty bad so i ordered new ones but i hope i can call it fixed.

I have mine for about 2 months carry a can of wd40 with you. The hiem joints start squeeling after a bit

Yes I have done that about 6 months ago Changed cap rotor plugs and wires today with brand new ones. The contact pad on the rotor was twisted like. Almost like it bit on the cap pin and rolled over. So I'll report back once I drive it tomorrow. Side note what plugs are you guys running I had champions but I was told to throw them away and use autolites or bosch ones

it goes to 39 lbs so i swapped in a set of volvo injectors and it idles better. but the problem still proceeds

It's like 31 to 32 lbs running

I had put a set of in injectors from dirty jeep guy here on the forums. But I can give it a shot

Its a new problem that occurred after pulling the head. A new coil fixed most of the current problem l. The old one was rigged to fit an msd two wire coil. But I've done some of the tips. The sensor grounds, ground cleaning, adding a ground wire, and yes I've checked the tps. Tryed a new one and check that twice. Also checked my vacuum lines and all wire connections. Did a fuel pressure test and it goes to 39 with the key one but doesn't hold the pressure. It drops down to 0 in 2 seconds. But holds 32ish lbs at idle. That also drops to zero in seconds when the truck is shut off.

Ok so my grandfather gave a new coil to try and it cleared most of the problem up now it falls on its face if I try to pull out below 1k rpms

ok ive replaced the egr and it seems to have stopped! yay. on another note i had to pull the head to replace the freeze plug on the back side of it. now when every now and then when i give it throttle it has a hell of a bad misfire symptom and goes to a 200 rpm idle like zone. it i let off it almost dies, catches itself and runs fine. or if i mash the throttle down it picks up but still had the misfire threw the rpm range. now once i let it idle after the event in question it runs fine for a short while and then starts acting up again. mainly it occurs when i try to pull out being i don't like using gobs of throttle when i let the clutch come up. any help is greatly appreciated

It maybe longer or shorter then the 4x4 one. That being said I had to get one from summitracing because they were the only one I could find that had the right ends and length. Hope this helps

Happened today going to work. The rpms seem to stay still through the event

I ran stock newer cherokee rims 5.5 offset with 33s on my truck. Only problem I had was the tires grabbing the lower control arms at harder turns

I don't blame you. I don't want the bucking either although it hasn't shown it face since I made the thread. Maybe I'll look into thr egr this weekend. It's worth a shot. I also have a new map and cps coming from rockauto

wow ive really fallen down on the updates. but i have done a little to the truck. i got tired of trying to stop the truck but shoving my foot threw the floor. so i hopped on the band wagon for the 99 wj break booster and master swap. i pulled the part from the boneyard for 26 bucks not bad i might say. but i never could get a firm pedal. no matter how much i bled the system it was always spongy. so i broke down and bought a new master at napa now i have awesome stopping power. i took the truck to a local spot that we know as the silt dams. the ol girl surprised me for having open rears she went where i pointed her. she also hit a milestone the other day

Not what I wanted to hear even though it's been coming to my mind too. I should add that I also have a random high idle, like a 2000 rpm high idle and it lasts for as long as it wants until it goes to the rough idle. Also it's been taking longer to start lately.

No the lights and everything stay on. It's like something kills the power to coil for a split second.

Svpete yes it's like a buck. Eagle I'll have to check next time it happens being random its hard to watch the tach and road at the same time waiting for it to happen

I replaced the filter about 4 months ago. It's an 88 comanche 4.0 I had good fuel pressure back when I replaced the filter I haven't checked recently tho

It could be but I didn't get a high idle from spraying brake clean around the engine compartment

hey guys having searched on the forums and countless other websites and not finding an answer to my problem i bit the bullet and opened a new thread. i thought that ive been imagining this but it became clear last night i have not. i was driving home and all the sudden the truck fell on its face and immediately regained itself. leaving me all but kissing the steering wheel and putting me back in the seat again. ive replaced the tps and set it to the right voltage using cruisers tips, the iac, o2 sensor. also at idle sometimes the truck wants to idle down to 200 rpms before coming back to a loopy inconsistent idle. its got me worried that I'm not gonna be able to make it home one of these days.

you should think about selling those adapters

thanks guys it means a lot

well today was the day that i battled the dreaded rear main seal while the motor was still in the truck. the pan was a bit of a pig coming off with the factory cork gasket sticking it to the block. then there was the main seal. ive read horror stories that the seal could take hours of hammering on to break lose. to my surprise one bump with a hammer and punch and mine slid right out. also after 220,000 miles there was only the tiniest amount of sludge in the pan. so that made me happy.