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Everything posted by Dando
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Before I switched to the floor shift I had some problems with this too. I ended up swapping the transmission side bracket with one for a floor shift while still using the column shift cable and column. I routed mine over the booster. To be honest it was never perfect, but I'm no perfectionist. After the cable broke an hour from home on a construction site I promptly swapped to floor shift, I'm sure you probably want to stay column though.
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Renix intake manifold heat shield
Dando replied to DirtyComanche's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I'm in cleveland oh, we get both below freezing and over 100*. No hood vents. As mentioned I did tie the wire loom up higher to make sure it stays away from the manifold. I do have manual control of my aux fan. And I have also swapped from closed to open cooling, doubt that really makes a difference. -
Renix intake manifold heat shield
Dando replied to DirtyComanche's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I have also had mine removed for almost a year with no apparent issues. -
TCU fuse under passenger dash?
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Egr tube won't align after new manifold
Dando replied to xjustinx's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I found in alittle bit easier to thread the tube into the exhaust manifold first then pulled on it pretty good to bend it to fit the intake -
Thanks, while at the yard this morning I found a 95 to pull the cable off of. I looked at a few 97+ xjs and they all seem to be the same from what I could see
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Quick question. I am going to the junkyard today in a few hours. They only have one xj that is below a 1995. Will the shift cable be the same on a 97+ xj?
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Judging by the photo it looks like I should still the shifter cable hole below this hole that has electics running through it. Can anyone confirm this?
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Well I guess I am going to end up drilling that hole in the body. I'm hesitant to drill the hole and have it end up incorrect. I know I asked before but is it possible to drill out this hole from inside the cabin withouth disassembling the dash etc? I really don't have the available time to take this that far (ie dash removal)
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If I put it near the firewall it seems way too bent to work properly. I am hooking it up to a floor shift. And it's not melting because this only happens when the truck is very very cold, under 30* out cold. And I know this is hard to see but in the top left of the pic you can see how the cable pushed out at the shifter side.
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I did not run the cable that way, I found the longer cable for the floor shift and used it instead. And yes this isn't the first cable I have broken
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I would think so, but I'm not sure. I am using pioneer pn ca-1176. It exits the firewall up near where a manual clutch master cylinder would be then goes over my brake booster and then down the tunnel area to the transmission.
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When cold outside my shifter has been hard to pull out of park and through the ranges, prnd. If you let it idle and warm up then it is fine. Well alittle bit ago now I went to move it in a hurry and didn't wait for the truck to warm up. The cable broke inside the cab, now I'm screwed waiting on the part stores to get a new one in. What is causing this? This isn't the first time this has happened to me with this truck either .
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Not mine but my brothers worst failure. Happened Christmas morning in cleveland. No body hurt and I was close by to go help him. Crazy though.
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Thank you, I have already ordered one and I'm waiting for it to arrive. Lesson learned
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through this entire process I never replaced the intake manifold gasket, I reinstalled the one for over a year ago now, should I have replaced it? Do they always need replaced after manifold removal?
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So last week I was driving on the freeway and the jeep overheated, stuck thermostat. (1990 MJ with 4.0 aw4 231) I blew the head gasket in the process. I replaced the head gasket and put it all back together. Had what seemed like an intake manifold leak and I tried to redo that Saturday. Now it idles at the right rpm, but it just drives like $#!&. Won't come out of first gear, lack of power, sounds like there is an exhaust leak but I can't find it. What can cause all these issues? What did I do wrong? Truck was finally starting to run great before the head gasket. I am broken down currently at a job site for work, need to figure this out please please any help is appreciated
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Built a headache rack for the truck, your thoughts?
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So I spoke to soon, this issue came back. Now I am fine as long as I only drive on city streets, but if I get on the highway the bolts loosen themselves again. I have tried loctite, lock washers, new bolts, and all three at once too. I can't get these bolts to stay in place. I'm guessing I have a vibration problem somewhere else that is causing these things to come loose. I can't find any other loose bolts. What can I look for? I really want to get this fixed before winter so my girlfriend can drive it on bad snow days. Any ideas?
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I have been dropping the crossmember and lowering the engine/trans combo to get at the bolts using my longer extensions. Works pretty well. I can also get to the passenger side bolt with a wrench from the engine compartment. I used a new bottle of loctite Sunday and haven't had to try the lock washers yet as this seems to be working fine so far. Since Sunday night I've put on over 100miles and no problems yet, truck is a pleasure to drive again.
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Trackbar stock length ?
Dando replied to 1992EliminatorSWB4x4's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I can't really help you with the length off hand. I have always changed them with the wheels still on the ground. I did it while having the truck up on a lift one time and once I removed the old trackbar the axle shifted and it was a real pain getting the axle to shift back to get the new one back in -
It's hard for me to tell you how tight I am actually torqueing them down, i can't fit my torque wrench in the spot underneath where I am working. It's pretty tight though. I retorqued them this am now and we will see what happens today on my way to work, guess I'll try washers and lock washers tonight if it doesn't hold today.
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Motor mounts and trans mount are all new. Lower bolts are tight. Upper bolts have disappeared during the 4wd swap over a year ago now and currently I am replacing them with 3/8 - 16 x 1.75 bolts.
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Took the truck for a test drive again after letting the locktight set for over 12hrs. Bolts loosened up again. Seriously what can I do? I'm not sure that a lock washer will work being the bolts are backing out of the block. Any ideas? Please help I need to fix this before work tomorrow
