Marine1Texas

Jeep Comanche (MJ) (1986-1990) w/ Dana 44 Rear Axle w/ 10" drums. 10" x 2-1/2" I think the 35 Rear Axle is 10" x 1-3/4" however on the 35 I herd some people have 10" x 2-1/2"

you all don't know what you talking about dasbulliwagen ! No reasoning with a know it all You do not need to remove the whole dash. if your just getting to the HVAC box you can do it all from the floor. If you want to remove the plastic piece that go's from one side to the other that contains the ashtray you can, but not have too. The Box does not come out easy just does not fall out with taking screws out, need to do a little side way motion tug. If you want to remove the whole dash go do it, no skin off my back, however I have done this before and I post the picture below to show you my results. I have noticed time and again this comancheclub you have users who insult over and over. Put the pictures up to and show it This is a under dash unit. to put in, requires full removable of HVAC box. removing the box only, no ducting or heater core. Above pictures with screw and bolts removed. If one wants to pull the plastic strip that go's the length with ashtray that would be all needed. Why would one pull the top of dash, there are no bolds there it is just ducting for the vents. if you pulling and swapping the HVAC box out no need to pull your ducting. When your putting in the new control unit with a/c then you just pull the plastic bezel go's over the instrument cluster. It took my son and I 5 hours to complete everything. that included installing new wiring and all new a/c parts. I know when done 1st time it can take a bit, and if your unsure. look at all posts, look at the pictures, get your book, look at it, and then plan your attack on your job.

Here are some pictures of the removal screws and box Hope those pic's help out a bit. If you want you can always remove the piece of plastic that runs at the bottom of dash. runs from one side to other with ash tray. I removed it, however found out later I did not have too

HVAC box needs no dash removed. you should be able to get to in from the floor. converting to 134 is just the connection and seals. Make sure to clean up the old compressor good and put the 134a oil in before filling it will 134a. most parts should be able to reuse. just make sure once you get everything together to suck all the air and any moister out. You can keep heater core if it is still good. your need a new dryer. If you willing to spend the money, new heater core and evaporator is good because you will not have to go back in the box for many years to replace something with possible leak. I wish I could give you a write up. I did install my a/c for not a/c truck. I used the under dash a/c unit with heater.

I live in North East Texas and it rains about 40 inches of rain a year. some more some less. not as much as Alabama I guess.

If I had that problem I would agree. I never had that problem and my back gasket on hood is in very good shape for being 27 years old. I Never had water come in the cab if I did I would not have it done. It work on my truck with out any problems. however can not speak for everyone

yes I do, however not once ever had water go in the engine bay from that area with any degree. So your saying that a few sprinkles of water is going to hurt something? When your off road thru mud and water that push's heavy mounts of water in. Or are you thinking water going to get in intake? I am not sure why you think lots of water going to get in. I like that idea. I have only the one electric fan and mechanical fan. I was thinking about a time to go on it after days when it is 110 here in Texas

To much air flow going in? You need air flow lol With a exhaust area the fans that are pulling air have only to push hot air down. With hot air that wants to rise a back vent is always most logical, with less stress on fans. you ever try to push air or pull air in to a enclosed area, the fan loads because of pressure. My 87 has been like this since 1989, never once run over 205 degrees even sitting in hot Texas sun for hours idling in 27 years. This is the old school way of cooling. Seems to work great for me. Also keep in mind that money money money for mods, this mod only cost about 5 dollars.

A few spots that I can think have problems I think are in or near fuse box, Relays under hood near battery, and the column where ignition wires are locked. I forgot starter relay is another one. There are only a few places that have live power when the key is turned off. so your looking for wiring too those points and those connection points. I would put full battery on it then have a drain check. get a charger that will detect how much amps is needed for full battery then shut off. Now with a already full battery it will stop with no drain or show a extra charge because of short or usage. First make sure it is not a bad battery. Then you can go from main positive cable and work its ways back. move the cables around and your tracing for a cut in a wire or what not. You may pull up some where and charging stops. then you narrow it down.

