kro10000

http://tandjperformance.com/store/index ... ath=20_119 Anyone have any experience with these? With the flared front fenders I bet it'd look sweet

x3

:agree: Wix is definitely a good filter, the Mobil 1 and K&N are possibly better, though expensive Anyway back to topic, yeah you mightve gotten yourself a defective filter

Reminds me of the mid-eighties ford 3/4 and one tons (don't like it much), I'd rather have an extended cab and not have all that wheelbase. I think itd be cool to stretch a cab and use doors from a 2 door XJ, to help visibility and getting things from behind the seats... Now if only I was worth a darn at fabricating :(

:cheers: Id rather have a high strung 289 than a dog of a 390 anyway. I'm not a big fan of the FE engines, except the Cammer 427 :drool: :drool: :drool:

The Bullet car was a 390 not a 289

James Bond, Diamonds are Forever, love the 71 (72?) Mach 1 getting chased by the cops. That was one of the few American Bond cars (dare I say the only?). Also liked the original gone in sixty seconds, also Taken (besides the added V8 soundtrack)

What brand filter do you use? Hopefully not fram

I can definitely relate....

:agree: Id settle for a video though...

:USAflag: Let me repeat the others in thanking you for your service :bowdown: Nice ZJ, looks WAY better without the running boards. Though swapping out that NP249 should definitely be on a to-do list. Thanks again!! :cheers:

Actually special ball joints on the front axle will allow camber to be adjusted, they are offset in the circle, although I cannot remember the part # now. These could possibly be used to correct a bent axle for the time being, I know at oreillys there are the Moog brand, and specialty products brand ball joints that are adjustable, and decent quality. You will have to ask specifically for them as counterpeople generally will not offer them, as they are pretty uncommon. Good luck

I am 99% positive the disk is facing the correct direction, I checked it, checked it again, and a third time... I do not believe that is the problem, as the problem I have now is the same one I had before, only a little worse... The only piece I haven't replaced in this entire clutch hydraulic system is the small line that runs into the bellhousing into the slave. It was a little rusty, but I couldn't find a replacement for it in time so I ran it (why the slave didnt come with a new one I will never know. So I am considering a one last shot at bleeding the syetem, and if that fails I am just going to tear the whole thing apart Anyone relatively close to my area have a external slave bellhousing (and misc parts) that they are wanting to get rid of?

Ha, that'd do it... After I redid the mustangs suspension, I had to drive it for a couple weeks, and it was all over the place, turns out toe was in 2 degrees on one side and 4 degrees on the other

Could be several things, but possibly a clogged cat, especially if it is original... Id definitely do plugs, wires, cap, rotor... And some seafoam

:drool: That trailer is niiice

I have a few pointers with MAACO jobs... Prep it yourself, pull emblems, sand, etc, etc Then, ask to have your truck painted last on a Friday. That way it will sit in the booth until monday so the paint will have time to set up, and be protected from dust, bugs, etc...

Well since I work at O'Reilly's I bought everything from there. My flywheel was a Sachs brand, and my clutch kit was Dynapak (although we just did a relabel, so the Dynapaks will be sold until we are out of stock, then we will be selling Sachs brand clutch kits) Strangely enough, my clutch disk was worn more on the inside :???: But it appears to be flat... I can't remember where I read it, but somewhere I heard that the BA-10 flywheel was concave, and the AX-15 was flat, but I have since been told otherwise, and I believe the part numbers at O'Reillys for the older XJ/MJ flywheels are the same as the newer ones. I digress, so you guys think the flywheel couldn't possibly be causing my clutch engagement woes? I am seriously considering dropping the transmission again tomorrow to inspect everything.

Well just prior to turning the flywheel, we brought the cutting bit down to the flywheel, and it definitely WAS NOT FLAT, the outside edge was higher, and it tapered inward, so I am confused

bump

Right, so I bought a new one, but this one is flat, thats what I have in there now The reason I did the clutch job in the first place is because I suspected a bad slave cylinder. So I have now replaced the master, slave, line, disk, pressure plate, and flywheel in the MJ. I cannot engage any gear if I start in neutral and the engine is running. I can start in first but the clutch is still grabbing some with the pedal depressed. My pedal is WAY firmer than before the slave completely gave up the ghost. I have been bleeding this forever, trying all sorts of different methods, so I really don't think air in the line is the problem, unless it could be either a bad new master, slave, or that short piece of line going into the slave.

So I was the dumb guy that decided to resurface his flywheel (cause when you can fix something that isnt broken, why not? Right?) I was them promptly told that that was a bad move, and that the flywheel was concave FOR A REASON... I decided I wasnt gonna see what would happen, and ordered a new flywheel... (Sachs brand from O'Reilly's) Just prior to installation, my buddy has a hard time believing that Jeep flywheels are concave, so he picks up a straightedge to show me... AND HE WAS RIGHT (on this one anyway) However, I was done messing around, and decided that if this product couldn't possibly work it wouldnt be sold :dunce:, so I put it in and got everything back together That was about a month ago.... So Fast Forward to today I have no DD, the Mustang decided to completely annihilate its own valve seals to the extent of me being the sole contributor of smog in the midwest. I have spent countless hours bleeding this clutch, but am getting very little disengagement :headpop:, I even replaced the crappy rubber clutch hose with a steel line. So to get down to the point, could this FLAT flywheel possibly be causing my :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: ? If so, where do I find a good Jeep Flywheel, (and please please please don't send me to a dealership, I simply cannot afford to pay their rediculous prices.... I understand marketing expenses, but jeez how much does a MOPAR logo really cost?) :help:

Apparently the ZJ disks can be made to fit, but its WAY easier to use crown vic or exploder brakes (go figure) I wonder if the Lincoln Mark VII vented disks could be made to fit, they are also on a Ford 8.8. I may try to swap those onto my XJ D44 and do a write up, but I have already gone through the brakes on it, at a significant cost. Anyone price out XJ or MJ D44 drums lately? Parts stores are mighty proud of em, reason enough to switch to disks. ;) D35 brakes fit just fine on them if you're on a budget. So ZJ dana 35 disk brakes will boltup? No, the D35 drum setup will bolt onto the D44 (a fact I had wished I had known before shelling out $125 Per drum) As far as I know, there are no factory disk brake setups that will BOLT UP to an XJ/MJ D44, all are gonna require some work, the 8.8 disks probably being easiest

:huh???: I'm so confused

http://www.blueovalnews.com/index.php?c ... icleid=803 Can't say I'm surprised, since they've been brought down to pure badge engineering. Still it's pretty sad to see a company with such a proud heritage die this way.