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Jackrabbit41

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Everything posted by Jackrabbit41

  1. I used a kit from a local hardware store. And the light bar made my doors leak because of the mounts but once I build a roof rack I'll mount another one on the roof rack. It was a good light bar though. Lots of fun
  2. The parts manual doesn't even list an 18 gallon tank for the 87-90 longbeds, only 16 and 23.5 tanks. Some of the 87-90 shortbeds did come with an 18 gallon tank however. BUT, anything's possible......... Ya I have a 16 for sure I just thought maybe I was being dumb and it actually was 18. But would a stock 23.5 bolt right in on my long bed?
  3. So I have a train horn which is obnoxious enough but I though a PA system with sirens would be fun too so I ordered the horn blasters 100watt PA system. Came in the mail yesterday so hopefully il have it in soon!
  4. I'm confused. I have a long wheel base but a 18 gallon tank. Do most have 23.5s with long wheel base
  5. If ya look at my build thread you'll see that I already have nates 4x4 front bumper and rock sliders but I bought some rear bunker mounts from him a few moths ago and have supplies to make myself a new rear bumper. But it's just one of those things I haven't gotten around to doing haha
  6. Ya I was thinking that but my friend didn't like the look of it so we left the red ones off
  7. Next weekend were putting on a aluminum skid plate in that front slot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Here ya go. I didn't really have to do any bends more then 25 degrees but this is the first bumper I've ever built and it turned out amazing! I love it. It's hard to see in pictures cause everything's black but it's awesome. It's on a 91 Ranger. The frame was bent so I beat it back to straight then used 1/4inch steel to box in about 6 inches of the frame for strength. The bumper is mounted from 4 positions off of the truck so its on there good. I used schedule 40 because it's mostly for looks. That's a 40 degree bend with no kinking or dents. When it gets nicer out I'll text my friend and try to get better pics. It was censored in my garage so I couldn't get the whole truck in the photo Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Pics or it didn't happen! :D I'll get some good ones this weekend when the bumpers done
  10. What is it? Haha I know nothing about my quad
  11. I've seen other guys talk about the stator. What is it and where is it?
  12. So I tried bending some 1 1/2 schedule 40 and it worked perfect! Got a 45 no problem without any denting or kinks so I'm happy!
  13. So I have a 2005 Yamaha 350 raptor. I had it running one day and then I turned it off. Then about 10 minutes later I tried to start it again and it cranks but doesn't fire over. Pulled the plug and I have no spark. I'll I've done now is put in a new plug, still no spark, and check fuses. I don't really know much about what to check next. Just looking for some help. I checked some of the connections and everything looks good and not corroded. Also this quad is leaking some kind of oil. It's not engine oil becuase every time I check the oil it's in the same spot. I don't know what else it could be because it uses a wet clutch so isn't the motor oil the only oil in there? It ain't brake fluid either. It's coming from underneath the thing behind the foot shift lever. Thanks y'all hopefully you guys know about atvs too!
  14. damn i love this thing, what motor is it gonna have?
  15. I've always wondered how much my truck weighed so when I was at the scrap yard and the truck was empty it weighed 4,320 pounds which is about a grand over stock I think
  16. Terrible generalization and pretty much just 'wrong.' If we were talking ABS or PVC, yeah, sure. Steel? No. ASTM-A53 standards are for structural rated pipe that is made from carbon steel, and they spec very similar in mechanical properties to A37 steel. You probably see A37 steel in use all the time as angle iron, flat bar, channel, H beams (W-flange), and many other structural steel shapes. ASTM-A53B is actually stronger than A37 by some 10-15%, IIRC. Note, these standards are not as strong as DOM, which is about 100% stronger, depending on exact grade. Steel pipe also comes in other standards for other applications. I don't want to talk about that, because there is a lot of them, and while some are useful and many are not (you can buy T-304 stainless pipe, it's useful for some things, but pretty irrelevant to this conversation). Pipe that is built to a standard will have that inked down the length of it, or tagged, or bundled. Places like Homedepot will probably sell ASTM-A53 pipe, but they may not, go to a real steel yard and you will get the correct type (they typically will not carry any non standard steel pipe as their customers have no use for it). The ASTM-A53 pipe is also very similar to many of the HREW/ERW tubing standards. Pipe sizing is odd, as it is a carryover from 'old times'. You basically need a pipe size table to know what the hell it is. The ones I use most are 1.5" sch40 (pronounced 'schedule 40' and it refers to the thickness of the wall), which is something like 1.92" OD and .145" wall thickness, giving something around a 1.5" inside diameter (how they're actually sizing it), and 1.5" sch80 (thicker wall) and 1.25" sch40/80 and 1" sch40/80. I keep short lengths of the smaller stuff around to use for making sleeves and bushings, it isn't much use for anything else. A pipe bender and dies are for bending pipe, but most of the cheap ones need work to actually function correctly. Generally they're way too wide, and will cause flattening (which is not desirable), so the inside of the dies are best welded up and ground smooth to tighten them a bit. Also the rollers are normally a terrible design and will cause denting, guys replace them with angle iron and other bits, but that's up to you. As to roll cage construction, since somebody brought it up, it's fairly common in the offroad world for HREW/ERW tubing to be used for cage construction. Typically 1.5"x.120 or 1.75"x.120 for a midsized vehicle. 1.25" sch40 pipe is stronger than 1.5"x.120 ERW due to the large dimensions (both OD and wall thickness), and 1.5" sch40 is stronger than 1.75"x.120 ERW for the same reason. That said, SHOULD you be building the majority of a cage from any of these materials? Probably not, but it happens. I see little harm in building certain less critical pieces from them though. The main hoops and "driver safety critical areas" should always be DOM or like material, IMHO. Anyways, in summary, pipe can be used in many places structurally as long as you realize it is what it is. Hopefully somebody actually reads that, rather than having their eyes glaze over and skipping it. It took me a while to type. Thanks this is really good to know
  17. Ya he mostly wants it for looks so I think pipe will be better. I've heard these benders that I have work a lot better with pipe too
  18. Making the bumper for a 91 ford ranger
  19. I was given a harbor freight pipe bender. Like the orange bottle Jack kind. First of all, what's the difference between tube and pipe? Second, any techniques with these to not getting wrinkles? I've watch some videos on it but just want to know for y'all cause y'all are the best. Also I'm going to build a pre runner bumper for a friend and just wondering size/diameter of pipe/tube I should use. I know DOM is best but I've heard it's very pricey and this thing seems like pipe would be plenty strong. Thanks y'all!
  20. Thanks I guess I better start looking
  21. It's kinda hard for me to think about everything at once so if I got this block it would hold me over until the next thing haha
  22. No. The link is to an ad for a Renix 4.0L block. To make that into a stoker, he'll still need to source a 258 crank, plus rods and pistons. That's kinda what I want to do. I'm gonna go through everything and slowly over a year or so build this thing. I just thought this might be a good pace to start. I want to do everything right and go all new on this bad boy. If I do do that, would something like this be a good idea to get? Or should I go pull a motor from a junkyard or something? Thanks for the help!
  23. So would something like this work? I'm wanting to get almost all new parts but then some stuff I'll just swap over from my motor like the intake manifold and such. All I need is the block and heads and another then that I'm pretty good right? This is probably a stupid question but I just saw this ad so I thought I'd ask haha http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/5491065393.html
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