88mjblue

The cheap Korean mounts that are made for many part stores and just rebranded are garbage in terms of fit. I did get them on with a bit of a struggle on an XJ, and they have worked fine, and for the price were worth it. But for the MJ I decided to splurge for the Brown Dog mounts. I went with their rubber mounts (recommended for unibodies) and they are great! Installation was very easy because they're a well-made USA part with exact tolerances - they slid right in no problem! With the other mounts (and I even returned the first pair to try again) I had to do a lot of shifting and forcing (and cursing) to get the thru-bolt in. Brown Dogs are quality, but expensive. $100 vs $20 for the pair.

Thanks guys, it's got stock cast iron manifolds, so it sounds like I'll be fine. Going to do the manifold gaskets too. I'll check out that flex joint, maybe I'll have the shop do something like that for me when I have them weld in the bung hole for an O2 sensor.

I've got an SJ I'm installing a completely new exhaust system from manifolds back (y-pipe + cat + muffler + tailpipe). There are two stock hangers to support the exhaust in the stock position located along the tailpipe (after the axle). Should I be concerned that there's too much weight of the exhaust system hanging from the exhaust manifolds? Should I add an extra hanger somewhere?

I was in Birmingham for Snowpocalypse 2014! I remember it well, but saw a bit more snow in colorado this year:

I see this is your first post, and that you have an 89. Here's some required reading for you: cruiser54.com Tip #25 is for the oil issue you're talking about. Lots of other good stuff there. Also read up on Renix (87-90) vs HO (high output) (91-92) Welcome!

I was in Moab this weekend and was checking out a YJ (all stock) and saw the same thing, so when I got home I checked mine and it had the same thing going on. I think I will let it stay for now, but when I replace the leafs one day, I will go with all new hardware. And also probably go with a 1-2" lift. Also, is there an alternative for mounting the shock plate? Maybe different style? I feel like it hangs too low...

I assume it was torqued like that from the factory because I have a fairly detailed vehicle history from the previous owner from 1987 till when I purchased it and have nothing relating to leaf springs. Here are some more pictures, maybe it may clarify. From the pictures Don posted, I believe they are correct for 88 and looks like they have that reinforcement plate. As for the centering bolt, I'm not sure - by not centered do you mean front/back? Because maybe the angle of the photo makes it look like that. More of the passenger side: The Driver's side now:

Thanks for the help guys! I had a "great" day today pulling my dash and hvac box just to find out my heater core was absolutely fine... It turned out to be the hose clamp the whole time - it wasn't making a good seal causing a leak at the intel tube which trickled down into the cab. (And I went the whole winter last year without heat)

Thanks! That's exactly what I wanted to hear, just needed that confirmation before I snapped the thing in two if I missed a screw or something. You're right, those clips are the exact same as the cluster/dash bezel, and just need a little persuasion:

Trying to remove dash to change heater core, but can't seem to remove the trim piece that covers the defrost vent. I've removed 5 screws (3 along top, and 2 on the sides behind glovebox, but there's still something holding it in right behind where the clock is. If I understand correctly, I need to remove this trim piece first, which will give me access to the bolts that hold the upper part of the dash, and then the 2 15mm are loosened and it should come off, right?

Wait, are you saying is this a factory brush guard? Or just the bumper and tow hooks are factory? I didn't know they made a brush guard from the factory...

Yep, got my set from Jessers Classic Keys on ebay. RA5 for ignition, RA3 for door. They look just like flatslugs above, and that's period correct: jeep w/ amc logo on one side and american motors and logo on the other side. I have an 88 xj with both sets of factory original keys and they are the same.

Sorry, bad joke, I thought it would be funny.

Hey guys, I did some research and found out that the 1986-1992 Jeep Comanche came with a manual transmission!

The new "cherokee" comes with a manual transmission if you are not in the US and get with a diesel.

I saw a video of somebody jump starting a vehicle by jacking up the rear and then using a rope or strap to spin the wheel and then pop the clutch.

Ok thanks guys, that makes sense, I will try 2nd gear.

If I can't get vehicle to move fast enough to jump start in first gear, would going into low range help it start easier? What about jump starting in reverse? I ask because I have a small "runway" to attempt this, and I'll only get one shot at it...

That is a good deal. I bought one a few months ago and paid $66 from amazon.

Now you tell me... just kidding, but I wish I'd known this sooner. On another Jeep running 134a, I used some leak detector that was part of a DIY recharge kit, and now it doesn't blow as cold...

What are important steps to take when reviving and old ac system that hasn't worked in a while? (Or one that you don't know the history of) I was thinking something like this: 1) Make sure compressor is working properly. (I would like confirmation on the best way to test this) Be sure clutch is engaging the compressor. It could just be low pressure that prevents compressor from engaging, and a charge will solve this. Or maybe the clutch is not engaging for some other reason, like a poor electrical connection. However, if the compressor is shot, then it would be a waste of refrigerant to try and fill a system that needs a new compressor (since the system will need to be discharged and evacuated). 2) Charge a little and see if it will hold pressure - use some UV leak detector and try to find any leaks in the system (condenser, pressure lines, and especially o-rings at line connections) 3) If no leaks and compressor is working correctly, then charge to required amount.

Just breaking in! The donor cluster was over 500,000km before i rolled it back Ahhhh, I didn't see it was in kilometers. Interesting that the metric cluster doesn't have the mph equivalent like the US ones have both mph and kph.

Nice! That looks good, and on a low-mileage vehicle I see!

I saved this one from the crusher, if I find another one I'll let you know!