JeepsOLot

Well, I swapped them yesterday, and I have a working speedo! The ends are different at the speedo end, but, I was able to make it work. This will be ok until I get the correct cable. Thanks, everyone! Jerry

Advance sells the Bosch pump, so, that's why I'm getting that. Jerry

Well, my fears make sense, the pump is having issues. On my way to work this morning, I could hear the pump change pitch every now and then, and, every time it changed, the lights would dim slightly for a sec or two. The pump is just bad. Not sure what kind of warranty Advance has on these pumps, but, I'm hoping to take it back, exchange it for the Bosch pump, and just pay the difference. I'm sure the combination of the bad, crappy fuel and it being an Airtex pump is what did it in. Thanks, everyone! Jerry

I haven't got the '88 off yet, but, just from feel, the gauge end feels different then the one out of the '86. I pulled the '86 cable already. Found out what happened, apparently, when I pulled the tranny and put it back in, I routed the cable too close to the exhaust manifold, melting it. Oh, well, might be this weekend before I can get to it. Thanks, everyone! Jerry

Thanks, guys! MJ Junkie, I got the info you just posted in searching, may have even been posted by you. One question, my '86 (2.8, auto 2WD, idiot light cluster) still has the speedo cable. Since we're yanking out the cluster and dash in the '86 anyway, can I use that cable in the '88 Eliminator? Jerry

This is on an '88 Eliminator, 4.0, BA10/5 2WD, full gauge cluster (no idiot lights). Speedo just quit while driving. What is the most trouble prone thing on the speedometer, the gauge itself, the gear at the speedo, the cable, or the gear in the tranny? Wanted to know what would be the most likely cause, so I can start there. Thanks! Jerry

I believe so, I got it at Advance Auto. Jerry

After driving the Eliminator, I noticed that the pump is really loud when the engine is idling. When the engine is revved up or accelerating, it quiets down. This is a new pump I installed last month after I got the truck. I do have the power going through the resistor on the driver side fender. Thanks for any help, it's really annoying sitting at a stop light!! Jerry

I replaced both cables. I replaced the alternator as well. When I started the truck, the battery was at 11.8 volts. as it ran, the voltage dropped to 9.4 before it leveled out. After the alternator replacement, before starting, battery was at 12.8 (charged it), with engine running, it was at 14.4/14.5. Charging now!!! Jerry

Well, the Eliminator did it's first job for me on Friday, took a few things to storage. Image Not Found Runs ok, a little sluggish, but, drives fine. After the Seafoam in the crankcase works a little bit, I'll change the oil, as well as all of the fluids. Still need to replace some vacuum lines, replace both front tires, and swap over the D44 from the '86. Also found out that the D44 has 4.10's and LSD, nice!! This BA10/5 is geared higher then the AX15, so, the lower gears will help. Jerry

Ok, got it straight. When the arching of the battery cables happened, it took out the voltage regulator in the alternator. It wasn't putting out at all. When I started the Jeep, the battery was at 11.3 volts. As the engine ran, it slowly dropped to 9.4 volts and leveled out. The fusible link between the alternator lead and the main harness was good. I took out the alternator, and had it tested, it didn't even get passed the regulator test before it failed. Replaced the alternator, and, at startup, the battery was 12.8, with engine running, it was 14.3/14.4. Problem solved! Now, on to the vacuum lines that need to be replaced. Jerry

Checked the fusable link, it was fine. Took out the alternator, and had it tested, the internal regular and the bearings were shot got a new one, and will be installing it tomorrow. Jerry

LOL, nice!! Jerry

Not yet, just brain storming until I get home. Think it's the alternator, as it seems the battery was working until it was discharged. With the engine running, everything should have been bright if the alternator was working. Jerry

This is from mu build thread, thought I would post it here for more exposure. Got the cables replaced. Drove it around last night. Went to Advance Auto to look at some things, got into the Jeep, and it almost didn't want to start. Noticed the headlights getting dimmer, and when I put the brakes on, the dash lights would dim. Got back to the house, shut it off, and it wouldn't start (not enough juice). My question is, with the arching that went on before I changed the wires, what would have normally gone first, the alternator or the battery? In the past when the engine was running, it would run 30-40 mins, and immediately restart no problem. That makes me believe everything was fine before the arching. I'm going to first take the battery out and have it tested, and then the alternator if the battery tests good. Jerry

Got the cables replaced. Drove it around last night. Went to Advance Auto to look at some things, got into the Jeep, and it almost didn't want to start. Noticed the headlights getting dimmer, and when I put the brakes on, the dash lights would dim. Got back to the house, shut it off, and it wouldn't start (not enough juice). My question is, with the arching that went on before I changed the wires, what would have normally gone first, the alternator or the battery? In the past when the engine was running, it would run 30-40 mins, and immediately restart no problem. That makes me believe everything was fine before the arching. I'm going to first take the battery out and have it tested, and then the alternator if the battery tests good. Jerry

Yikes!!! Jerry

Well, should have kept my mouth shut. When I was test driving, a few times, it bucked and lost power. I just thought it was caused by more crap letting loose into the gas from the Seafoam treatment. Well, I was disconnenting the battery cables to take the battery out to look at something, and I heard a pop and sizzle, and when the first terminal came off, I had a nice spark at the battery post. Thinking, ok, something's not right with these cables, I took both cables out. This is what I found: Image Not Found This was near the starter, where the negative cable splits off and goes to the block while the positive cable goes to the starter. Apparently, the insulation was so brittle, that it broke off where the two wires were together, shorting everything out intermittently. Yikes, the Eliminator could have gone up in a blaze of glory!!! That scared me!! Getting another set of cables this afternoon. Jerry

Yep, 100% of my wallet is gone, LOL! What I meant was, unless I find something else wrong or something else goes wrong, I will have fixed all that I can see that are problems. Jerry

Got her driving and stopping. Image Not Found Still needs tires, stocks, and some electrical work to be 100%. Jerry

You really don't want the fluid to keep running onto the fuse box, brake fluid and plastic generally don't mix. I would change the master or rebuild it. Jerry

Awesome, thanks!! Jerry

Yesterday was a success! Outlaw Star and I got the Eliminator moving under it's own power! The clutch system needed to be bled completely because of the crap that was used in the assembly of the slave. Now, onto making it able to stop. We took out the master brake cylinder, and it was fine. Started blowing out the lines and found a bunch of crap was blocking the lines. The driver side front soft line was completely blocked solid! Just going to replace it today, bleed the system, and she should be 100%! Jerry

Well, the reason the 4.0 was running rough was Cyls. 2 and 4 were not firing. Replacing the spark plugs got all 6 firing, and a smoother running engine. Still want to replace the wires and injectors. Outlaw Star swapped out a distributor that he had with mine in troubleshooting it the other weekend, and the cap and rotor looked fairly new, so, I'm not going to mess with that. Waiting on Outlaw Star now to help my bleed the clutch and figure out what went wrong with my friend's '86 Comanche. Jerry

I know this because I went through this same problem, but for a different reason (bad gas and varnish/crap everywhere). Do you remember if you tightened both hose clamps that clamp on that little hose going from the pump itself and the pump/sender cage? That bit me in the butt last week, tightened those, and it runs as well as it can until I replace the injectors. Almost sounds like the new regulator is bad. Doesn't the vacuum go down as the engine warms up? If it does, that might account for the loss in pressure as it warms up, the regulator lets more fuel bypass the injectors then it should. Jerry