Dillithium

Bog under throttle and irregular idle can be a lot of things, vacuum leak(check the intake manifold, snug up the bolts), fuel pressure, timing. I'm no expert, but those are things you could check before an actual expert replies.

If I'm correct, but people who haven't eliminated it will know better, at max capacity the stock MJ prop valve lever will need to be vertical(for max brake power). Try tying it off in a vertical position with a zip tie, then do a test run. I don't know how to test the prop valve, tbh. But again, most of your braking power comes from the front. I think you're putting too much effort in the rear. How are the front pads? Discs? Brake lines relatively new/good condition? If the lines are perished, they sometimes soak up a lot of braking force by expanding when you brake.

In all seriousness, both pegs need to come out simultaneously on your rear cylinders. But that shouldn't cause THAT big of a brake performance issue. Try pushing in the stuck pegs, check for movement but you're probably due for replacing them.

That's what I was hoping for, thank you Hornbrod! I'm going to try and figure out my gear ratio, then i'll post back the results.

Yes, I will have to in due time when I'm ready to swap axles. But does anyone know if there's a difference between the dana 44 and dana 35 backing plates off a ZJ? I can't find this anywhere.

Hah, I figured I'd be the third person to ask that at least, but I guess not. Good use for a dishwasher

I have a dilemma I can't quite figure out, hope some of you can chime in. I currently have a non c clip dana 35, it has a bad yoke that needs replacing. It has drum brakes. I want disc brakes, as seen in my build thread I scored ZJ backing plates. These aren't a bolt on affair on non C clip axles, I don't want to mess with redrilling holes and adding a spacer plate. So I need a newer rear axle. I forgot to check the gearing in my front diff last time I had it open, I'm assuming that with a 2.5 ax5 combo I have 4.10 in both diffs.(?) Initially, I wanted a 29 spline 8.25 chrysler to put in the rear. Turns out that those axles are super hard to find with 4.10, and expensive. Ford 8.8 is just not available in Holland, plus I would like to stick with a chrysler or Dana option. My current thought, a c clip dana 35 is easier to find with 4.10. I already know where I can find one. I will never run tires bigger than 29-30", will never do more than mall crawling and DD'ing. A dana 35 should work for me. Also, if i'm correct I will not have to shorten my current driveshaft when I put in a c clip dana 35, correct? Problem is, the JY could not tell me if the backing plates came off a V8 or the i6. I.e. dana 35 or 44a. Is there a difference in backing plates on rear axles for that? I can't find a reference picture anywhere. If they came from a dana 35, I believe it's a straight bolt on. Bottomline, I really like the idea of swapping in a c clip dana 35 but I don't know if my backing plates will fit. Also, if it turns out I have 3.55 gearing, there's an 8.25 waiting for me but I'd hate to have to spend money on driveshaft shortening and balancing.

Hope you can find what's causing your brake problem, and I gotta ask. What did you use from a dishwasher?

I hate drums too, I just put new shoes on them and I'm already trying to get rid of them. Discs are just nicer to work on and look better. I picked up a full cluster, too. Will be putting that in later today I hope.

I have the exact same problem, fuel gauge no worky and can't put more than 10 gallons in. My working theory so far, is that the PO put in a cherokee sending assembly, because my tank is new too. Might be something worth looking into. I've been putting it off because I hate working with fuel.

I'm not sure if you have a lot of Suzuki in US JY's, but they had them. As far as good/bad, make sure it's straight and inspect the teeth inside the diff.

Those are the exact rims I'm looking for, very cool! I'm jealous of your clock, too. Keep us posted.

I passed the state inspection last thursday! I'm very glad I can now actually drive it on the road, and start using it. I had it aligned as well, since I re-did a lot of steering parts. I had the tires balanced too, to be sure. Then this happened. It's warped, it's beyond saving. I can't say I care that much, because I wanted new rims anyway. I just figured I could drive on these for a while more. I scored pretty good though, with this. As soon as I get around buying an 8.25'' rear axle to replace my dana 35, I'll swap discs on them too. I also bought a new cluster, interior footwell courtesy lights and something I'm going to try to turn into a rear bumper. I'll update and let you guys know how that goes. I'm seriously considering buying a ZJ donor with a 5.2, when time and money allows it. I just think that my first car, being an American car, needs to have a V8. It's a lot of work, but other people have done it so why can't I? More to come!

Can't see it as more than half an hour of labortime. If you have a shop you trust to do work for you, it might be worth it. It'll be cheaper than a nutsert tool.

well, that comes down to wether or not you have one of these: I just put in a new nutsert with that. I'm not sure if you can rent one of those at Autozone or Napa, but it would be the easiest fix.

I had the same problem with my hardline on the drivers side! I can't imagine that's a coincidence. Anyway, what I did. - Lots of penetrating fluid, spray it, go play fetch with the dog for 10 minutes, reapply, etc. Rinse and repeat. - Find your favorite vise grip, preferably one with teeth. - Use a heatgun/blowdryer to make it warm, DO NOT use an open flame/torch Then use the vise grip to break it loose, make sure it's on there good before you start to break it loose. I hope for your sake the nutsert on the frame isn't loose, or comes lose when you start applying pressure. That's a different problem I had to tackle. Good luck!

No you can not. The 4.0 straight six uses a completely different bellhousing than the 2.8V6 and 2.5 4 cylinder. He said transfer case.

