Bobolink

Aw, no sweat. Thanks for tryin'. I can live with weird.

Okay...did that, but didn't help.... this post was supposed to quote you, but it didn't.

I am now trying something new here....I have clicked on mutliquote, and there's a box at lower right of screen with a green button that says "Reply to 1 quoted post(s)" Now I'll click on that when I'm through typing to see what happens. Nothin' happened..........

I've tried clicking both quote and multiquote, but neither seems to do anything. I just clicked the quote button on your post above, in order to reply to your post #5, but as you can see, all that happens is that I get the empty reply box in which to type. I do get an advanced typing box, with all the font choices, etc after clicking the quote button, but there's still no quote included.

Here, I just tried to quote myself.... see? no workie!!

Can anybody tell me why, when I click on the "quote" button at the bottom right of someone's post, that any reply that I write will not include the quote? I cannot get a quote to post, whether I use the quote button or the muit-quote. Neither one works. It simply sends me to a window to type the reply without a quote.

The 746s are one piece. No possibility of leaks.

Okay...thanks y'all. I didn't think about the holes for armrest support, etc. Makes sense. My interior's a light tan, and I was trying to decide how I'll match the colors.

I'm aware of the modifications to the latch and such. And it's not 97+ doors I'm referring to; it's 97 only. 98 and up have different hinges and I'm not interested in tackling a different hinge. All that's required on the 97 door is to replace the old single stud striker with the 97 "D" shaped striker in a lower position. All I want to know from those who have done this before is if the 90 interior panel will fit over the 97 inner door sheet metal, or if anyone has even tried it. I realize also that there are different switch arrangements on the panels to consider.

For those of you who've done the door swap from the '97 4 dr Cherokee .... I have a '90 Pioneer, hockey stick shaped armrests, molded storage compartments on the bottom. I'm thinking about picking up a couple '97 doors locally. Does my '90 interior door panel fit onto the '97 door, or do I have to do something else to match the color of the other interior trim/upholstery?

From my own experience, the most likely place for the leak is where the small hard black plastic vacuum line passes beneath the tray holding your coolant presure bottle, just prior to entering the firewall. I have had two leaks there, within 6-8" of the firewall. It is easiest to access if you move the pressure bottle aside and remove the tray. Thoroughly feel all along the vacuum tube for any roughness, and if you find any roughness, look closely there for abrasion and a leak. Fix it with a piece of appropriately sized rubber vacuum hose.

253K on my '90. Had it since new. Never opened the bottom end. Replaced head gasket once at roughly 130K, so did valve job, too. Drive it daily, pulls my 4000#+ boat 6-8 times a year 250 miles to coast and back. Drive on 600-800 mile trips on occasion to see the kids. Still gets 19 MPG in mixed city/hwy, 10 MPG pulling the boat.

I'm sure mine is not busted. I can definitely tell the difference in downshift response if I change the adjustment. I just made the comment because my adjuster does not work as illustrated by everyone else.

Thanks, but after looking up your instructions immediately after having posted previously, I decided that I've already got my email and registration and who knows what other info on enough places on the web. The supplied L-bracket on the 37042 is mounted on the bottom of my "frame", with four 1/2" bolts and backing plates, and the bracket on the hitch is bolted to that. The hitch tube sits about 1" below my bumper, and the back edge of the 2" sq. hitch tube is almost even with the rear edge of the bumper. No part of the hitch frame touches any part of the bumper or bumper brackets. It's rated at 5000#/500#TW. Amazon sells it for $99. Pics: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

The hitch i installed is indeed the Reese #37042. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to insert images, otherwise I would post the pictures that I took today.

I can get pictures for you after I go into town on Monday. My camera needs batteries.

That's what I'm saying doesn't work....won't "ratchet" with the button released. It will hold the plunger all the way in and prevent any further opening of the throttle. I'm fine with it as is.

Don't know what's wrong with mine, 'cause unless I hold the release button down, that plunger won't come out at all. Nothing I could do would pull it out. And my 1990 FSM adjustment instructions don't exactly jive with the instructions in Cruiser's link. My manual instructions read: 1) Turn igniton switch to OFF position. 2) Fully retract cable plunger. Press the cable button all the way down. Then push cable plunger inward. 3) Rotate primary throttle lever to wide open throttle position. 4) Hold primary throttle lever in wide open position and let cable plunger extend. Release lever when plunger is fully extended. Cable is now adjusted. So it was never clear to me whether to hold the button down while opening the throttle lever, or release it first. The other thing is that, as I said, the only way the plunger will extend is to push the button down. But when I do that and open the throttle lever all the way, the plunger comes out so far that when the throttle lever is released, the plunger will be sticking out so far as to prevent it from closing completely. So I've just set the plunger to stick out about an inch or so, and figured the hell with it. And it drives just fine, seems to downshift when it should.

About 5 years ago I installed a Reese universal hitch on my long bed, I think it was the 37042 (can check mañana). It wasn't made for it, of course, but by drilling a hole or two, it worked out well.

There's a kit available from Redline tuning: http://www.redlinetuning.com/QL-JEEP-CHER-8601.html

I doubt that any auto xmsn would last long without a cooler. But aside from that, I'm curious how you determine this is an '86? I can't find that anywhere.

A number of years ago, I measured and wrote down the inside dimensions from the front wall of the bed to the rear edge of the bed floor for a mat ...88½"; from front inside wall to front of wheel well.... 27"; from rear of wheel well to rear edge of bed floor .... 27"; which puts center of wheelwell 44¼" from inside front wall of the bed. Wheel wells are centered on the bed on the long bed.

well, uh...the link that Jeep Driver provided says 1" lift on MJ.

They're on my '90 heavy ton (or big ton or metric ton or whatever it was called that year).

Well now, I didn't say that at my age, my recall was all that keen anymore :hmm:, but I'd be glad to check if you'll give me a week or so to get back up after I get down under her.....