Newton

The brake line setup was pretty straight forward i just swapped in the xj prop valve i left all the lines in the same location as on the mj valve minus the line in the nose which is rear brake line so now with the xj valve setup the port for rear brake line is now feeding the height sensing valve so you just disconnect that line from the height sensing valve and screw it on to main feed line going to the rear wheels and youre set..

Rear end done...C 8.25 with disk conversion...xj prop valve with zj internals for load sensing valve elimination..

Yup thats one sweet Truck :thumbsup:

looks good for a $300 truck better condition than mine when i bought it for $200 more.. keep the pics coming..

Wow this thing is a rust bucket kinda reminds me of mine when i just bought it.. you have your work cut out but i'm sure nothing you can't handle...all the best!

Sweet. 300$ ain't to bad for something that runs yeah, i am so pumped. ive been wanting a comanche since i was in high school i will be posting pictures when i finish the swap You don't have to wait till you finsh the swap to post pictures you can do it as you go along thats y its a project thread i'm sure the the guys on here would be happy to follow along.. Good deal by the way like jackrabbit said not bad for something that runs...

Check out this BEAST!!..don't think i have seen it on here but i think its pretty badass.. Courtesy of Fourwheeler Network http://www.fourwheeler.com/features/1607-jeep-comanche-full-of-custom-tricks/ Tech Specs 1986 Jeep Comanche Drivetrain Engine: 5.3L V-8 Transmission: 700R4 4-speed automatic Transfer Case: NP231 Front Axle: Dana 44 with 4.88 gears, Nitro axleshafts, and U-joints Rear Axle: Dana 60 with 4.88 gears, ARB Air Locker, and disc brakes Suspension Springs & Such: Rusty’s 6-inch lift coils, Fox 2.0 shocks, and custom long arms (front); spring-over conversion, Rusty’s shocks, custom traction bar (rear) Tires & Wheels: 37x13.5R17 Nitto Mud Grappler on 17x8 American Racing steel Steering: PSC steering pump and reservoir, Surplus Center hydraulic ram, tapped factory steering box Lighting: 50-inch XPRite LED light bar Other Stuff: Custom front bumper, Badlands 10,000-pound winch, Rough Out Performance tube fenders, CFS radiator, Novak motor mounts and wiring harness, Flowmaster muffler, PSC steering pump, Surplus Center steering ram

Removed my back glass to fix some rust around the glass seating after i installed the glass back i had a small leak so i removed it again but this time the rubber gasket got damaged and i couldnt source one anywhere maybe at a junk yard if you're lucky i have tried no success so i did the next best thing just installed the windshield without it all together the rubber is purely cosmetic IMO and actually got it to seat better without the rubber and no leaks if your a perfectionist maybe you would rather the factory look with the rubber installed i probably would too but hey my truck is almost 30 i don't expect everything to look factory and don't think it looks bad without the rubber anyway...

Thanks guys was yea I'm staying spring under think I'm just gonna eyeball mine as well and see what happens from there. Kind of like if it's a little screwed up, it's just like just a being a little bit pregnant. Eyeball method is bad, especially if you weld it up, its not right, and the guy who knows how to use an angle finder/protractor just shakes his head and charges you twice for what you could have done proper the first time. Angle finder costs less than $10... How come no one has posted a write up on this so dumb fellows like me can follow and learn how to use the angle finder to do this the proper way??

Thanks guys was yea I'm staying spring under think I'm just gonna eyeball mine as well and see what happens from there

I'm in the process of swapping in a chrysler 8.25 and trying to collect as much information as i can before i proceed with the swap can anyone share some advice on setting the right pinion angle and going about welding on the new spring perches?

thanks

so as long as i swap in the xj valve with the zj internals i can eliminate the load sensing valve in the rear?...and is the xj/zj valve a direct bolt on or do i have to make any modification to the lines?

do you have a diagram or pictures of how u marry the tubes together and the adjustable valve for the rear for the amateurs like me?