I noticed, but a 10'' ledge isn't that much. The ramp comparison was only used because it was a steep climb.

I've pulled my manche on car ambulances with short ramps with my little TBI, and it has severely worn piston rings. I doubt it's a power issue.

Snapping a u joint is impressive! Not sure if I should compliment you on it, but pretty damn impressive! I've had to cut through a few of them, hard as diamonds. Looking forward to reading more, love the snow pics.

Welcome Airman! Looks good, what are your plans for it?

No, what you read has to do with pressure flushing the transmission. The AW4 is NOT that sensitive. Check your fluid level and condition again, you might want to do a drain and fill again, especially if the fluid was brown-ish. There are ~8 qts. total in the AW4, most of which are captive in the torque converter. Drain and fill a series of 3 to get the majority of the old fluid out and new fluid in. 3.75 qts out, 3.75 qts. back in. My mistake, I remembered it incorrectly.

Didn't know how much I could fit into one forumpost, so here's part two! Found out it was inertia lock here, yay! Studying the Handbrake system, what a crap system... Welded in a plate, drilled a hole in it and tapped some thread so the catch for the handbrake has zero play it in. Then we made a new catch, oilhardened it and voila, a working handbrake! Disconnected the rear prop valve, took it off and made it into this. Used the nose brake line coming out of the front junction block and hooked it up directly to the rear brakes, all thanks to Eagle!(I searched a lot, he has a great forumpost on this somewhere) Front axle missed the track bar, steering dampener(noticed it was leaking pretty badly) and and the lower tierod. New dampener plus dog new ZJ tierod set, bought new. old trackbar balljoint side, if I blew hard enough the balljoint would wiggle...it was pretty bad. Didn't get a picture of it all bolted up, but everything was torqued up to spec and off I was to a second inspection! Got my new VIN number stamped in But alas, it failed again. There was a 62% difference in rear braking power between the two wheels. I just didn't understood how, I bled everything, set them myself and it was such a big difference. Seeing as it was an early morning, i decided to rush to my local Jeep specialist and have him tackle it. Set them, new shoes, whatever..I wanted my damn plates. He set them, new shoes, etc. The works. On his brake tester it came down to a 22% difference. So off I was, back to the place of inspection. Only halfway there, a lot of white smoke came from my rear axle and a sudden jerk pulled me into the ditch....I knew I was screwed, something was wrong with my rear brakes again. I limped to the inspection place, and this time it was 65% difference. I was defeated. It gets worse, while driving back from the inspection place on the highway, my car started to jerk really badly. Literally back and forth motion as I was doing 60 mph on fourth on the highway. It goes away as I depress the clutch, and it only happens when the car is warm. I still need to figure out what it is. It's just not driveable now. This is it on a trailer, going to the shop so they can fix their mistake with the rear brakes. I'm hoping to get a call about it today, so I can go pick it up and have it inspected thursday. But who knows...we'll just have to see. I just hope I can fix whatever is causing that weird jerking motion. That's it for now, I'll update again later.

Well, since I'm waiting on a phonecall I figured I should update this. It's only been what, 5 weeks? I think that's a good average, right?...right? Anyway, moving on. I had a few things I knew I needed to take care of before my national inspection, the steering input shaft was leaking, brakes were full of air and that was it (or so I thought at the time). Digging right in, think it can't be that bad. Whoops, someone installed the pads on wrong. There's a short pad and a long pad for Comanche's, PO didn't get that memo so the tab on the brakepad caught the caliper bracket. Good to know I only drove 90 miles with this! Tearing off the hub nut, everything came off pretty easily. Replaced the u joint on both cv axles on the front D30, though only took a picture on the one. These were the battery clamps, holy molten metal batman! Didn't take a picture of the new clamps, it's not that interesting but if desired I can add it in later. Replaced the U joint on my front DS, the double cardan was still good. Then re-installed it all Bolting it up. Then the dreaded power steering box, that was a PITA sandwich!. Hard to get out, heavy to catch as it's falling. I used some rope to help me catch it. Out it is, ready to have the seal replaced. The old seal and dustcap were pretty far gone! Reinstalled, added a little too much ATF which promptly exploded all over me while bleeding it...you live and learn, provided you didn't swallow the ATF. Some last minute cleaning of the factory Diff guard. Off I was to inspection I thought! But nope, found this the morning before the day of inspection... I mean, the sun is nice and all but it heated the window up so much it must've cracked an old repair. Window being replaced on the morning of the inspection So, off I went to the national inspection to get my plates! Not... I failed inspection, not horribly but there were some issues I should've caught. - Massive amount of play in my tracker bar - Loose tierod on the axle side. - seatbelts didn't lock as they were pulled(found out later they're just American seatbelts, they're inertia lock) - Rear Prop valve inoperable - Handbrake didn't stay down, the pedal that is - Upper balljoints on the knuckle had a little play in them, but it was still passable. Told me to do it within the next 5K miles or they'll fail. - Lastly, it needed a vin number. Not under the window, not on the radiator bracket but actually stamped in the frame. Appearantly 'Murica doesn't do that, so I had to make an appointment for that. So, I had to fix all of this and come back in 2 weeks. No problem!...I guess... The Jeep thing started to find its way into my wallet.

I've read that when replacing transmission fluid, if it's been in there for a long time the sudden pressure difference due to the new fluid can cause it to act up. I hope that's not the case, but you mentioned changing the fluid recently which triggered that connection for me.