comanche09

Man I really like that rack, functional and looks good too. Pre-2005 Tacoma rack. Nice :drool: Thats a great idea. Give's more options for tie downs other that the 4 bed corner loops.

I just painted mine black last night with some left over black caliper paint. Turned out pretty nice. I will post pics later.

Anyone know where I can get a thick rubber bed mat for my short bed? Would one for an S10 or Ranger fit? Anyone running bed rails? Headache rack? Custom stuff? Post pics if you got em! :cheers:

This is Great! :banana: In case anyone needs it: 1988 4.0L, BA10/5, DANA 35, SWB, 2WD = 53.125" eye center to center Part # 8953004667 (Still had sticker on it!)

Subscribed. Same problem, need the dimmer (no dimming function) turned up against the detent to have cluster lights. :popcorn:

Have they settled/sagged any? Should we expect them to? BTW I would go with Hellcreek for sure, based on posted experiences here with them

IIRC There may have been composition and/or thickness changes due to the installation of the driver airbag on 95+ models... XJ / MJ use the same windshield year for year. Perhaps Eagle can expound on this. I need to replace my windshield due to being unable to get to all the surface rust around the frame because of the trim "nubs" and most of my retaining clips are broken stuck in the polyurethane adhesive. :fs1: When I do replace it, I'm going to spec a 95+ windshield with the one piece rubber trim.

MT springs sound like the perfect solution for my rig. 2wd 102k springs to new MT's would effectively yield near 4" of lift if I read that right. And would get rid of my slight negative rake... :oops:

Yeah how does she ride? I stiffened up the front end with the XJ Upcountry springs (rides like a truck should). Want to match the rear as close as possible and I like overbuilding stuff.. :brows: Do they provide any lift vs OEM 4x4 non MT springs? Is there a difference in ride height between 2wd and 4x4 MT springs

Anyone running metric ton springs on a short bed? Any issues with this?

Cool Do you remember what year you pulled it from? Thanks

"Just" need to recalibrate the tach? How do you do that for that year cluster? :doh: Not possible with the '84-'86 cluster. There is no provision for trimming the potentiometer. JPcounty69, Sounds like your best bet would be either a trip to the junkyard to locate the correct 87-90 speedo cable (cheapest) or online/parts store. The tach on your '90 cluster is adjustable. See below link. Lots of helpful info and helpful people at naxja.org. Good luck. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=980088&highlight=tach

Your heater core is plugged up with scale... Yet another good reason to dump the pressurized plastic bottle system. :ack: You need to flush out your heater core. I was amazed at the amount of crud that came out. When I converted to open cooling, I removed all that mess and ran 5/8 hoses direct from the water outlet to the heater core (Just like its setup in my 08 KK) and capped the vac line. Just two 5/8 rubber hoses now, and ALOT less sources of potential problems. IMO better to have coolant circulating through the heater core rather than sitting there half the year every year. Use distilled water for refill of course. Hope that helps

To help the speedo cable issue, I believe 84-86 use the metal speedo connector. 87-90 is the plastic style. The speedos are not swappable between clusters. They mount differently, but I have an '84 FULL GAUGE cluster that will work in your '86 (just need to recalibrate your tach) Front of 84 cluster Backside view of 84 cluster

U-Pull-It Junkyards are your friend- Got my Ax-15 for $60

You can have my BA10/5 when I get around to doing my AX-15 and 4x4 swap (Just pay shipping). Its 2wd with around 102k miles on it. Seeps a bit out of the centerline split in the case (no drips though), but otherwise shifts perfect. -Sitting for 15 years! :eek: Check all the hoses/rubber, replace the drivebelt. Check for varmint damage BEFORE you hook up a new battery to it... Mice love to chew up electrical wiring... Have a fire extinquisher handy. Remove the fuel tank and inspect/clean it. Don't add gas until you know all the decomposed gas is out and its clean/ok.

I got lucky with this as most of it came off with the pan (another reason I replaced it). To get the original gasket off the block, I used aerosol spray gasket remover (be careful with this stuff, very toxic, eats paint/skin, causes cancer etc.) and a flat razor blade. I used small zip ties, strategically placed, to hold the gasket to the pan for installation.

I've read its best to use an OEM RMS. I used aftermarket and have had no leaks so far. While you've got the pan off, you could clean it up and repaint the outside if it needs it (of course clean out any slugde from the pan). I just replaced mine with a nice one out of the junkyard, original was too far gone (rusty). Check the torque on the Main Bearing Cap and Connecting Rod bolts. -Consider replacing same bearings if you have lower than normal oil pressure (their not that expensive). Consider replacing the oil pump. Take a look at your timing chain and check for excessive slack. I recommend using the one piece Felpro pan gasket. Hope that helps! PS: I removed the entire front axle when I did mine (swapped in a D30 while I was at it) Depending on if you are lifted or not, you may have to unbolt some suspension/steering parts to allow the axle to droop enough to clear the oil pan out.

Interesting. It's been a few years since i've looked at oils in depth. Bummer about Mobil 1... :( Do they produce any true synthetic anymore? My main premise for using it is its resistance to sludge buildup vs conventional dino. Can't blame them I guess, as their competitors were enjoying a much bigger profit margin (ie ripoff for the consumer) peddling their "synthetic oil". Are Amsoil and Royal Purple still real synthetic oil? Perhaps it is time to local my nearest Amsoil dealer :wall:

Castrol Syntec (except 0w-30 German origin), and most of the rest of the oil brands "Synthetic" oils are not a true synthetic, but just highly refined/additive package parafin (dino juice) oil. Not much better than regular old dino and IS a ripoff. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com Mobil 1 Synthetic IS a truly synthetic oil and is readily available (walmart). Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline Synthetics are also true synthetics, but not readily available to most. I run Mobil 1 Synthetic 10w-40 High Mileage and it is the same price as regular Mobil 1 Synthetic 10w-40.

TJ? No, the subject of the thread.

Did it still have its AX-15 and Driveshafts???? :bowdown: May have to make the 5 hr drive. Please let me know. Thanks :cheers:

Dibs on your AX-15! (if its 4x4 and still good) :yes:

Good thread from NAXJA: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66012&highlight=junkyard

Thanks Pete, that's good to know. KJ rear brake swap would allow use of OEM 15" wheels. I've read that people that do the popular ZJ rear disk swap have to use to 16" wheels, a big reason holding me back from upgrading to disks. Guess the brakes got bigger on KK's as my 15" oem MJ wheels definately won't clear front or rear.