Wesleypipesyo

Where in Virginia are you? I drove down to Roanoke yesterday and back. Your 70mph speed limit was fun on the way down and sucked coming back.

I think I found the issue with my battery. Someone filled the cells with motor oil. So a new battery is in order.

Where are you going to source the WRX seats?

The bed has a few rusted through spots above the wheel wells. The frame rails seem to be clean. The rust is on the X cross support under the bed. It is pretty bad. I am going to take the bed off and wire brush it to heck and back. There is a thread on here somewhere of a guy who cut a foot or so out of the back of his bed and put the tailgate back on. If I ever find it, I am going to mirror that. I also want to make the bed removable. I do not want to roll the thing and damage the bed.

If you can find one, look for a hp30. That will be a stronger axle and allow for a little more growth in the future.

I had a chain that went over the rear axle and one that went over the front axle. I was told to not to put tension on those chains. They are there to keep the truck on the trailer in case of an accident. Most flat bed trailers you tie the vehicle to the trailer front and rear with straps over the axles. At least from what I have seen.

I wish I could have found something with a short bed. But this is most of what I want, it was in the price range. And I can fix the problems that I know about.

Here is the first picture. I have a few more, but this is the good side.

I guess this is how you do an intro to the forum. Here is my new to me truck. It is a 1988 4.0 auto rust bucket. The guy I bought it from said it was nothing but problems for him. His 8 year drove it into a guard rail, his wife left the ignition on and killed the battery, lots of little things. For me, she gets new doors. Then the bed comes off for a little rust removal on the rear frame. Then some new brakes. After that I might play with the steering some. Then it will be left alone for a while. Also, I am just noticing a lack of upload picture option. So I will pull the computer out tomorrow and link away to pictures. Lets add pictures This is my favorite part. The lady said the door is damaged. However it does close and lock. And it does not leak. hahahahaha Check out the wicked sweet interior. It has the factory radio in it. We all know that means it is work bank.

The long wheel base fits fine. I am not sure how much I like only strapping the the front tires down. But I just drove close to 300 miles will a 1988 long bed mj on a uhaul trailer and a f150. Gas mileage sucked pretty bad. But plenty of power.

Permission to buy another beater rig.

I am driving 4 hours tomorrow to look at a truck with a lot less bed liner than this one. I wish Seattle was closer than 3,000 miles.

That is cost savings.

I gave up on this idea. I am still looking for a truck with the right drive train. I hope to go look at a truck Friday. It is a little over 4 hours away. I will be unhappy if the people are lying about the condition of the truck. But it is pretty close to what I want.

Can you shoot me a pm with the info? Pretty please.

I emailed the guy about it. I asked if it was a typo. Nope he wants 20k.

Hey, are you looking for only a trade? Or do you have a dollar amount in mind?

Do you have any pictures of the tunnel where you put the shifter? Or any of the tcase mounted? Thanks

No, I needed limiting straps big time. I had a long arm kit and I didn't have sway bars. The thing flexed like mad. It was a beast in the woods.

I am hoping the deal of a life time drops into my lap when I get back from Alabama.

I have seen a little on auto to manual. But I want to end up with an auto. That and 4x4.

The goal is to end up with an auto 4x4. I am going to look at a beat up 4x4 next weekend. But it is a 2.5l 5spd. I much prefer auto for offroading. And the truck will end up sitting in DC rush hour traffic atleast once a week.

Here is a school of thought not yet brought up in this thread. What are you using the vehicle for? If it is an offroad toy go cheap and build it for the woods. Who really cares about ride quality when you are flying down the trails? If it is a DD then save up for a while and buy the proper kit. I had a tj that I tried to set up for comfort because I was driving it every day. I let the axles drop too far too many times while offroading and blew out 2 of the 3 shocks on the jeep. After that I realized it was not worth putting a ton of money into comfort if it is going to be abused in the woods. And that is my mind set with only being able to get to RC 2 or 3 times a year. Just an idea.

It would seem that I am going to have to be a touch less picky in trying to find a truck to buy. So I will throw it this out there and see what sticks. Which is easier/less involved? Manual to auto swap or 2wd to 4wd swap. The manual to auto swap seems to be a lot of wiring. You need to replace the bulk of the wiring harness. You need a new cross member. A new transmission with bellhousing and other hard ware. I have seen some people say that you need a new steering column. What do you need for the 4x4 swap beside the tcase, front axle, drive shafts, and center console? Thanks. Jeff

So, Let me apologize for bring back this old thread. But, what flavor lifts are you guys using to achieve 37s? I am looking at a jeeps and I want to factor in upgrades into my budget. Thanks