88mjblue

Put fuses in, ran power from renix relay center/power distribution center, everything running fine, relays clicking nicely, overall good upgrade, even with the old sealed-beam headlights.

Ok, thanks for info, especially the relay background info from daking. One more question on my headlight harness install: Is it okay to get power from the bolt in the "relay center" instead of going directly to the battery? Like this:

Is it normal for relays to make a click sound when turned on/off? I just installed the headlight harness upgrade, and while the lights work fine and are noticeably brighter, I hear a click when I turn both the low beams and high beams (separate relay for each) on. This is done why engine is off (I don't think I would be able to hear them with engine on) Is this just how relays work, or should I be worried about something?

My newer model hose is pretty soft when squeezing, so that's why I was initially concerned. You mentioned high RPM - I don't really rev it that high ever (rarely above 4k) so that may be why I haven't experienced a collapsing hose. When the hose does collapse, what happens? I see how this would restrict coolant flow, but does it go back to normal after a sec?

What if you don't put the spring in, is it really that bad? I just replaced my lower radiator hose, found that the old hose did not have a spring, and I decided to install the new hose without a spring. It was fine before, and works fine now (no collapsing or overheating) so is the spring really necessary?

In regards to your courtesy lights, the connections rust very easily on these things since they are made of copper. Carefully take the lights out (try not to crack the plastic retaining clips) and take a small piece of sandpaper and sand the metal as well as the part that rotates. I had this problem and at first I thought it was the bulb, so I bought new bulbs, but they still didn't work. After some fine sanding, the lights worked and it turned out the old bulbs were still good! That GM V6 2.8L you have is not the best engine out there and not known for its reliability. But I do know someone who put over 200,000 mi on theirs because they took care of it (they also happened to work on the GM plant that built these engines...) For your gear ratio, I would think you'd have 3.55 gears, but I'm not 100% on that. If it's not gone/destroyed by now, you can check on your differential cover on the left side there will be a strip of metal held down by two diff cover bolts, it will say the gear ratio on it.

Our jeeps have a hydraulic clutch system (no cable)

I wouldn't sell my mj just over a small vacuum leak.

Thanks for this. I remember reading your post about these somewhere and couldn't find it again or who posted it. I will be getting these Moog bushings for my sway bar. I'm considering getting the sway bar end link kit as well, but was thinking I might as well spend the extra money and get some quick disconnects instead if I'm going to be replacing them. Anybody have any positive experiences with a good quick disconnect?

I need to replace my front sway bar bushings and was wondering what you guys went with when doing yours. I know there are rubber, polyurethane, and I also saw these greaseable bushings with hold-down brackets that have zerk fittings so you can grease them periodically.

Do the injectors from Programbo come with o-rings and everything else I would need for a complete swap?

More updates please.

Bump for more camper pictures.

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Definitely go for it, and don't give up! I thought I was never going to find that leak and would have to take my whole dash apart as someone had mentioned. But I went back a third and fourth time to really search and I felt along the whole vacuum line from firewall to canister with my fingers around all sides and finally found that tiny hole, plugged it up and boom! I've got warm toasty heat coming out of the vents, floor thingy, and anywhere I want it.

I've seen that before in a Junkyard and thought that was awesome! Would that work if I swapped out my current clock? Same connector? How on earth does it have the technology to check all those systems/fluid levels? I've never seen a sensor in the rear diff for example, or measuring the break pads for that matter! Or is it just a timer and every 3,000 miles tells you to change the oil for example and the light comes on.