What we did is raise the back of the hood up 1 inch to allow forward movement of air to push air out behind the hood. So where the hinges attach to hood we added 1 inch washers and push hood up. It push's the air up and out over front of wind shield hood closes like normal and easy way to let extra heat out

Both trucks have coils in the front

permatex I good stuff. I know a guy who used JB cold weld and after it set and hard for a day, he ground it down flat. nothing ever coming out of there lol

I still don't see much of a problem tho if you do a d44. I say stay with what you have the D30 and just reinforce it. it is not that expensive or hard to reinforce it. My harvester we bumped up all support on the rear axle and front too. We welded 1/2 inch steel L arms along the upper axle on all 4 sides. That way we could load up to 2 tons on the back of it with out any issues. Some times we have to move 2 ton machines from the back shop to the front shop. it works great and have not broke a axle yet in 30 years.

my 1987 metric ton package has different setup then my 1990 regular 1/2 ton. both are 4x4 both have leaf springs. I measure metric ton springs at 77 mm wide not tall. The 1/2 ton leaf is measured at 65 mm. Now I know my metric ton 1987 has never been moded and came right from dealer

unless your thinking of weight and some hard banks 30 would be just fine. I know you can do some custom brackets for cheap on the 44. Comanche 44 has different springs and the with is wider too. I have the metric ton and the leaf springs are wider even then my Comanche with regular 1/2 ton springs. If you weld them on there make sure you do a good job, seen people weld them and crack after 10 or 15 trips crawing up rocks.

watch those coils, I had one years ago start and work fine, then just die. 1 minute later work fine for 3 or 4 miles. puzzled the hell out of me. because it did that for months. Till I though let me change it out and see. Was not a jeep but same concept .

agreed pervious owner did not put it in right. In over 30 years of driving never had a freeze plug burst. I have had hoses and tanks burst never a freeze plug. the pressure that would require to remove a freeze plug at 200 plus degrees is way more then 40 PSI. freeze plugs are as stated, cold makes them shrink, heat makes them expand. I once had a spark plug shoot out because engine got warmer then plug and it was -38 outside.

Here is a cool master I installed on a 87 Comanche. we used another one that has heat and cool however it is underdash far enough can't see it.

If crank case vent was clogged it would not cause that. it would just give oil in your air box. Did you clean the connection on the ICM? I think those are about 80 bucks. Coil for it are very cheap seen less then 20 buck on rock auto. When I redone my engine I replaced all the ICM, coil and distributor. I know you can get everything for less then 200 dollars. RockAuto is a great spot to get parts. I seen ECU's for cheap less then 100 for some remanufactured. I seen them as cheap as 40 dollars used. It's always possible that's it. The ECU is the only thing I have not ever replaced. I know my ECU has a problem, however not bad enough to replace it. I Switch ECU between my 4.0's and it idled perfect. It makes the idle move up and down 150 rpms. however it does not die or mess with the way it runs.

if you drive with a intake nipple open you going to have even more problems. Have you pulled that fuse box out and cleaned everything up too? My truck I had to do it twice in the life of the truck. Seems my turn signal fuse every 4 or 5 years gets loose and have to wiggle around. then I re do solder on back.

I find if vacuum line fall off then they are worn out. All the vacuum line I have on my truck have to be twisted pretty good to pull off. Every 2 or 3 years I replace all vacuum line with new ones. It is a cheap less then 10 dollar maintenance.

I have a AC Delco in my truck. been in there since 2002 and never one problem. does great when I am pulling 12,000 pounds of hay on my trailer across the farm in the mud.

have you did the indexing? Could be a coil putting out low voltage. Did you do the CPS advance?

you will have to get a HEI distributor. then you can adjust timing and has vacuum advance. one like this will work. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amc-Jeep-Amc-6-Cyl-232-258-4-0-4-2-65K-HEI-Electronic-Distributor/171723803893?_trksid=p2054897.c100204.m3164&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140407115239%26meid%3Dedecd92acfe8405d8c71c57a9cd240bc%26pid%3D100204%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D20%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D200804032196 I have used one before in my jeep 4.0 it work

I would start by checking the wiring and plugs and cap. Then make sure you do all the ground refreshing for it. you could of move something enough to get a bad ground. check out cruisers tips. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/