Yesterday's Danish

If anyone else goes through the same crap I went through here is an excellent thread on it. I'll have to pick up a new CCV valve and grommet. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/4-0l ... up-733669/

I got the valve cover off but in the process I busted one of the plastic hoses that goes into the valve cover. It's the one in the rear or the closest one to the firewall. Looks like it goes to the throttle body. It broke off at the elbow. Anyone know what part I need? More importantly how do you get that hose out of the valve cover without breaking it? Just wanna know this for next time. I got the one that goes to the air box pretty easy. Anyway tomorrow i'm gonna clean up the valve cover real good and clean the gasket surface on the engine. Thanks for the help guys.

Awesome, thanks guys. Off to home depot for some new bolts and then I'll tackle this job.

It's worth it just to go see the cute girl that works there. It's an added bonus.

So regular grade 2 bolts would be fine for the valve cover? I just want something that won't rust. I just found that the bolts are 1/4"-20. :thumbsup:

The gauges go up to a certain spot, then come back down. It does this ten or so times and the gauges go to various places. The lights on the gauge cluster light up and shut off as well.

Thanks. I think my Haynes manual has the torque specs. Does anyone know the size and thread count of the valve cover bolts? Mine are all rusty so I wanted to replace them with grade 8 bolts.

Well oil is leaking out from under the valve cover so I've decided to put in a new gasket. Any tips or tricks for this job? I've never done it before but it seems pretty straight forward. I spent the extra dough and bought the Fel-Pro rubber gasket. This is for the 4.0.

Up in Burrillville we didn't have a lot of flooding. A couple of spots here and there but nothing like what happened at the Warwick Mall. I should take a couple of pics of the ponds around my house. Some of them were bone dry a week ago. Now they're overflowing.

Lots of love for the Compass huh? I'm looking to get the same wheels for my comanche. Either those or the turbine wheels.

The only thing ridiculous about this ad is what the owner did to this poor poor ZJ. http://providence.craigslist.org/cto/1665394964.html

Not sure if it will dump any codes. Just tried it on my XJ and it went through the test as normal without giving me any code at the end of the test. Then again, my cluster works fine. Only one way to find out.

Not sure if this will help you but here is the procedure to do a self test on the gauge cluster. Put the key in the ignition and leave in the "OFF" position Turn the parking lights on (Pull the light switch out (1) click) Press and hold the "Trip Reset" button and switch the key to the "ON" position The cluster will "Beep" and begin it's self test. You may remove your finger from the "Trip Reset" button Watch the pretty lights and needles move around and light up Flip the turn signals on and verify they are working Do the same with the headlights and the bright switch After it is complete and you have verified that all the gauges and lights are functioning, button everything back up! Might tell you if the tach is broken or if the needle is just misaligned.

Looks like a great program. Too bad I live so far away. :( PM sent!

PM sent. :cheers:

Sure! Let me know if he is up for answering a few questions.

I need to do some research and ask a professional welder a few questions. After getting laid off from my last job, I'm getting trained in welding. The state is footing the bill for the training and I have to jump through a few hoops for it. Any help is appreciated!

The casting number is 0331. The head usually cracks between cylinders 3 and 4.

Tire carrier winch might mean the spare carrier underneath the bed. Not sure though. :dunno:

If you get a chance to hatch some chickens give it a shot. It's actually pretty fun. I bought duck eggs from a farm online and borrowed an incubator from my uncle's buddy. After a month my duck was hatched. I got all the info online. Not hard at all and you learn a little bit too. :thumbsup:

I don't have chickens, but I do have a pekin duck. Did you hatch these chickens yourself?

Wow that interior is flawless. :eek:

I'll be watching this thread. I was thinking of swapping out my 2.5 for a 4.0, but I kinda wanna keep it and do something fun and different with it.

Yep. A pillar starts at the windshield and runs up above the door. B pillar is where your interior lights are. You'll have to do driver and passenger side. A pillar trim has a couple screws that are covered with round caps. Just pop the caps off with a pick tool and you'll see the phillips head screws underneath. On the passenger side you'll have to take off the oh poopie handle that's attached. I think it uses torx screws if I remember correctly. With the B pillar trim you'll have to unbolt the top part of the seatbelts from the frame. I think they use t-47 or t-45 bolts. Having a torx socket will help because they're torqued down pretty tight. You'll also have to pop out the interior light and disconnect it from the harness. Finally, the B pillar trim is attached the back wall with, I think, 8 mm nuts. After all that is off the trim should just pop right off.

You need to take off the A pillar and B pillar trim to get at the headliner. Also have to take off the visors and the little visor clips. Then gently pull on the headliner. It should come right off.