teamsmith

I have a similar question: After a long weekend of wrestling bolts, I am nearly ready to install a replacement motor that has been sitting on a stand for 3 weeks. It's a '98 and has the the filter pointed backwards. I think I would prefer it pointed up like you all have discussed. Can anyone confirm I can just loosen the bolt and rotate? Other threads have referenced a locating pin that needs to be filed off. Is that the case for me? Thank you

sweet. So I'll order the Walker down pipe with the bung and figure on some flexpipe or other adaptation to the rest. Thanks

yes, it would be optimal to have picked up a 94+ transmission and transfer case. That will likely happen in the future but while the tranny is working fine, I will put that expense off as long as possible. I bought the advanced adapters bushing which I confirmed will work.

the muffler shop will make me what for $90? A bung hole, a cross over pipe? The Walker down pipe is only $45 and it has the bung hole, although I might have to extend the wires on the o2 sensor. I was just curious if anyone had done this or otherwise had insight on whether it would mate to Cat on my old exhaust.

I may be mistaken, but I think the CJ bushing will only work if I'm going in reverse, mounting a 94+ AX-15 to an older engine. It has an ID of .75" while I need an ID of .59 to mate to the transmission.

So, according to this post on Jeepsunlimited, my only option is getting a 87-93 and having it turned down by a machine shop. Stock 89 pilot bearing (National FC66426) 1.055 O.D. - .579 I.D. turned down to 1.0" O.D. http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?321964-Pilot-bearing-for-4-0-stroker-engine-swaps-in-5-speed-4-0-XJ/page2 Edit: It looks like if I switch to a bushing, which goes to the larger first step of the crankshaft, I can use an advance adapters (P/N 716156GM) Pilot Bushing .590 ID X 1.818 OD per the below thread. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/pilot-bearing-non-h-o-h-o-swap-20845/index2/ http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716156gm--pilot-bushing-590-id-x-1818-od/ Hopefully this post will help others who try to tackle this in the future.

Ok. So if bearing from either the '89 or '98 won't work, is there a bearing that will work? My search continues... Thank you all for your help. This site continues to be a valuable resource.

Ok thanks. I think I have it figured out. I'll get the bearing that is spec d to go with the ho.Thanks again

ok, Rock Auto calls it a clutch pilot bearing. Maybe they are using 'clutch' as an adjective, as in: This bearing is clutch in making sure that your input shaft is centered in your crankshaft. My head just spun around trying to visualize ID of input vs. OD Output then I got sidetracked thinking about Garfield's tormented dog, Odie. It looks like the crankshaft on the '98 and the '89 are the same so I'll use the '89 spec to match the transmission input shaft of the BA10/5. Thanks.

I would like to use the stock HO exhaust manifold (headers) for my swap but it doesn't have the bung hole and the dowpipe won't line up with the Renix crossover pipe. Does anyone know if I can use an HO crossover/down pipe (which has the bung) and whether it might match up with the rest of the exhaust under the truck? I'm looking at Walker front pipe off Rockauto:

I'm putting in an engine from a '98 and need to buy a new clutch pilot bearing. The part listed for the '98 is different than for my '89. Do I go with the clutch year ('89) or engine year ('98)? If I'm reading the spec correctly, it looks like the O.D. is the same for both years but the I.D. is different, so that tells me I should go with the clutch year. Can someone confirm? Thanks

Thanks. I was just looking at my ho fuel rail and see that it doesn't have a return or a fpr, I guess it's in the tank for this model. With this obstacle and the tps conversion, I think I will stick with the renix intake manifold for the time being just so I can get back on the road sooner.

Another question on the exhaust. If I were to get a set of pace setter headers, they appear to include the crossover pipe. Am I correct in assuming the crossover would still need some fab work done to connect the rest of the exhaust?

check out cruisers tips in the DIY section. Assuming you're meaining between the motor and the bell housing. It could be the valve cover gasket, oil filter adapter seals, or possibly the rear main. I would wipe everything off and start looking from the top down.

I was planning to re-use renix intake manifold per cruisers brief description in his tips. I didn't realize there was a port mis match and I would prefer to use the bigger intake on the ho. I guess I'll look into the adapter

Are you calling the down pipe a cross over pipe? So if I use the ho manifold and ho down pipe you're saying the rest of the exhaust will not line up? Any idea if the ho manifold will interfere with the renix intake manifold? I'm pretty sure my cat is gone and I've got antique tags so no inspection for me. Worse case if what I've understood you to say as true, I can run it open from the down pipe until I figure out how to connect to the under body section with muffler.