Interesting.. user on that link says he bought a non-cruise 4x4 for his 88 and it measures 76"... I double checked that mopar part number (04897729AA) and it confirmed the length of 76-3/4" and that is was for 4x4 non cruise (http://www.mopardealerparts.com/p/Jeep_1988_COMANCHE/CABLE--Speedometer-25L-FOUR-Cylinder--Diesel--4-Cyl-Eng--40L-SIX-Cylinder-Engine--6-Cyl-Eng--Four-Wheel-Drive--Two-Wheel-Drive-1986-With-Gas-Engine--W/42214454/04897729AA.html) Unfortunately that OEM part from mopar is no longer available. ​The advance auto parts cable is the ATP Y-914 ($21.99 + $10 shipping) http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/atp-speedometer-cable-y-914/19610176-P#fragment-2 Also on Amazon ($19.97 + free shipping): http://www.amazon.com/ATP-Automotive-Y-914-Speedometer-Cable/dp/B004QFRAO4/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER Length is 94" (maybe they don't count the connectors) Both advance and amazon say this won't fit my vehicle, but I'm going to go ahead and buy this ATP Y-914, it seems like the right one. Amazon and advance have been wrong about fitment quite a few times before in the past.

I need to replace my speedometer cable and after reading a few threads, I came up with these specs needed for my 88 4x4 w/o cruise control: - 96" in length (for 4x4) - one-piece from transfer case to speedometer back (cruise control models have two pieces) - metal connection for non cruise control (plastic clip for cruise control models) - two styles of mechanical speedometer cables (86-87, and 88-91) [in 92 cables went electric?] - automatic and manual transmissions take the same cable (depending on cruise or not) Can anybody confirm these stats, and please tell me where you bought your new one? (Somebody who bought one recently.) I read that advance auto parts used to sell this part, but I couldn't find it on their website, now they give me this cable when I put in my information: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/atp-speedometer-cable-y-802/5612799-P?searchTerm=speedometer+cable However, this one lists the length as 38"... Somebody on comanche club forum posted this amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/ATP-Y-924-Speedometer-Cable/dp/B005UKZCZI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MHHH3PW8FJGMMH5RF34 But this looks like it's for cruise control models. Can somebody help me out and post up a link to the right cable I need to get? Thanks!

Well, you were right, Bobolink. I traced the whole line again, and found a small hole in the exact spot you described! It was worn down from rubbing against the crimped hose connection that goes to the pressure bottle. I taped it up with some duct tape to see if that would solve the issue (and that there were no other small holes anywhere else) and it worked! I know that is not the best way, how do you fix holes? Cut and splice together with something? Glue? What have you guys done in the past to repair a vacuum line without taking the whole thing out and putting in a replacement?

Yep colors are a coincidence. These colored cables are actually electrical, not vacuum lines that connect to the inside controls. I checked back there behind the dash faceplate and everything was connected. This image explains it, for those who are wondering: And here is my own image from back there: I didn't take the whole dash out, but just checked to see if it was plugged in (and it was) Now I will try the carburator cleaner method, and hopefully, as Bobolink has suggested, it will turn up somewhere...

Bobolink, I think you may be right. I just did what you describe, I began to tear my dash apart and everything seems to be connected back there. I will go through with the carburetor cleaner to find the leak which could have eluded me under the hood. Just to confirm, the black line we are talking about is the smaller black line that goes from through the firewall (exits next to the heater control valve line) and then parallel with the main vacuum line that goes to the canister in the passenger front bumper?

So none of these vacuum lines are related to the HVAC system??? I thought I saw the same colors coming out of the the selector...

Is there another headlamp supplemental harness upgrade that someone makes? I ask because amazon is sold out of the Putco harness, and some people have said the Putco is poor quality. Yet, others say it is fine and people just have grounding and mounting issues...

What is plenum?

Renix 4.0, no AC, no cruise control. My HVAC system only blows out of the windshield defrost vent. After researching and finding that this is a common issue caused by a vacuum leak, I traced my vacuum lines to find the leak. I followed the main vacuum line that comes out of the intake manifold and goes to the vacuum canister in the passenger front bumper. The line was intact and attached to the bulb in the bumper. Then I went to the back of the controller in the cab behind the dash faceplate and checked that the lines were plugged in. (they were) Tracing those 4 lines from the dash, I now find this blue vacuum line (picture below). It is not plugged in to anything! I think this is the problem, but I don't see any lines where it can be re-attached... Can anybody confirm that this blue line is for the HVAC vent selector, and can anybody confirm what the other colors are? I think the green and yellow lines are the vacuum lines to engage the front axle.