Thanks i'll check it out

Any write ups on swapping zj disk brakes to 8.25? don't think i saw anything in the diy section or can anyone whos done the swap before share some insight especially in reference to proportioning valves can i eliminate it or is it needed or what..i currently don't have one in the back on my mj

Fuel pump died after i hadnt start truck in a couple weeks had plan on changing it anyway as the fuel gauge never worked since i bought the truck so plan was to change pump and sending unit anyway so did a little research and came across the delphi 10148 from auto zone theres a thread on it here somewhere so decided to go with that but so happened when i got it.. it was different than what i had in my tank..PO told me that the fuel tank had been changed not too long before i bought the truck so i don't know the if the tank i had was exact replacement.. seemed to be..think is an 18gl tank anyway still decided to try to force the pump in there got it to sit in there putt the locking ring in place then tried to start but couldnt hear the pump prime and wouldnt start so started checking connections couldnt find any power going to the pump started noticing all types of electrical problems i was getting ground going to positives on relays and fuses never imagined the new pump would have been the cause might have been grounding or something inside the tank being that it didnt fit properly had to wiggle it a bit to mak it stay as soon as i pulled out the pump everything was back to normal so was thinking it was time to start searching for another pump or try to make this one work i could change the pump itself to the old sending unit no problem but the old sending unit needed changing because it didnt work so before i went to buy anything i decided to mess around with it and here's what i came up with... Old and new pump arms on old are much longer than new.. Took the new pump out and put it on the old sending unit And now for the old sending unit i cut it off from the assembly.. Cut off the new One as well.. Then i welded on the new sending unit to the old assembly.. the floater arm on the old one had looked about level with the fuel filter at the bottom of the pump so in order for the new shorter floater to be at about the same position with the old one i welded the new one beneath the mounting location where the old one was.. So i put the pump back in the tank and was happy to hear the truck running again but then i took a look at the gauge and noticed it was reading reversed :doh: Knew i would have to be taking the pump out again hate to be under there and having gas spilling all over you... anyhow i took it out again and tried swapping the wires on the sending unit to reverse the polarity to see if it would read correctly..but still didnt fix it so will just have to get use to reading the gauge in reverse E= everythings good F= find nearest gas station :yes:

Found out it was the new delphi fuel pump I put in the tank was causing a short circuit somehow was not sitting properly in there..and damn that pump is loud can't hear myself think in the cab is it suppose to be buzzing this loud?

Should not be. Open up the harness below the fuel pump relay socket. i opened up the harness below the relay an orange wire is strip but its not touching anything is it possible something could be grounding under dash also getting ground going to the trans fuse under dash?

ok so i have a ground coming to pin 30 85 and 87 on the fuel pump relay i'm guessing this shouldnt be?

neither the b+ latch relay nor the fuel pump relay has voltage at pin 30 all the rest do

how do i check the fusible link at the starter and also the #79...please excuse me i'm a lil new to this

no power is coming to the fuel pump relay socket why is that?

yes ballast is good tried bypassing it as well still no power..ground behind tail lamp is good ive checked up to fuel pump relay don't know if there is something else I'm missing and what more weird about it is a couple days ago the truck worked fine didnt start it for about 2 days when i tried to start it after that ..nothing...bought the delphi fuel pump from autozone which doesnt even fit in my tank which i think is an 18 gallon cut off the line up tabs on it so it could sit in tank don't even know if its gonna work but atleast id like to get some power to it so i can try it..damn blasted thing :fs1:

OK so my pump went bad and this happened all of a sudden..well assuming it did took it out hooked it up directly to battery no buzzing or any life whatsoever so i bought a new fuel pump put it in now truck doesnt want to start i don't hear the pump priming when i turn on ignition pump works when i hook it up directly checked that orange live wire traced it all the way to the fuel pump relay and its not broken swapped the relays around still nothing ballast has continuity but i read somwhere that i was suppose to get 12 volts on pin 30 at the relay but I'm getting 0 ..checked the relay next to it and there 12 volts on pin 30 but not on the fuel pump relay socket can someone please tell me what i should check next?