CGCWO

I could use a SWB tans skid.

Yes and I ran general grabber AT 30 x 9.50 x 15s on Grand Cherokee Canyon wheels. Not sure about the shock fitment. It was a 2.5 4speed manual.

After going back through the old build thread, I see I used the JK coils 1.5inch spacers and Rustys shocks and a add-a-leaf in the rear.

I used a set of JK 2dr front coils on a 89MJ 2wd about 5 years ago gained about 2.5in in the front. Trying to find the build thread.

Scored this H&H shell for Little Blue today. Not Comanche specific, but measurements are 61” x 74.5” should be a good fit and I really like the style. Came off a late 90s SWB Mazda B series truck.

They were pretty clean. Just met the gentleman so I didn’t pry to deep. Good news he invited me to visit his home in Alabama where the rest reside. Another plus is he claims to have an original SWB topper that is in very good shape and he is willing to part with it, needless to say I’ll be visiting soon. Gentleman is a collector/seller of military surplus items and a Vietnam Veteran.

Stumbled across these today about 10 mins from home. Turns out this guy supposedly had 9 and lives within a hour of me near the highschool I went to a hindered years ago. Didn’t get vins, but referred him to the site. He said these are his work trucks and not the best of the bunch. Both are plated in Alabama and drivers.

So P1 is classic black, guess my initial suspicions of it being a total repaint are correct. Still think the current color is AJ/medium blue metallic.

P1 should be it then. Also better pic of plate.

see above! Forgot to quote you.

Funny you should ask. I have been trying to decide on paint color. I am not a huge fan of this shade of blue/green. This is from the under hood tag. If I am not mistaken paint code is 6YT. It’s very close to the medium blue metallic. Finally found its new color today in the spray bomb section at Lowe’s (krylon matte ink pen blue). Just a little test on the header panel (unprepped). Reminds me of some of the old Levi Jeep interior fabrics.

While waiting on the new motor and other parts to arrive I finally got the RedRock 2dr JK side steps mounted and installed. Welded in some 2”x6” flat stock to 4 locations on the pinch seam and fabricated braces out of 1”x1” box steal to attach to the frame. Drilled into the step inner bar to attach to the 2x6 tabs that are now welded to the pinch seam. Very solid and hold me jumping up and down. All the attachment points between the truck and side steps are bolted for easy removal if needed.

So finally did the compression test, not good. All 6 cylinders have extremely low compression (50-60psi). So I and starting the process to swap in a remanufactured long block and also have the AW4 rebuilt during the swap. Found a reputable local mechanic that is going to do the work for a reasonable amount. Fingers crossed I’ll have a daily driver in a few weeks depending on parts lead times.

See above post.

Tested the gauge using a known good motor (18hp Husky riding mower) Same procedures and got good readings (right at spec numbers 95psi cold). So gauge is good!

Battery fully charged, all plugs out, throttle in full open position. Yeah I followed the directions also consulted with a mechanic.

Questioned my testing results. Went back and ran test again, similar results with 45psi being the average across all cylinders. High of 58psi and low of 38psi. I miss read the numbering for the previous post. Either way I got a problem and need to address it. Also did a wet test and the numbers didn’t change more than 5-10psi for each cylinder. From what I can find I’ve either/or a combo of all the following: valve problems (but not ticking), head gasket problems, rings and/or possible head crack.

Timing is all good.

Okay got the compression test and fuel pressure test done today. Let’s start with the good news, fuel pressure is all good right at 32psi at idle vacuum line connected/just about 40psi v-line disconnected. Now the bad and what was suspected. Highest compression came from #1 cylinder (52psi) yep that’s right 52psi, low was #4 at 31psi. This explains a lot of things (smoking when warmed up, no power under throttle, inability to climb a ant hill, etc....) Had a mechanic buddy watch how I did the test via FaceTime to make sure I was doing it correctly. I am really amazed the thing is running and able to move its own weight.

Your likely leak culprit it the large gasket/o-ring in the control valve on top of the filter. Sand in a good running system should last a couple of years as long as you back flush once a month during swimming season. Get on a schedule to do your water testing and be religious on on keeping your water balanced. Our previous house had a similar system, best thing I ever did was convert it to saltwater system. Saved a ton of money on chemicals each year.

Got my second last Thursday. Arm was sore starting that afternoon, then yesterday had body aches. All good today!

I was initially thinking that also, but I though I would see some discoloration (milky-ness) in the oil. Oil is clean. And yes I need to do a comp test. Didn’t get to it today, was a bit under the weather after having my second shot to activate the new government tracking device.

Yes there is some oil getting on the exhaust, it’s from the rear main seal leak and maybe some from the trans pan gasket.

White to light grey. Heavy oil smell. Thought it was a open injector at first since I had a open injector #5 code from the REMII. Found the problem there (injector ground was not good) pulled the wiring harness apart (again) and re soldered the connections. Also double checked all the other work I had done to the factory splices. Everthing wiring wise is good now, I do have a small amount of oil in the filter (this isn’t a big deal) as I know. I know all the sensors are good (TPS, MAP, IAC) vacuum lines are all good, new plugs, wires, dizzy, upgraded battery cables, new alternator and radiator/195 degree thermostat. Cooling system has been burped and it’s not running hot. New MTS fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, Volvo 746 4 hope injectors, new O2 sensor. Symptoms: low idle at start up, then levels off to 700-750, sometimes it dies and have to restart. i get a lean code on REMII then after running it jumps back and forth between lean/rich. First 3-4 miles it runs fair but is under powered. Shifting is jumpy and will barely pull a incline. Then the smoke starts, the longer the drive the worse the smoke gets and the power seems to get weaker. Have a hard time maintaining speed and rpms.

Honestly weighing my options right now and doing a lot of research.