Jackrabbit41

I've seen other guys talk about the stator. What is it and where is it?

So I tried bending some 1 1/2 schedule 40 and it worked perfect! Got a 45 no problem without any denting or kinks so I'm happy!

So I have a 2005 Yamaha 350 raptor. I had it running one day and then I turned it off. Then about 10 minutes later I tried to start it again and it cranks but doesn't fire over. Pulled the plug and I have no spark. I'll I've done now is put in a new plug, still no spark, and check fuses. I don't really know much about what to check next. Just looking for some help. I checked some of the connections and everything looks good and not corroded. Also this quad is leaking some kind of oil. It's not engine oil becuase every time I check the oil it's in the same spot. I don't know what else it could be because it uses a wet clutch so isn't the motor oil the only oil in there? It ain't brake fluid either. It's coming from underneath the thing behind the foot shift lever. Thanks y'all hopefully you guys know about atvs too!

damn i love this thing, what motor is it gonna have?

I've always wondered how much my truck weighed so when I was at the scrap yard and the truck was empty it weighed 4,320 pounds which is about a grand over stock I think

Terrible generalization and pretty much just 'wrong.' If we were talking ABS or PVC, yeah, sure. Steel? No. ASTM-A53 standards are for structural rated pipe that is made from carbon steel, and they spec very similar in mechanical properties to A37 steel. You probably see A37 steel in use all the time as angle iron, flat bar, channel, H beams (W-flange), and many other structural steel shapes. ASTM-A53B is actually stronger than A37 by some 10-15%, IIRC. Note, these standards are not as strong as DOM, which is about 100% stronger, depending on exact grade. Steel pipe also comes in other standards for other applications. I don't want to talk about that, because there is a lot of them, and while some are useful and many are not (you can buy T-304 stainless pipe, it's useful for some things, but pretty irrelevant to this conversation). Pipe that is built to a standard will have that inked down the length of it, or tagged, or bundled. Places like Homedepot will probably sell ASTM-A53 pipe, but they may not, go to a real steel yard and you will get the correct type (they typically will not carry any non standard steel pipe as their customers have no use for it). The ASTM-A53 pipe is also very similar to many of the HREW/ERW tubing standards. Pipe sizing is odd, as it is a carryover from 'old times'. You basically need a pipe size table to know what the hell it is. The ones I use most are 1.5" sch40 (pronounced 'schedule 40' and it refers to the thickness of the wall), which is something like 1.92" OD and .145" wall thickness, giving something around a 1.5" inside diameter (how they're actually sizing it), and 1.5" sch80 (thicker wall) and 1.25" sch40/80 and 1" sch40/80. I keep short lengths of the smaller stuff around to use for making sleeves and bushings, it isn't much use for anything else. A pipe bender and dies are for bending pipe, but most of the cheap ones need work to actually function correctly. Generally they're way too wide, and will cause flattening (which is not desirable), so the inside of the dies are best welded up and ground smooth to tighten them a bit. Also the rollers are normally a terrible design and will cause denting, guys replace them with angle iron and other bits, but that's up to you. As to roll cage construction, since somebody brought it up, it's fairly common in the offroad world for HREW/ERW tubing to be used for cage construction. Typically 1.5"x.120 or 1.75"x.120 for a midsized vehicle. 1.25" sch40 pipe is stronger than 1.5"x.120 ERW due to the large dimensions (both OD and wall thickness), and 1.5" sch40 is stronger than 1.75"x.120 ERW for the same reason. That said, SHOULD you be building the majority of a cage from any of these materials? Probably not, but it happens. I see little harm in building certain less critical pieces from them though. The main hoops and "driver safety critical areas" should always be DOM or like material, IMHO. Anyways, in summary, pipe can be used in many places structurally as long as you realize it is what it is. Hopefully somebody actually reads that, rather than having their eyes glaze over and skipping it. It took me a while to type. Thanks this is really good to know

Thanks man!

Ya he mostly wants it for looks so I think pipe will be better. I've heard these benders that I have work a lot better with pipe too

Making the bumper for a 91 ford ranger

I was given a harbor freight pipe bender. Like the orange bottle Jack kind. First of all, what's the difference between tube and pipe? Second, any techniques with these to not getting wrinkles? I've watch some videos on it but just want to know for y'all cause y'all are the best. Also I'm going to build a pre runner bumper for a friend and just wondering size/diameter of pipe/tube I should use. I know DOM is best but I've heard it's very pricey and this thing seems like pipe would be plenty strong. Thanks y'all!

Thanks I guess I better start looking

It's kinda hard for me to think about everything at once so if I got this block it would hold me over until the next thing haha

No. The link is to an ad for a Renix 4.0L block. To make that into a stoker, he'll still need to source a 258 crank, plus rods and pistons. That's kinda what I want to do. I'm gonna go through everything and slowly over a year or so build this thing. I just thought this might be a good pace to start. I want to do everything right and go all new on this bad boy. If I do do that, would something like this be a good idea to get? Or should I go pull a motor from a junkyard or something? Thanks for the help!

So would something like this work? I'm wanting to get almost all new parts but then some stuff I'll just swap over from my motor like the intake manifold and such. All I need is the block and heads and another then that I'm pretty good right? This is probably a stupid question but I just saw this ad so I thought I'd ask haha http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/5491065393.html

On a renix 4.0l, will a cold air intake be worth it? I'm not asking if it does anything, just wondering if I should spend the money. Thanks.

No matter what I'm doin it myself. I got a welder, cutting torch, tube bender, bandsaw, ect. Ill do it exactly how I want it. But that ladder rack is a good idea, it would be easy to change stuff around so I like it

So Ive always wanted a roof rack, and headache rack, so I'm just wondering what y'all are runic? I mean more of the you built it stuff, cause ill be fabbin mine up. I love the look of them when they're are done right so hopefully I can do tha, but i also will use the headache rack as protection when hauling loads of steel and stuff like it. Id also like to put in some bed lights and a light bar on the roof rack. I'm just posting thing because Id love hear some ideas and see some pics. I can't find much on google images. Thanks also, ill build it so the roof rack will not be connected to the cab, it will be supported off of the headache rack, but I'll put the roof rack as low as possible because i hate seeing a gap in between the roof and the rack

If you ever come down to Bellingham message me. I'd love to talk jeeps!

Cool Comanche. What are your plans

Had a friend take some pics of me and the jeep. I think they turned out real well. And plans for he jeep is to stroke it this summer! Hopefully haha

I'm pretty sure mine came with spacers or something like that to close the gap because once they were in it was really hard to get the control arm in

Thanks that was exactly what I wanted

Ah, that was it, thanks!

The activation email isn't sending do it's hard to ask any questions because I can't get into my account but I'll keep trying