buckwheat

I want to go with seats just like my current ones. Only in better condition and with sliders/ metal fasteners. So 94 and down flip forward bucket seats. I still have all the mounting points on the floor, so no worries there. And its good to know that the front seat bracket was cut in half. I thought there should be more there. . . So if I can graft the one cut bracket back together, everything else looks fine? I should be able to cut the brackets off of XJ seats and weld/ bolt my brackets on and be good to go?

Personal Opinion Only: Use Marvels Mystery Oil. I like the results I have gotten from it.

I recently had to reset my computer and lost my wiring diagrams. I just ripped up my carpet and found these: One end comes from the dash area, the other end goes to this connector by the rear of the truck. One is orange and the other is a light tan/ orange-ish color. They seem like they were cut, the ends match up and everything. The question is what do they go to? Everything is currently working on my truck, so it doesn't seem to be an issue, but before I put everything back together I want to figure this out. Anything you have is appreciated.

The PO managed to install flip forward seats (Like the ones from a 2 door XJ). However, he did it in a unique way. Now my question is: What can I salvage; and how can I salvage this? I really want working sliders on my seats. Not to mention having everything secured with metal instead of drilled out wood. Here are the photos:

I call BS. I have the complete steering from a V8 ZJ on my truck right now. Works great and is larger than stock.

The EGR is part of the emissions control. So legally, no you cannot get rid of it and if your state does emissions testing you are not likely to pass without it working properly. Personally I say get rid of it. I have mine capped off on my truck and it runs just fine. This includes winter starts. However we do not have emissions testing. AFAIK the EGR works by shunting part of the exhaust back into the intake, forcing the engine to re-burn it. This lowers NOx levels in the final exhaust. Otherwise it doesn't do anything productive.

So it sounds like I should Lizard Skin for sound reduction and heat protection, then herculiner over that for long lasting protection. Seems expensive, but should last for a long time. And since it should all bond together I shouldn't have to worry about my floor pans rusting from the inside out.

Thanks StrokerMJComanche, this is exactly what I was thinking about except for no carpet top layer. Do you remember how much of each product you needed to do the floors? And it looks like you removed the dash in your picture. Did you do that just for coverage on the firewall? Jackrabbit41, since herculiner by itself made such a difference that gives me great hope for the lizard skin products.

I am about to start fighting the rust that is growing on my truck (87 MJ with BA 10-5 and 4x4 not that it matters at all). One of the things I want to do is get rid of the carpet and backing pad. I hate the idea of moisture getting trapped and just sitting on the floor pans. At the same time I want to control interior temps and reduce road/ engine noise as this truck is my DD year round. A tall order I know . . . The good news is I don't mind having bumps and odd shapes on the floor, as long as the covering I go with gives me traction and creates a barrier between any water and the metal of the floor pans. Anyways, I was wondering if people had any recommendations on how to accomplish all this? I am looking at Lizard Skin, but wasn't sure how it would hold up, which order to apply the various products in, etc etc. Anyone have ideas/ recommendations for me? Personal experience and stories appreciated.

IMO: Keep the BA 10-5 at least until it gives you problems. No need to throw money away on parts that, for right now at least, you do not need. Like 87MJTim said, if it becomes problematic, then by all means swap it out. But for a mostly daily driver it will be just fine. As for oil, I use 75W90 synthetic. Some people really like Redline MT oil. If you are looking to change your oil there is a really good how to article HERE. A better place for you to start spending time is on Cruiser's Tips. Check out cruiser54.com. I highly recommend you do all of the listed tips BEFORE doing anything else with the vehicle. Get it running correctly from the start, then work on upgrades and other things.

I honestly think the BA 10-5 gets a bad rap. Keep it full of fluid and it will last a long time. Unless you are a hardcore wheeler. There was a thread a while back where people stated theirs lived for 200,000+ miles with no problems. So what are your intentions with the vehicle?

Well its a baffleless tank. When I looked it up on a parts store computer it said it was for the diesel MJ. But it is an 18 gallon tank made for the SWB. So cross reference the Spectra JP5A number, because I know that one is correct. Check it out here, and look at the compatibility tab. I know there is not such a thing as an 87 diesel MJ, but that is what their reference is to. OP: I hope someone can give you more information about the Dakota tank. Good luck.

You can do that, but if you're shaky on your skills, think about getting a fuel tank for the 1986 MJ with the 2.1 diesel. I think the spectra number is JP5A. These do not have a baffle inside of them, which allows you to run a cherokee sending unit. The cherokee units can still be had new, just make sure to get the same year as your vehicle. You could also modify the cherokee sender to work in the MJ. I personally modified the baffleless tank by putting in a custom baffle and the cherokee sending unit. Works very well, and the best part is if it ever goes bad I can just get a new unit and plop it in. If you are set on doing the Dakota fuel tank, I will let someone who knows more jump in. I decided it was too much fab work for me, plus you have to heat and mold part of the plastic tank. It just didn't seem like a good idea. All of that is just my opinion though.

