88mjblue

a good tip from cruiser: do a vacuum gauge reading, you can easily see if you have a burnt valve or not, or any other problems.

I have this shifter movement as well, I also thought it could have been the mount... maybe it is this a sign of transmission wear? My ax15 has a bit of this too...

It's called an external torx.

One more thing, anybody know anything about this thing below? It was on the original, but not on the new one. I couldn't figure out if I could remove it and transfer to the new mount. It looks like it stops the transmission from bottoming out and breaking the mount or something:

Crown automotive is the only company that makes it (that I know of) and it's a reproduction, there are no peuogot OEM mounts out there that I could find. I ordered the Crown #83505567 that fiatslug87 mentioned, tried installing it, but the bolts were just a hair off and wouldn't line up. After inspecting it, and comparing to original, I found it to be a manufacturing defect so I sent it back. Waiting on the new one, and I need it, mine's original and very soft and mushy from oil contamination of the rubber. Anybody else have success with this mount? I know everyone will tell you to just get the ax-15 and to stop putting any money into the 10/5, but for myself, I have no problems so far and replacing a mount is still easier than sourcing a good ax-15 and all the parts and work that go along with a tranny swap. But once it dies, then yes, get rid of that thing.

Throttle body is very clean, air filter is recently new. IAC has been replaced (no change), but I will check its electrical connector because I don't think I have checked that yet. But it seems to be working (just at a lower level) since it is able to make adjustments for vacuum leaks when I plug and unplug a vacuum line. What will disconnecting the throttle body airbox inlet prove?

Anybody have any insight on this idle issue? If I'm reading the vacuum gauge test correctly, it tells me I have an issue with ignition, so I'm going to re-examine the plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Do distributor or ignition coil fall into this? And, could this possible ignition problem be causing my low idle? I did another test with vacuum lines: I pulled out the rear (closer to firewall) CCV tube and idle goes up, then adjusts back to low idle. I plug it back in, idle drops down very low, almost stalls, but I believe it's the IAC that then steps in to correct this and brings the idle back up (to the low idle)

Felpro rubber gaskets are always the way to go, and they come with the metal inserts built in.

Also did vacuum gauge test: ~12-14 in. Hg fluctuating (I'm at 5,500 feet elevation by the way) Take a look: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X94xAatEpWo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PmZNMzPtFsw

Sold for $12,700

Back with another update: - Sprayed down the MAP sensor tube to throttle body with carb cleaner and nothing happened. Was something supposed to happen? - I got a fuel pressure gauge, hooked it up to the Schrader valve test port, and got the usual numbers of 39 psi with fuel pressure regulator disconnected, and 31 psi with fuel pressure regulator connected.

Wow, that dealership must have snatched it up, made a few repairs to make it absolutely perfect, and now they're going to make a killing on that thing! (lucky bastards)

I don't think metric ton leafs makes you a 3/4 ton truck... but I like the badges, what did you paint with?

This is what I have imagined my backyard turning into in the future if this jeep addiction doesn't stop... Two years ago I drove a leased vw jetta. Now I own an xj, tj, mj, and a square-body chevy, and never looking back to dealerships or repair shops!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Cherokee-100-LOADED-TIME-CAPSULE-WAGONEER-/231649500160?forcerrptr=true&hash=item35ef62dc00&item=231649500160 Wonder how much this will go for...

OK, thanks for the direction. I was reading into this and feel it's about darn time I got one of those gauges... so I will order one and do that test when I get the gauge. I'll try the MAP sensor test, do I spray down the actual sensor itself up by the firewall? Or just the vacuum line? When I get to the 2-port rubber stopper at the throttle body, do I spray that down too?

What I did this weekend: - 746 injectors - intake/exhaust gasket - new exhaust manifold - New CTS and pigtail - new EGR - motor mounts Still idles the same, no change whatsoever... Don't know what to do now.

So no problems with rattling or knocking?

Yes, thanks Stroker, it's exactly like post above, must be stock, items #14, #15, and #23 screw was there as well clamping it down. 18mm bellhousing bolt, and fit right up against the flywheel cover. So I guess it must be stock. I have the BA 10/5 and the transmission mount that has the "built-in" exhaust hanger rubber isolator thing (that supports the downpipe and cat connection) But I'm not sure how Ax15's/AW4's mount up and provide the hanger after the manifold, so maybe having that extra hanger to the bell housing before the transmission crossmember is necessary??

Kind of like the one in my first picture? (it's slid up from the welded hanger, and clamped over)

How difficult is it to remove the cover from the bench seat? Actually, what I'm more concerned about is putting it back on after washing... Are there special hooks/tools needed?

Replacing manifold + dowpipe (and transmission + motor mounts) I have an exhaust hanger welded on to the downpipe which bolts to one of the belhousing cover bolts. I this stock? (looks like an afterthought weld job) Is it necessary? Anybody else have any hangers along the downpipe? Pictures:

What about a few ounces of ATF as a flush? Good detergents in there. Anybody ever do this?

Working on a beater comanche that has holes in the exhaust. Unfortunately I need to pass emissions here, and I would think having a sound exhaust system would help my chances of passing the first time. Does anybody have any recommendations for a repair product (paste, wrap, putty, beer can, etc.) that will hold me over for one day so I can get it to pass emissions? Full exhaust job will follow, but not in the immediate future, just want to pass emissions first. Anybody use that paste or wrap stuff to fix their exhaust system? I don't need a long term fix. Am I correct to think that it will help my chances of passing emissions by patching up those holes? There are some on the downpipe, and two small ones after the muffler and on the tailpipe.

People from colorado, what are the best junkyards in our state for Jeep and/or gm truck parts?