Thanks for this. I started today and got stuck my rusted exhaust manifold bolts. I'm gonna start again tomorrow. I understand that the downpipe doesn't line up with the Ho header and that it doesn't have the hole for the header pipe. Can I reuse the HO header if I use an HO downpipe and drill for the sensor? Any idea of an XJ downpipe will fit an XJ? My engine came with a header but I think I can source an exhaust for the downpipe. I guess I'll go pickup an E12 wrench and see if I can get at the back of the bellhousing. Thanks again... I'll likely have more questions.

thanks. I already have an engine from a '98 ready to go in so a 4.2 is not an option. The link you shared is the same link in my post which has points I need to clarify, such as the differences in dealing with ah manual and an auto. I added a post here per Pete's suggestion to get more views.

Thanks. I'd appreciate any input for the remaining questions. Assuming the weather cooperates, I hope to get the old engine out this weekend.

What do you mean by dropping the tail shaft? Do you mean drop the transmission/transfer case? Will dropping that assembly cause the engine to rock backward on its mounts, allowing the top bolts to be more easily accessed from beneath?

RockFrog, I'm putting a '98 motor in an '89 using all bracketry from '89 (PS, alternator, A/C). Should I use the 96+ belt routing or does using the Renix brackets change things? Thanks

Hello, I posted questions for doing a swap in the Swap Thread in the DIY section, linked below, but Pete suggested I post it here to get a better response. http://comancheclub.com/topic/7235-put-an-obd1-91-95-ho-40l-into-a-40l-renix-87-90-jeep/?p=472066 Hello, I have a few questions for this swap which I am about to undertake. I've been through the write ups here, Naxja, Off-road, FSM, etc. and still have a few loose ends to tie up. I'm reusing all Renix wiring, intake, and exhaust manifold on a '98 engine. -Cruiser54 referenced a temp sensor that needs to be extended to screw into the thermostat housing. ----Is this just for the electric fan? Since my fan is wired to a switch, do I even need to worry about this or does it do something else? -The above article references replacing accelerator cable and transmission cable. -----Since this is a manual transmission, do I need either/both of those? -I watched a good video on youtube that went through the steps of removing the engine with an automatic transmission and showed the removal of a shield behind the flexplate/fly wheel/converter and he spoke to removing bolts that are locktited on to the back of engine. I presume he was able to turn the engine by hand to access all four but it wasn't shown. -----Will this be required for my manual transmission or does the engine just come free from the tranny after removing bell housing bolts? -----To simplify the question, what bolts are required to set the engine free? I know about the motor mounts and bell housing bolts. What else? -I read a comment from someone that recommended dropping the tranny cross member and lower the transmission to access the E12 bolts. I have an E12 socket, two extensions, and two universal joints with springs surrounding them per suggestions from this post. ----What is the best way to get at the E12? Should I just go and get a wrench like Don referenced in a previous post and access it from the engine bay? thank you all in advance for your advice. I am feeling pretty overwhelmed at this point but hopefully once I'm able to get started things will start making sense. -Tim

Hello, I have a few questions for this swap which I am about to undertake. I've been through the write ups here, Naxja, Off-road, FSM, etc. and still have a few loose ends to tie up. I'm reusing all Renix wiring, intake, and exhaust manifold on the '98 engine. -Cruiser54 referenced a temp sensor that needs to be extended to screw into the thermostat housing. ----Is this just for the electric fan? Since my fan is wired to a switch, do I even need to worry about this or does it do something else? -The above article references replacing accelerator cable and transmission cable. -----Since this is a manual transmission, do I need either/both of those? -I watched a good video on youtube that went through the steps of removing the engine with an automatic transmission and showed the removal of a shield behind the flexplate/fly wheel/converter and he spoke to removing bolts that are locktited on to the back of engine. I presume he was able to turn the engine by hand to access all four but it wasn't shown. -----Will this be required for my manual transmission or does the engine just come free from the tranny after removing bell housing bolts? -----To simplify the question, what bolts are required to set the engine free? I know about the motor mounts and bell housing bolts. What else? -I read a comment from someone that recommended dropping the tranny cross member and lower the transmission to access the E12 bolts. I have an E12 socket, two extensions, and two universal joints with springs surrounding them per suggestions from this post. ----What is the best way to get at the E12? Should I just go and get a wrench like Don referenced in a previous post and access it from the engine bay? thank you all in advance for your advice. I am feeling pretty overwhelmed at this point but hopefully once I'm able to get started things will start making sense.

Well you can't accuse him of trying to shine it up and say it was only driven to church on Sundays. I might have changed out of my 'hooded serial killer' outfit before posing for the ad, but maybe that's just me.

how much lift are you guys running with the 5125/50/65? I'm on the same plan as Jim (assuming my engine swap goes ok) and have a set of ZJ coils waiting to go in which should only net ~1-1.5" over stock.