Jacob Ochs

the wiring for this was pretty simple I wired i spliced into the tach signal wire, the ran a power and ground and then wired up the accessory wire to activate the lights.

here's where I put mine

hahahah sounds like you shift at about 6k Jim :rofl:

The part number for what I got is 555-40824 from JEGS, it's $51.99. And wow that programmable shift sounds really really expensive! And thank you!

Thank you, very much!

okay, I'll message you if I do!

That does NOT sound weird. Doing it just because it is fun is a great thing. I just said that because the majority of people I know hate wireing and problems. But ive always had a thing for it I love fixing little wirig gremlins and finally getting to the bottom of things.

Thanks all, and in all honesty I don't need it, what so ever. But ever since I was a kid I loved knick knack stuff a lot and this fit in the category! I love wireing and soldering with a passion, as weird as that sounds.

Thanks, but so do I.

working now?

Hold on ill try and fix it!

is the axle a vacuum disconnect axle (CAD) ? I had the same problem and just re ran the vacuum lines, my light is triggered by a sensor in the vacuum lines! No the front axle is out of a 2001 xj, which is currently bent and being swapped with a 98 tj d30 well crap I won't be any help to you then, I'm sorry!

is the axle a vacuum disconnect axle (CAD) ? I had the same problem and just re ran the vacuum lines, my light is triggered by a sensor in the vacuum lines!

I 100% agree as far as the 97+ mirrors go! But the window post never seemed to bother me ( I drive my dads XJ all the time) so for me it all comes down to looks!

Awhile back I posted a thread asking how to get the favtory upshift light to work, well I got replies on how bad it sucked. So I improvised and used a JEGS RPM activated switch and 3 red 194 leds I had and came up with this... here's a youtube link http://youtu.be/G3Wr49NDSa8 so what do you guys think? I can make a write up next time I have the dash apart so just let me know!

Ive seen the mirrors on my MJ on various other 86 year model comanches, it almost looks like the old ford truck aluminum mirrors Those are mine painted black. So I was contemplating going with the regular 84-96,86-92 mirror style that are on the majority of MJ's and XJ's. What are your guys oppinions? I just need help deciding I have the other style mirrors sitting In the garage but I'm just not sure! 97 mirrors are out of the question.... because I hate them but thats just my oppinion. So thanks ahead of time to those who give feedback.

:agree: Also they say youre not allowed to talk to other recruiters... thats not actually fact... you just have to withdraw from your current recruiter before you can sign with another one. Also... contacting your congressman is an excellent option. . Thank you, that's what I was told. Once your with a recruiter your locked in is what they say but I know that's not true. I will look into switching, only problem is the only recruiter near me other than this one is in the state of Illinois, will that matter if I'm in Missouri?

:agree: Also they say youre not allowed to talk to other recruiters... thats not actually fact... you just have to withdraw from your current recruiter before you can sign with another one. Also... contacting your congressman is an excellent option. . Thank you, that's what I was told. Once your with a recruiter your locked in is what they say but I know that's not true. I will look into switching, only problem is the only recruiter near me other than this one is in the state of Illinois, will that matter if I'm in Missouri?

Update: well I was told last week I would be leaving Feb. 9th.... Well low and behold i was told today, "nope bad news" and now don't know when I'll leave. So with me thinking I was going to leave I sold the Explorer that I was going to use for the 5.0 swap and made a $500 profit. This sucks because I can't get a job since I could leave at any time. I've never not had a job since I've turned 15 and am really bummed as I feel sort of worthless at the moment with no work, so I think with the profit I made on the explorer ill start buying cheap cars and flipping them to keep me occupied. Hopefully I'll get to recruit training soon because my life is on hold right now.

very bad angle will take better pics tomorrow I laughed when I saw how bad the lines look in that picture

hahah that is actually a really bad angle ill take better pics of the lines tomorrow morning! But they are not collapsed

So I bought a new master and bled all brakes... Problem still presists. I tried doing that procedure you told me but I don't understand it... If I bled the brakes with a front caliper bleeder valve open then it'll just suck air into the system!Only into the front circuit. That's the point. The bypass circuit on the rear proportioning valve is there so that if the front brakes fail, the rears switch to full braking power. In order to make that work, there are two lines from the front distribution block to the rear. A conventional bleed only bleeds the primary line, not the bypass. So you simulate a front brake failure by opening a front bleeder. There's no guarantee that's your problem, but there is a prescribed way to bleed MJ brakes, and if you haven't properly bled the bypass circuit you haven't bled the system. If it works, you're good to go and you've learned something. If it doesn't work, all you've lost is a half hour and a partial can of brake fluid. IMHO that's better than throwing parts at it and finding out the new parts didn't solve the problem. Well I got it figured out after driving for about an hour something seemed to break loose and now the brakes work great! Here she is all mocked up I needed that bigger booster to stop the awesome power of my 2.8L ;)

So I bought a new master and bled all brakes... Problem still presists. I tried doing that procedure you told me but I don't understand it... If I bled the brakes with a front caliper bleeder valve open then it'll just suck air into the system!Only into the front circuit. That's the point. The bypass circuit on the rear proportioning valve is there so that if the front brakes fail, the rears switch to full braking power. In order to make that work, there are two lines from the front distribution block to the rear. A conventional bleed only bleeds the primary line, not the bypass. So you simulate a front brake failure by opening a front bleeder. There's no guarantee that's your problem, but there is a prescribed way to bleed MJ brakes, and if you haven't properly bled the bypass circuit you haven't bled the system. If it works, you're good to go and you've learned something. If it doesn't work, all you've lost is a half hour and a partial can of brake fluid. IMHO that's better than throwing parts at it and finding out the new parts didn't solve the problem. okay so I did this bleeding process and its a lot better but not how it feels in my parents Cherokees with the same setup! Any suggestions?

So I bought a new master and bled all brakes... Problem still presists. I tried doing that procedure you told me but I don't understand it... If I bled the brakes with a front caliper bleeder valve open then it'll just suck air into the system!Only into the front circuit. That's the point. The bypass circuit on the rear proportioning valve is there so that if the front brakes fail, the rears switch to full braking power. In order to make that work, there are two lines from the front distribution block to the rear. A conventional bleed only bleeds the primary line, not the bypass. So you simulate a front brake failure by opening a front bleeder. There's no guarantee that's your problem, but there is a prescribed way to bleed MJ brakes, and if you haven't properly bled the bypass circuit you haven't bled the system. If it works, you're good to go and you've learned something. If it doesn't work, all you've lost is a half hour and a partial can of brake fluid. IMHO that's better than throwing parts at it and finding out the new parts didn't solve the problem.

So I bought a new master and bled all brakes... Problem still presists. I tried doing that procedure you told me but I don't understand it... If I bled the brakes with a front caliper bleeder valve open then it'll just suck air into the system!