You undid the five nuts along the radiator support as well, right? They are kinda hidden on the top side of the header facing into the engine bay.

Just a tip for ya: When I try searching for something I use Google. Except I only include comancheclub.com sites. So I found the following links by searching "site:comancheclub.com what oil to use". Remember that trick for future research. In the mean time, read these articles: http://comancheclub.com/topic/36262-preferred-oil-weight/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/18739-oil/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/27580-best-motor-oil/ That should take care of your questions.

And (ignoring the legal side of things) the odometers are ridiculously easy to change to any value in a Renix cluster. Could be the same for the HO, but I haven't dealt with them. So basically you can't trust a Renix odometer unless you are the original owner.

People often jump the gun on a 'broken wire'. Start with the basics and move up from there. Refresh all your grounds. Do the main Cruiser tips. Check CPS output. Get actual fuel pressure (true PSI measurement) at the rail. Then move on to a noid light. After that you can start worrying about the bigger things, like a possible wire break somewhere in the wire loom I know it is frustrating, but start at the beginning so we can make sure the foundation is good. Then if the problem persists smarter people than me will chime in with ideas.

I did put in some camber shims. I was at -1.3* on the passenger side and -1.5* on the driver side according to the local alignment shop. So I found a +1* shim and put that behind the unit bearing. Does anyone know if i will also need to find a way to shim the caliper to match? And I do have a lift and recently put on adjustable control arms just so I can control my caster. I was planning on putting the gauge on the top of my new upper ball joint and getting as close to 7* as possible. I haven't heard of putting it on the diff cover before. I would think that makes it harder to adjust one side versus another. Good reminder on having the truck on its tires to do all my measuring and setting. Thanks for all the help gents.

I have been running the BA 10-5 for several years now. Just make sure to keep it topped off with fluid and it will last. There was a post a while back where people stated how many miles they had put on their BA 10-5. Some of the numbers were impressively large. What plate are you talking about by the way? Or do you mean clutch and flywheel? Make sure to get the pilot bearing if you are doing all this work.

There should be a bleeder valve (just like on the brake system) coming out of the bell housing. I know for the BA10-5 its on the upper portion of the driver's side bellhousing. Since yours is an AX-15 it could be difference, but should be in the neighborhood at least. Procedure is just like bleeding brakes: Open the valve, step on the clutch pedal, close the valve, release the pedal, repeat. Make sure to add fluid to the master cylinder and never let it run dry. Also helps to have two people.

Thanks for the thoughts ParadiseMJ. I am swapping out everything for V8 ZJ stuff. I hope to be able to comfortably drive 70mph again rather than white knuckle driving at 60mph. Truck was getting a little shaking at speed and especially going over bumps. Part of the impetus for this was to adjust caster and camber angles. So that should go a long way to making it drive better. I will make sure to check toe in before I take it to an alignment shop. Anyone have any other ideas/ comments/ etc?

Thanks Don. Part numbers are really nice to have. Just in case someone sees this in the future and wants the Moog part numbers, here is what I ordered from Amazon: Moog DS1310 Moog ES3096L Moog ES2079S Moog didn't have a cross over for TUBE, 52037536, so here is hoping the ES2079S is what is needed. Hopefully when it comes in everything fits perfectly and I can get my truck back on the road.

So I am completely replacing the steering on my truck. I have the tie rod, TREs, and sway bar from a 98 Grand Cherokee. However, I didn't think about the drag link, and I would like to replace that as well. I found some Moog part numbers from a post in the DIY section, but wasn't sure they would play well with the other pieces I have from the Grand Cherokee. Can someone confirm that Moog DS1046 Tie Rod End - Goes from passenger knuckle and connects to Moog ES2080S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve - which would connet to Moog ES2222L Tie Rod End - which finally connects to the pitman arm will work for me? And I am slightly confused by the names here. Aren't these pieces the 'drag link' and not part of the 'tie rod ends'?

Its highly likely that either your clutch line or slave cylinder has developed a leak/ or blown. Especially where the fluid came from I would say your slave cylinder is gone. Check the firewall on the inside of the truck above the fuse box to make sure that its not the master cylinder leaking. That would be a bad thing. Brake fluid and electrical doesn't mix. Why do you say its the brakes that are empty? Are you sure you weren't looking at the master cylinder reservoir? Its a small white plastic cylinder attacked to a piece of metal right at the firewall in the engine bay. The brake reservoir is a metal oval attached to the brake booster. Just making sure you are looking at the correct thing. To replace the slave cylinder you will need to drop the transmission. Depending on the mileage, might want to think about replacing the clutch, flywheel, and pilot bearing while you are there. There are some nice write-ups explaining the procedure. Its not terrible, but plan a few days to get it all done. And make sure to rent a transmission jack. Hope this helps.

hahaha. Sorry, laughing aside, if you see iirc on the internet it stands for 'if I recall correctly'.